3rd Gen Sway Bar Quick Disconnects?

Only big tip is.... If you take them rock crawling, don't forget to unpin them. It's a shit load of force and I messed mine up doing it. They replaced them immediately though.

I actually have now decided to just run no sway, with kings and 700LB springs.

 

How did they get messed up? I'm assuming the bolts bent or something?

 

Let me see if I can dig out a picture, no bending and still totally functional, just caused clicking noises.

 

Is this fixed by simply adding the bar back and waiting? Also, is grabbing a beer necessary or would another drink like kombucha work?

Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to save money on a wrecker if possible.

 

100% my fault, I was abusing the shit out of it at the time. But, definitely don’t be me.

 

I have not had that happen to me. What happened again? You left the pins in?

 

Left the pins in and went crawling. But I mean like aggressive crawling. Dragging my sliders over shit, getting high centered on purpose, trying to get stuck on boulders. Company also said they had never seen that before.

 

I guess that makes sense. I’ve left pins in my Tj when I had one, and deformed it. Never bent it though. If you were going that hard, that would make sense.

 

What's your suspension setup? Long travel?

Even crawling, bashing, etc, I'd expect to be able to take one side to full droop and the other to full compression without any issue so long as the joints have enough articulation and load rating. The force through the joints is a function of travel and shouldn't be very rate-sensitive. Meaning what's rough on the struts, BJs, etc. isn't necessarily rough on those links... Seems odd to me.

 

I was under the impression he fell on the pin while they were pulled out.

 

Ah maybe. I thought he meant he left the bar connected, with the pins in, as you would for street driving.

 

Wow.

IMHO, that is not a good design. The nylok side of a nut really isn't designed to be a load resisting element. I do get why they wanted them oriented that way, but it is just not right.

It would have been smarter for the vendor to just add a spacer on either side of those hiem joints to get the proper clearance.

Nothing that you are able to do should cause damage like that.

 

On a side note, if anyone is waiting for theirs and has access to an RTI ramp…you should throw up some numbers. Just for the sake of information.

 

That was just with the OEM Pro Fox's with Revtec spacer.

Yep just the bar still connected, I didn't actually impact the pin or anything like that.

That is definitely a fair point. It could probably be improved upon, even if they had to use a Titanium nut. I know Pro-Bolt makes Titanium ones.

 

A thinner nut won't gain much there. I think a spacer is about hte only thing?

 

Not thinner, stronger, to keep them from wearing down, then pushing into the other piece.

 

Stronger is not the problem. Fragging the hiem is.

 

Yea you ain't wrong.

 

Reviving this thread. How is everyone’s holding up? On a stock Trd off road will this give me a bit more articulation or should I wait for upgrades suspension?

 

Note that with a lift, the front suspension does not get more articulation. Talking in generalities, you are simply robbing some of the down travel from what is already there. You would need a Long Travel suspension that is wider overall to get more articulation because you are limited by CV angles.


For a practical example, look at a trophy truck. As far as lift height, they ride as low as possible and let down travel and dampening suck up the bumps.