New England B.S. Thread

I know rules are rules but Mike is a super stand up guy. I'll vouch for him!

 

I just don't want anyone getting in trouble, I know the rules are pretty strictly enforced

 

Anyone want a black 2nd or 3rd gen soft topper? I have the rear cross bar for both 2nd and 3rd gen beds. Black 5ft, slightly used has some mud on it. Pics coming, going for $450. Figured I'd ask in here first. I am heading up to Vermont this weekend via Springfield and up to Woodstock, back through southern NH and eastern MA.

PS - it is still on the truck, will be tagging admin on my FS post for a waiver since it will be easier to deliver as installed

 

Meh, only in the Meme thread

 

I am in the process of running new wire to relocate one of mine since the sun shines on it where it is now and throws off the temperature. I checked Mass Save for the heck of it and found this:



So, I ordered one for each zone. It makes the project a little more involved since two zones are used rarely and didn't have programmable thermostats or C wires, but at that price I'll buy more wire and redo it all.

I figured I'd pass the info along for some of you other Massachusetts people!

 

I'd be all over this if we weren't in the process of selling the house with an Open House this weekend.
We are deep into de-clutter mode and picking up a soft topper now would go over as well as a fart in a space suit.


Damn, timing is everything...

 

So in March I had stock "skid plates" and the sport chin splitter on the truck. Drove out to LA and back with that setup, 20.9 MPG for March about 7500 miles, a lot of it flat out west.

These past two weeks I was out East driving up and down the mountains in WV, KY, etc with no splitter and the full skid plate. 20.4 MPG.

So, for me that's enough numbers to say that chin splitter is useless and the skid plate has a negligible effect with the added weight



PS @JDUB-Fabrication I am looking to get a slim front bumper, replace the front chin on the truck since mine got shafted on the trails. Going to hit it with some self taps to hold it back on in the interim, but looking for something like this.


Hoop undecided, no light bar cutout (preferably, if there is one I'll get strobes I guess), and I'm 50/50 on the winch setup. Anyway, point being .... any chance you'd be on board to build it? If not, no big whoop, I can get one off the shelf. No desire to run a full ARB/plate bumper - keeping the truck somewhat normal, it's my daily driver and not woods-based-wheeling-centric for another 150k miles.

And while you're at it if you have a spare or make a spare oil change access door .... let me know I think mine is a little bent. I have to drop my skid in the next couple days actually, so can do an oil change that way but will try to take it off and see what happens.

TS wire is easy. I liked the Nest, but I didn't have luck with it. Had some issues, ran a C wire, still had issues so I went to the honeywell. Haven't had a problem since.

It doesn't have to go this weekend, let me know if you are actually interested and what your timing would be.

 

That's been my (very limited) experience as well. I've got @JDUB-Fabrication's skid, sliders, and a hefty lift and I can still get into the 20s if I behave and keep it around 60/65. Typically I'm at 18/19 unadjusted for 32s and I'm more than cool with those numbers considering. Oh and screw nest, every time we installed them at my old company in NY there would be problems eventually and we'd either have to replace them under warranty or just replace them with Honeywell

 

The first nest had issues with the back plate or something, then we got it fixed and ran a C wire just for the assurance. It ran for like 3 weeks (fortunately while we were on vacation in February it held temperature), then crapped the bed and stopped calling for heat.

Your truck is already a floating brick in air. Raising it and having the floating brick slightly taller won't change much. And all things considered, skids sliders etc adds about 250 lbs maybe 300 lbs. That's one of me in the passenger seat Yeah I pull around 18 winter/20 summer overall.

2020
Jan 17.4
Feb 19.0
Mar 19.3
Apr 19.1
May 20.6
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Jul 17.6
Aug 20.4
Sep 20.9
Oct 19.3
Nov 19.1
Dec 18.4
2021
Jan 17.8
Feb 17.0
Mar 20.9
Apr 19.6
May 20.8
Jun 19.5
Jul 21.2
Aug 20.6
Sep 19.6
Oct 20.4

 

weird you have to run a C wire, I was worried about that too but I have 3 nest e’s I got from massaves on a 2 wire R,W system.

 

That’s great news Zach! Best of luck to you!

 

I had to run one for the Honeywell I have now. My boiler aquastat and relay boxes don't have a 24v common (they're all from the mid 80s), so I ended up plugging a 24v transformer into an outlet near the boiler and splicing into the thermostat wire (this one had a five wire cable already, but only the red and white were connected) to send power up to the thermostat.

 

I’d love to build you a bumper like that, but in the end it would be more expensive than buying one from a company. I’m not on the level yet with my capabilities to bust out a bumper. But thanks for the shout! I’m hoping to have sliders available this spring. I also moved over to the Lexus GX platform so most of my energy is spent designing for that. (And renovating a house)

I do actually have some spare oil filter doors around I think, or I can cut one in 5 minutes. It’s also just a square of steel bent to 28 degrees. Not hard to create at home. Sounds like the trap door may need some structure behind it?

 

I had a issue with my Kenmore washer . Making a noise between wash and spin. Did some googling and found a website called repairclinic.com . Type appliance type and brand. Have model number handy . They list common problems with solutions and short videos. I got a OME part ( shift actuator) and fixed it myself for $55. A good site

 

Great info! The solution i found to the Kenmore washer was a Samsunv washer. The machine had other issues and it was 10 uears old. Even if i replaced tne pump, the door was bent because my oldest stepped on it when he was a baby and it has been a bitch to close ever since. Bit the bullet and bought a replacement.

 

Also checked into a GE microwave I had an issue with. Research showed it was door switches (2) and a button switch. For less than $100 with shipping a could have fixed it myself but I’m remodeling my kitchen so I didn’t bother. Simple too. Remove cover, remove one or two nuts holding control panel , set it aside and replace switches. Ran into a appliance repair person in Fitchburg and asked for his thoughts and he said replace them all while in there and your brand new. Still waiting on the results from someone I gave it to.



Washer part . Next to the belt cover

 

I wouldn't say THE trap door needs some structure. Just mine I think any of the other options with an oil door would have done the exact same - and I wouldn't have bought one without the door.

Seen some pictures of the lexus. Me likey. Unfortunately I already have sliders (now that you say it that reminds me I need to touch the paint on where I step to get in it got sandblasted over the past two weeks with being covered in dirt the whole time).

Cool beans - no worries. I'll find one - looked at a winch at HF and them bitches big. I don't think my needs warrant a winch, and honestly if the self tappers hold I think I'd benefit more from more skids than a bumper - so will probably wait it out a bit.

 

Hope everyone made it through the storm and no trucks got dinged up. Not too bad here in Chelmsford

 

Thanks Brian! Much appreciated

 

Had three transformers blow up on the next street over - that was fun to watch.... Power was in/out all night.

No downed trees on my property as I cut them all down earlier this spring but I have a ton of debris from the neighboring yards.


On a side note - I weighed the truck at a weight station...
Full Tank - fridge and toolbox in the back clocked in at 6560lbs (not entirely sure how accurate these things are)
According to my googling the base 4wd tacoma with a 4.0L clocks in at 4065lbs... which means I have 2495lbs of add-ons on the truck....