Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Whats your caster numbers? Your LCA could be pulled back on driver and pushed forward on pass side because of frame tweak.

 

I can’t find the sheet with the numbers. I didn’t tell them a parameter to meet but if I can remember right they are no more than 1. Would not having equal amounts of caster on each side cause an issue? I am still learning about alignment adjustments and how they effect the feel.

 

I'm no expert. But I know if when I adjusted my LCA for clearance before. If you put the rear bolt furthest inward, towards teh center of the truck. With the front furthest outwards, it will pus the tire back and loose clearance.

 

How are the other cab bolts? As in, is the cab twisted on the frame mounts?

 

When I did the cab mount relocation those bolts were straight. So far the only ones I have noticed were bent were the upper control arm bolt and this front cab mount bolt. The upper control arm one was pretty bad though. I had to cut the bolt then get a punch and go to town backing it out. Lower control arm bolts were fine and all
The new suspension bolted up fine. No fitment issues. I wonder if it’s the actual cab that’s twisted though.. could be. When I do lower pivots and the slide rack I think I’m going to take a closer look. I’m also doing the inner fenders will make new mounts for the front cab mounts because nothing lines up. I had to holesaw the core support just to get the bolt to line up with the mount.

 

I guess it’s possible it could be the knuckle too. I’ll probably replace the knuckles when I go LT anyways and see if it fixes it.

 

Just finished up and took it for a test drive. Much more solid. I have less than half the movement between the cab and bed and I’m not sure how to confirm this, but I could tell it was the cab mount bushings doing their job and not the frame. The ride inside was smooth and I could see my toolbox vibrating which it didn’t do before. I was unable to recreate the bounce/vibration at 40 mph. There was no reverb after hitting bumps either. So far it’s a success but I want to drive it for a while and get the full picture.

 

How far forward did you go under the cab?

 

I went to the carrier bearing crossmember. The TC skid I made hits in the middle of where the front section goes from boxed to open and the CB crossmember so I left it open. Might box it in, but can get to it later.

 

@81Trekker any intentions of doing engine/trans mounts? I have a pretty gnarly clunk up front right now that I’m quite sure is a bad motor mount. Trying to decide what I’m going to do.

 

Solid Offroad already does these well and reasonably priced as well

 

I’m a big fan of mine after my first trip with them, even just the motor mounts. I’ll add trans mount too eventually.

 

DMZ has them also
https://www.instagram.com/p/CVffVcNJWi6/

 

I’ll go DMZ before I go with the Solid ones. But was curious if Harry has put any thought into it. Truck is basically going to be all JD stuff anyways.

 

Looks like they copied Solid don't even have them up on the site yet and looks like only a 2wd trans mount.

 

Pretty positive the DMZ mounts were out before solid. Plus DMZ isn’t using part of the factory mount to make theirs like solid is.

 

My first real test of the new steering and pivot kit i put on my truck. Got sideways in that crack 3 times, twice the driver side fell in and i had to get some help getting out, the 3rd time the passenger side fell in and i drove out. Then i went to the dunes and had some fun. Everything held up great and my alignment is about the same as i started.

 

Yeah the DMZ ones have been out for a long time. Tim just sucks at updating his website. And he does have a 4wd trans mount. Ive been running it for about 3.5 years now and they make a huge improvement.

 

You running the motor mounts too?

 

Yeah motor and trans. Did them very quickly after going LT so it’s been like 3.5-4 years or something.