Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

OK, I'll leave it at that, not wanting to start any huge debates. I still find it strange that the breakage is at the bellhousing, which is in the middle of the 3 mounting points. But a weak link is a weak link. Usually when stress is transferred, it is transferred straight to the other mount location that has force applied to it, bypassing things that are rigid in the middle. In this case the force applied to trans or engine is the same as before, but the stress to the system is higher since there is no deflection to absorb the force and it turns out the mount areas are strong enough for that but not the middle rigid section that we would normally ignore as the lever itself in simple physics diagrams? Would you say I'm on the right track with that?

I guess I need to re-evaluate doing engine only, even though many many have done that. Perhaps new OEM engine mounts are better for me. Might have to take a look and see if there is any way to shim the stock ones to make them hold the engine a touch taller. Poly mounts and I haven't exactly had the best relationship, I absolutely hated the poly cab and core support mounts, glad those are gone, same with my old UCA pivots. Now I'm having issues with my aftermarket poly rack and pinion mounts. Rear spring poly bushings are noisy, wish I would have drilled/tapped the spring eye for a zerk fitting to grease those things when I did the install. But part of the rear spring noise is the springs themselves I'm sure.

Gahh.. anyway, thanks for the discussion.

 

Actually the weakest link is where the mount bolts to the block, the bellhousing is next in line. As far as greasing poly bushings, you have to use the specific grease for them or you run the risk of the grease softening the bushing.

 

I agree with you on the grease being specific. I use superlube, and have a grease gun of it to use for the LCA and other places that I convert to poly. My BAMF shackles have a grease fitting, same there. but can't use that lube for actual metal to metal either, for ujoints and such you need to use a conventional grease.

 

I think you are focusing mostly on the engine’s forces to the mounts, but also remember the displacement and forces that comes with frame flexing while off roading.

Also I got my engine and transmission mounts through Dirt Designs. Very nice pieces and the cost was pretty unbelievable in comparison to some of the numbers being thrown around here. Definitely worth a look. Only mention it because Harry states he has no interest in the mounts at this time.

 

Thanks, yes I wasn't thinking about how frame flex tied into it. but still there are 3 mount points and whether it is torque from engine, push from driveshaft, momentum from bumps, or frame flex, it is surprising that the break point is in the middle of them when going to a mount with less flex. but anything anytime can break. And someone said the mount area itself is a weak point too, makes more sense that it would break there to me.

I know your setup is pretty extreme, so probably not a good reference for how much added vibrations or negative effects from your opinion, the positive attributes were probably mandatory.

 

Nobody at any point said the bell housing was the weakest link. It’s just simply next in line. And a catastrophic failure at the block could lead to a failure at the bell housing.

 

OK thanks for the clarification. It was inferred.

Lol at people only running solid motor mounts... you have to do it all at the same time or the bellhousing is stressed big time

 

How does one get ahold of dirt designs? I’m not set on DMZ. So if there are other options out there I’d love to hear about them.

 

Inner fenders to complete the front end. Then time to redo the rear.

 

Looks sooooo good!

 

Steering cooler looks good sitting behind the grill. I need to order mine soon!

 

Damn that looks nice!!!! I can't wait to get all my stuff done. Too bad wider fenders and no winch front bumpers are useless on this coast. I've always liked the look of the "prerunner" type trucks.

 

Had the receiver built into the front bumper. For the worst case scenario needing a removable winch. I hope to never need it, but it was a thought for the possibility when going out solo.

 

Yeah that's just not really a good option with some of the crap we get into. Trying to get a winch out of the bed then trying to attach when the front end is buried or a bunch of other circumstances just doesn't sound fun to me.

 

So nasty man, nice work!

 

+4? How does it look in relation to the back? Are you running spacers? And did you go +3 or +6 fenders?

 

It is the +4 kit. I’m running advanced +4 flare.
It doesn’t look all that bad compared to the rear. I kept the 1.25 spacers I’m already running with the archive sua kit.

the wheels are 3.5 backspace. 16x8.

I’ll get a front to back comparison picture Later today when I get off work.

 

For reference here is the 4” kit with 1.25” wheel spacers and 3.5bs wheels

 

Yeah that doesn’t look as bad as I would think. Might have to go just jump on the +4 wagon.

 

And a +4 flare with 4.5BS no spacers. 315/75/16 tires 1.5 spacers on the rear