The Official Unofficial Super Pacific X1 Camper Thread

has anyone actually tested to see if a traditional canopy clamp would fit? My guess is they arent deep enough but maybe something already exists?

 

ill say that my camper comes loose and shifts almost every time i take it out on a simple trail. i know theyre working on it, but was wondering if anyone has any temporary solutions?

 

Wonder if you could use a flat piece of metal on the front of the camper and bolt it to the m6 bosses on the camper frame and the front bedrail with a tnut to give that mechanical connection? 2-3 of those and it might provide enough rigidity to keep everything in place.

 

The campers heaviest part id guess is the tent material itself and it’s all up top. Perhaps that’s the main culprit for sliding. However I haven’t had any sliding.

 

The two cubbies get in the way of mounting the T-Slots lower. Those T-slots are a super solid mounting point. It bolts into a stout U-channel on the other side of the bed. Together they also add rigidity to the composite bed. Relocating it really isn't a practical. I understand why people want to retain the T-slots, but I figure that the X1 has all kinds of mounting points and I also bolt things to the angle piece if I wanted. In fact, it will form a little shelf that I can drop a piece of plywood onto and make a shelf across the back of the camper.

 

It might work, but keep in mind that you need to allow the gaskets to compress. The clamps need to be snugged up from time to time as the gaskets creep or the plastic bed rail caps crush. The flat metal piece you propose should function to keep the camper from sliding forward, but still float up and down.

 

You must use your camper. I just tighten mine down. @nudavinci64 has second gen. I think he got 2-4 more Clamps.

 

After further review, I’m gonna order a third mount. These r tiny holding my 4k awning. Too risky. I think for a standard awning no problem. Free standing 4 or 6k with some wind it’d be flipping a coin.

 

Nothing a slot and a lock washer won’t fix to allow for adjustment.

 

I mounted 1-1/2" angles to replace the T-slot and they were very solid (1st picture). I haven't yet drilled the holes where the X1 clamp bolt would drop into. I also noticed that it wouldn't be too hard to mount the T-slots to the bottom of the angle to get the best of both worlds (2nd picture). I need to talk with SP to see what they think. I'm a bit worried that bolting the T-slot to the angle would create too much of a lever.

Incidentally, if you want to mount the T-slot to the angle, it would be best to use an angle with the vertical let 1-1/2" and the horizontal 1-1/4". Mine is 1.5 X 1.5" so the horizontal sticks out a bit too much.

 

Finally ditched the Dakars that were essentially doing nothing but barely keeping the truck up.

went with a custom or their XXHD (15-1600 over stock) 3” lift leafs.

obligatory mall shot since I just finished.

They need to settle some but off the back I can feel the rear move again. Not stiff at all. The truck is heavy but was still skeptical of going with that beefy of a pack. Paired with the hammer hangars and cross brace. The rear feels fantastic again and more. Even peppier a bit now that the rear isn’t crying every time I hit the gas ( not as much at least)

These will pair nicely with the new front setup I need to put on.

 

yup. I know how much the overhang causes our non-boxed frames flex and it’s essentially jumping on a trampoline for miles and miles and miles….

peruse GCI’s website. They make most of the clamps used by everyone that aren’t custom.

i forgot… the 2012 is the last year the beds had those cubbies above the wheel well. So 2013-2015 2nd gens could move it down.

good catch. I haven’t looked behind to see that there is reinforcement on the back side.

 

@nudavinci64 Looks good man. I'm curious to what my pack will do once the camper and rear bumper go on. They should handle the camper no problem, it wont be much different than my old Bed Rack setup.. but the added weight of the bumper will be the big change. I had my pack custom arched the first go around, I may end up doing the same if needed. Otherwise, I like that leaf pack option you went with.

@JasonLee I'm hoping they reach back out to me about it. so far.. nothing. I did let them know my concerns, so hopefully they are just in the background taking care of things. Sent them an email from my work computer too with some CAD screenshots.. work email looks a little more legit. lol

 

This is not a good indication to one waiting on his order to be completed…ie…me! Luckily it never seems to rain here in Colorado. Only snows.
Sorry to read about your leakage issues.

 

I spoke to Peter and Spenser about this at different times. I believe it was Peter who said there are drain holes in the aluminum extrusion, and that they could become clogged. I never looked, will check tomorrow. I didn’t get a satisfactory answer about the cause or cure, but I still think it’s a tight curve for the keder rail, and I see some daylight through the stitching in that area as well. Haven’t camped in rain since so I no addl real time experience.

 

I see daylight in most of the seams. For a water tight seal the seams are not stitched very tight. Also adding a seal along them like ambulance other higher end tents would have been nice especially at the price point

 

Getting ready to put solar up top and will have a 100 ah AGM house battery. I would like to know what those of you that have solar panels up top what you've done; flexible panel vs hard panels. I've been reading about the differences and from what I've read flexible panels seem to have issues with heat and lack of air flow since they are directly connected to the roof. Pictures of your set ups would be great. TIA

 

I’ve got my flex panel secured with industrial Velcro on the front 3 sides. Haven’t noticed any issues with air flow/heat.

 

I have 2 126 watt Sunflare panels attached with VHB tape that have held up great so far. Pretty penny for these but they are top of the line, walkable, super durable, they have bypass diodes so if one section of the panel is shaded, only the shaded portion will be affected not the rest of the panel like most of the other panels on the market.

 

@Clwrz nice setup!! I looked at those and they are definitely a pretty penny.... and definitely top of the line. Do you put long board/surfboards on top over them? Wondering how that would affect them even with the bypass diodes.