Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

If I ever crash my m3 I want to throw the motor in the Tacoma

 

They've had plastics issues for decades that's nothing new. The 4th gen f-bodies, c5 corvettes, etc all had issues too.

 

But there’s just no getting away from how good the LS platform is…

Pushrods booiiii

 

Less talking. More building. We need this thing done by Jan

 

Depends on what you’re ordering and who from. If you’re looking for Long travel stuff. Hit us up at YotaMafia.com we have OE king shocks in stock and less than 8 weeks on long travel stuff for these kits.

 

And YotaMafia has pallets and pallets of LT kits in transit as we speak!!!!

 

Do you guys have a storefront here in Alabama, too?

 

Yaaaaaas!

 

Ordered the lower pivots for my 3rd gen. Anyone have clearance issues pushing it out to the full 1”? I’m Running fox dsc in the front, wondering if I’ll have tie rod to shock interference? Looks close now in the factory location. Also has anyone run the pivots with JBA upper control arms with success? Running 35s so trying to get the most castor and clearance at the cab mount.

 

I’ve got an LSA from a CTS-V we stripped down a few years ago. I’d love to toss it in the Tacoma some day, I just question if it’s a little on the excessive side of things as it would definitely require a pretty stout drivetrain to support it.

 

You will definitely run into clearance issues with the inner fenders pushing them forward the full 1” But realistically, you’re going to have clearance issues no matter what with 35’s and untouched inners. Tie rod clearance should not be any issue.

 

The JBAs should work with the pivots as long as they are the standard, non-high caster arms. As I recall, using caster arms messes up alignment with the pivots when you push them forward.

 

Damn that blows, mine are high caster arms. Guess I’ll be ordering JD arms. Going to 35s is not cheap. Sh*t I’m like 5k into it now.

 

The ones that have gone to 35's and have done it correctly will say 5k is cheap. Most of those have probably over 5k in shocks/by-basses alone.

 

Yep all day this.
You just have plan and plan then you don't end up redoing a bunch and spending a lot of excess money. I know that's where a lot of my money went and if I would of planned better and been more patient it could of been cheaper.

 

This right here. 100%. I’ve spent a ton of senseless money and it sucks looking back at all of it. I wish I never would have waited to do long travel. What I’ve invested in mid travel would have almost paid for a full long travel.

 

I cheated going to 35’s. I went with 35x10.5R17 skinnies which made it way easier to fit than a 12.5” tire. A friend and I did the CMC so I saved some money there but overall it was more like trying to fit 285 33’s. I pulled the coil-overs, pulled the wheel well liners, cycled the the suspension at full lock and proceeded to hammer the inner fenders and firewall as little as I could to prevent rubbing. I adjusted the LCA’s all the way forward which helped a lot but it still took a few trips playing in the desert to get everything to self clearance. I know this wasn’t the “right way” to do it but I was able to step up to 35’s at stock ride height with the least amount of modification needed and probably the cheapest I could it.
Moving to 35x12.5 or 37x12.5 tires will require a lot more and that’s when I plan do it the “right way” since I expect my LCA tabs and inner fenders will be trashed by that point. It will also force me to address the steering so just going to do it all at once. Until then I’m just keeping spare parts and tools with me on the trails and keep an eye out for cracks in the inner fenders. All in time…and money.

35’s $2,432

• (5) Mount & Balance $145
• Alignment $85
• Fold Pinch Welds
• (5) 17”x7” TRD Pro Black Wheels $1,015
• Black Lug Nuts $55
• (5) Kenda Klever RT 35x10.5R17 Tires $1,097
• BAMF CMC Plates $15
• NoLoss Valve Caps $20

 

I should probably have done something similar but I don’t like 10.5 tires. I went with beadlock wheels at $450 a pop primarily to keep my balance good since I seem to spin my tires on the wheels when aired down too low. Kept having to rebalance my tires on the factory wheels. Also broke 3 valve stems which will be much harder on my new wheels. These yokahama mt are aggressive as hell compare to my Falken AT3 haha.

 

On the flip side, this can also be detrimental unless you truly know what you want in a build. For a lot of people, they just need to get out and use the truck and see what their needs are. It’s easy to get sucked up in just dropping money on expensive stuff because that’s what you think you need when in reality, that may not be the case at all. I know that happened to me a few times on this build.

 

Needs and wants are kinda one in the same when you’re building unless you’re trying to stay on a strict budget though. For instance I have no actual reason to do the full 3rd gen conversion, however I’m the type that wants to and since I’m doing fiberglass anyways why not? Sometimes it sucks to look at a build and regret not spending on something because it was a want more than a necessity. If you know what I mean.

Though, wants can turn into a dangerous worm hole. I want an ultra 4 type build. But I know that’s out of the realm of possibility at this time. Just gotta remain realistic with goals and all will be fine.