2006 Tacoma manual won't shift into gear

Hey Guys

I have a 2006 Tacoma 4.0L 6 speed. I push the clutch and try to put it into gear but prevents me from going into any gear. There is a slight pull from the truck a little forward when I try to put it into gear but it doesn't go into gear.

I have bled the slave cylinder and have no leaks. Please help I ran out of ideas.

I have put it into gear while the truck was off and tried to start it but the truck jerks forward, even with the clutch compressed.

What could it be?

Also the clutch worked perfectly fine the other day I have about 75,000 on my truck

 

Had a honda act just like. Ended up being the clutch even though it presses in. Even drove it to school that morning. When i left to go home, nothing.

 

Did you have any more description? Were your fibers completely worn? or?...

 

If I had to guess , i would say there is an issue with the pivot spring . The pivot spring is located inside the diaphram of the clutch pressure plate . A very common issue .
Here is an illustration i googled to help you understand .
http://automotiveenginemechanics.tpub.com/TM-9-8000/TM-9-80000448.htm

Time to get quotations on a clutch kit I am sorry to say

 

If you have tried bleeding it and it still has those symptoms, I would try bleeding it some more with a vacuum bleeder. Once you get air in that clutch line, it will exhibit the symptoms you have described. Basically, with the air in the line, your foot depressing the pedal can't build enough pressure you dis-engage the clutch and that's why you can't put it into gear when running and why it jerks forward when you start it in gear. Every clutch I've changed has been a bear to bleed, sometimes taking a couple days to have the bubbles work their way up.

Good luck, I know it's frustrating.

 

Never thought to ask but is there any play at the top of the clutch pedal ?
Can you grab the pedal with your hands and lift it up .....if you can , how much did it move ?

 

You can get an idea of if its the hydraulics or the clutch by having someone push the clutch pedal in and out while you watch the fork on the trans move. It may be hard to tell, but if it's way off, like not moving or moving very little it could point towards the problem. If it looks like its got the full range of movement then you're gonna have to go after the clutch.

 

The pedal had about a 1/4 inch play in it, I adjusted it and nothing. I think I will play it safe and start to take off the transmission, my bet is that it is time for a new basket spring or new clutch. I will take pics and let you guys know.

 

Does anybody think that it is the synchronous in the gearbox? I really hope I don't have to go into the gearbox

 

Pivot springs or the actual pivots inside the clutch pressure plate break all the time . The fact that the trans was shifting fine the other day indicates your synchros are good .
Price out a clutch kit and call a machine shop to have the flywheel machined back to flat and you should be good to go .

 

Well I dropped the tranny today and there you have it people. One of the springs in the clutch cracked and the plastic retainers flew out. These retainers got stuck between the clutch fiber and the fly wheel. In this process I snapped one stud on one of the down pipes.

 

How do you like that harbor freight transmission jack? I was thinking about getting one because I'm tired of balancing these on the floor jack. Did the plastic things score up your flywheel?

 

Harbor freight floor jack worked like a charm, best jack 90 bucks will get you. They didn't score it up but they kind of left a burn mark on the flywheel, you can kind of see it in the pic. Nothing a little bit of 400 grit sand paper and brake didn't take care tho. I will post after pics as soon as I get the new clutch. I ordered a exedy oem replacement, the ebay seller upgraded me to a AISIN premium kit because he didn't have a 6 speed clutch kit. What I found funny about this truck is that toyota wanted 480 for the "oem" which happens to be a AISIN clutch. Anyway for $280 I ended up getting a $380 clutch kit which happens to be a $480 kit at the stealership.

 

Well there you have it folks, tranny is going back up today.

 

Did you do all this without removing exhaust system or motor mounts? I have 2005 access cab 2 wheel drive?

 

You have to remove the cross over exhaust pipe get the transmission out but no I didn't remove the motor mounts. The motor mounts are not rigid, they have rubber pads. I found it easier to undo the two bolts on the top of the transmission first but lowering the transmission and tilting the engine back. Then you use about 4 ft of 1/2 extensions and hit those two bolts with an impact from behind you transmission. After you get those two, then undo the rest of the bolts while your transmission is level. Once you have your transmission unbolted, make sure it is level when you start to move it towards the rear of the truck.

Also the transmission jack from harbor freight is helpful.

 

You should get new exhaust gaskets and be prepared for breaking exhaust studs. I would recommend you heat up the rusty exhaust nuts to red hot before attempting to unbolt them

 

what's up guys, I have a 2019 tacoma and I am also experiencing this same issue. I have a little under 65k on the truck, and my clutch isn't slipping or anything. However it would not allow me to select gears while the vehicle was running but would allow gear selection in acc or key off. So I decided to see if putting the truck in 1st and then starting it with the clutch fully depressed and it made a horrible grinding noise after one crank. I waited 20Mins for a coworker to come give me a ride and when he arrived I explained to him what was going on and this time it allowed me to select a gear with the vehicle running... we are both automotive tech students and we are baffled. If I had a broken "pivot spring" could it "unwedge" itself? I stopped multiple places on my way home and havnt experienced the same problem since

 

That sounds like a failed slave or something. or you are low on fluid?

 

The fluid cor the clutch is fine and there are “no visual leaks”. This is the strangest thing, I’m on day two since the initial issue and it hasn’t done it since.