Rear Sag on New OEM TRD Lift

your lower coil seat is upside down.

 

Rubber bushings don’t slide, the deform over their entire range. If you tighten the bushing down when unloaded it ends up that the bushing is preloaded at ride height. An alignment can help (since they loosen some of the bolts) but I’m not sure they touch all the bushings.

this can also lead to a rough ride since the bushing is acting like a spring

 

It is not.

 

I have the same thing
Thought it could be my cap weighing it down but I suspect it isn't that.
The rear measures 1/2 inch lower from center of hub than the front.

 

I'll grab one but springs are seated nicely facing the rear. I'm in the top clip which is recommended for my cab.

I'm really looking for confirmation from other OEM TRD lift owners that there's a slight sag on this kit.

I'm 99.5% sure it's not the LCA bushings. I didn't crank them very tight probably only 40lbs. The alignment would have loosened both.

 

Thank you for offering to spend your Saturday taking your cap off and confirming for me. But seriously that's probably just your cap. I'm 1/2"+ on level ground w/ light tonneau cover.

 

Interesting. I never checked mine when I had the TRD lift kit installed by the dealership back in March. It has always looked level. I went out to the garage to measure and I'm exact at 7" front and back.

 

That helps. My stock tires were 7" in back 7 1/2" in the front. Going to go slam the brakes a bunch today and see what happens.

 

Like stated above the only reason Ive seen that the truck was sitting higher than it is supposed to in the front is due to the spring seat being installed upside down. Its a fairly common thing on this trd lift since they werent suppling directions with them. But without a pic of that area none of us can confirm. There is nothing to sag in the rear with the 1" solid block making up the lift.

 

It is not upside down. The front would be two inches higher if it was. Truck has 150 miles on it chalking it up to stiff sport springs. Waiting on my front Budbuilt to show up then hopefully the plates help settle it.

 

I am doubting that this is the result of Sport springs. If this was the case, people would be using the Sport srings as a cheap lift, but since guys with Sports have been installing take off Off-Road struts and shocks into their trucks since the 2016's came out and nobody has reported this anomaly, I don't see that it is the issue you are having.

You said that you didn't torque the bushings up too high before dropping it, but then mentions maybe 40ft-lbs... 40ft-lbs is enough to lock that bushing or sleeve into place and create bind when you drop the truck down onto the ground. As much as you don't want to loosen off everything and and retorque, if even one of the bushings is preloaded then you will see that bushing have a very short life. That is the primary reason for the need to torque with the weight on the suspension. To not preload the bushings and give them the longest service life as possible.

 

It's just a leveling kit. I have it on my truck, dealer installed. I also notice a perceived difference between the front and rear height. Thinking about the add a leaf vs old man emu heavy duty Dakar leaf packs, but it doesn't bother me enough to drop $700+ on a 1/4-1/2 inch difference (currently)... Yet. I'd rather make my next upgrade a GFC. Truck drives fine the way it is for now, and I don't tow.
Anyone have heavy duty leaf packs installed? Thoughts? Seems better than AAL, but pricier.

 

I really don't think it's the bushings. Alignment shop definitely loosened them my marks don't like up on any of them.

 

I had the Dakars on my old 2010 with 3in lift.
They are far superior to any block or aal.
If I ever take the blocks out I'll replace with Dakars.

 

Thank you for confirming this exist elsewhere on this kit. I think AAL is in my future.

 

You seem to be obsessed with the alignment shop and the lower control arm bushings. EVERY bushing that could possibly move when the suspension moves needs to be loosened and then re-torqued at ride height. The stock bushings don't pivot/turn they flex and need to torqued in a "neutral position."

Upper control arms
Lower control arms
Bottom strut mount
Sway bar at frame
Rear springs.... you shouldn't have to do these unless they were loosened

 

A few people have said it's because the LCAs were tightened in the air. Not sure how I am obsessed with this just replying to people who keep saying it's the LCA bushings and I don't think it is. They were torqued by my alignment shop at ride height.

Sway bars, lower strut mounts front/rear and u bolts were torqued at ride height. Only thing I didn't loosen or torque is the UCA.

I came here looking for someone who has the same kit to confirm their rear is lower. Someone with dealer installed kit confirmed it is and now this matter is settled.

 

Disconnect your swaybar on the ground, loosen the Swarbrick mounts, reconnect it to your struts and then retighten the mounts. A seized Swaybar can act as a torsion spring. See if that helps.

Otherwise it's something with your rear leaf packs.