BassAckwards' AWD Turbo 2TR-FE

Good evenin Bill!

Good evenin John, hope you're feeling better buddy

Yes that's correct, just a little hole near the very top and you're good to go. A bigger one will allow you to fill it up faster, but yes, i went with something small, i think around 1/8"

i really like how you set yours up with the tap at the very bottom of the tank. That should work great, and keeps it looking OEM too.

Howdy Rick, how you been man?

 

Livin' La Vida Turd Gen

 

Roberto,
Thanks for the idea‼️
I used a white nylon 6x6mm thumb screw from eBay / China… The tap was dirty but yes I drilled & taped the hole or my new vent hole.

I also finely got some of the missing hardware from SOS/Tundra Racing to finish up the brakes. Tom a great guy sent out the few missing bolts priority mail. Just need to be nice to the better half so I can talk her into pumping the brake pedal to bleed. Then need to install the DJM UCA’s, Viking DIY coilover’s then have the DJM rear notches welded in.
Still waiting on the F-ing Snow water/meth filter to get here so I can plumb the system. Dyno Comp (tuner) wants to wire & retune the Supercharger. My stereo guy & I will probably wire most of it. I’m kind of anal about running wire. To much $$ in this POS to let it burn!

 

I see that! You digging the m/t in the new truck? And what's your take on the third gen overall?

Looking good sir! Keep us posted on how that dyno session goes, i am very interested in seeing those results

 

I’ve been working on a little upgrade for the URD SC kit recently to hold me over until I go turbo. I’m gonna call this the stage 4 kit because it drops the pulley two sizes from the stage 2 80mm to a 70mm. Stage 1 is 85mm for reference.

First thing i noticed, was that there is an issue with the belt being too long while using the URD stage 2 idler in the middle position on the SC bracket & the 70mm pulley. I tried moving the right idler down to the left position but there was no clearance between the two idlers for the belt. So my solution was to go back to the stage 1 idler and move that to the lower left position on the SC bracket. That got the belt where it needed to be slightly longer and that eliminated the slight rattling I was getting on the tensioner stop when taking off at low rpm.

After I got that sorted I added an 80lb 5th injector to replace the 61lb that came with the URD kit. I also dropped the redline to 5200rpms to respect the 10.5k max rpm of the C30-94. As an added safety precaution, i turned on the ignition cut to pull spark at 16lbs since the tables for the tune run out at 15lbs. I wasn’t sure how much it was going to make and i have read another thread on here that someone running this size pushes around 20lbs. Mine looks like if i left the redline at 5500 it would make around 15 peak. Right now with the 70mm and 5200 redline, it is peaking around 13-13.5lbs which is about 1-1.5lbs more than on the 80mm pulley and 5500 redline. However, it comes into boost much sooner. Part throttle and down low, it pulls much better, and required a lot more fueling in those areas as a result. I am starting to get everything dialed in pretty well now, but there will be a few more fine tuning things necessary to get it where i want. Ill be taking the laptop to work with me this week so i can log on the way and get it a little more refined.

As for the gas mileage side of things, this was my first longer trip with the new 285/75/17 tires and the combined mileage for the weekend was 12.75mpg over around 750 miles of travel. Prior to this on my old 33s and 80mm pulley, it would get around 13 hwy maybe a little less, so it doesnt seem to have been affected much.

 

Good evenin John! Enjoy that short week brother

 

Finally getting the tune pretty dialed as far as fueling. Made some adjustments to cruising AFR on the primary injectors today but that was very minor. Also pretty much finished adding fuel with the 5th on the top end/under high load and now I’m very slowly dialing it back to get AFRs from the low 10s in some places to the mid 10s to be on the safe side. Saw the AEM boost gauge hit 13lbs on my way home today and it always reads about 1lb lower than the gauge on my snow water methanol controller. I was mainly after more torque with this smaller pulley, and I think we’ve achieved that. Here’s a video from today, it feels like the truck gets moving much better in the mid range now. Also I went back to a stock Toyota filter a day or so ago. My aFe one seems to be letting more dust by than I’d like, so I’ll probably stick with the OEM filters going forward
https://youtu.be/g5KaNaDJx0s

 

Such a cute little rev limiter... I can't wait to see what it sounds like singing out to 7-8k

 

Haha yeah I know the rev limiter is pretty weak on mine! I would love to use all of the 7k on the gauge.

I’m interested in hearing that as well! Should be music to our ears

 

@BassAckwards,
I know most everyone here is dead set but check this out. (My bucket list)

For a total cost of $2,400, the 4.8L Vortec made 554hp. (Oh plus this was @ 7k rpm’s)

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/cheap-ls-engine-build/

 

Good morning John

That is impressive and you can’t beat the sound of a v8. I was considering an LS swap in the past but my 2TR finally started cooperating lol

 

You as well man!

 

Good morning Robert

 

Good mornin Bill!

Good mornin John!

y’all make it a great one

 

Just finished up changing the plugs. These have about 20k on them. Looks like it’s running a little rich but does anyone see any issues other than that? I am no good at reading plugs

 

Better rich than lean with the whole boost thing.

Are you running a colder plug?

 

I definitely agree. I am running two steps colder than stock

 

Unless you can lean it out a bit without hurting anything, I'd just leave it.

You running 93 octane?

 

Yes 93 octane with water methanol as well under boost. Thanks for chiming in, I was hoping everything looked alright. I will leave it alone for now

 

Good morning Robert. Hope you have a relaxing day brother