SOLVED over heated and now wont start

Hello im new to toyotas and could really use your guys/ladies help .


After giving someone a jump start they must have set there wrench down in my engine compartment because a few miles down the road my 95 Tacoma (97 2.7 4cylinder with 54,000 motor) 4x4 manual started to get hot so i immediately pulled over and checked under the hood to find out that something got stuck between the fan and brand new radiator and created a large hole in the shape of a out line of a circle right where the fan is.

What also happened that i did not notice until a little bit lator was the belt that connects the alterator and water pump also got shreded.

So after letting it completly cool down i filled up the radiator with as much water as it would take and started towards home about 5 miles away. As soon as it started to get hot but before it topped out on the guage i pulled over again. Let it cool down completely (20-30min) put was about to put some more water in until i noticed the broken belt. At this time i know i should have not tried driving it again but i unfortounatly the place i pulled off the highway was a very dangerous area and not possible for me to leave my truck and expect to be able to come get it later nor did i have anyone that would come pick me up so id be stranded in this gang area.

So i started driving the 2-3 miles home. At this point the truck was running pretty crappy, i expect it was because the alternator was no longer working because the headlights were also dimmimg pretty bad. I made it till 1 block from my house and had to go up the small hill i live on and thats where and when it topped out on the guage and in the seconds i was parking steam or smoke started flowing out from under the hood. I turned it off and thats where it sat for next 2 months till yesterday when i put in a new belt and radiator ( I also took advantage of being able to get at the engine and washed and sprayed it down very good because it had been very greasy from b4 i bought it. I plugged and wrapped a bag over the air intake/filter. The rest of the engine got a good soaking tho)

Another possible mistake i may have made was when putting the fan back on i accidently turned counter clock wise a 1/8 of a turn then tried to turn it back to where it was before.
UPDATE
Now when i try to start it it starts and runs for 2 or 3 seconds and sounds fine and i can rev it up and sounds and feels fine then it dies. I checked the oil cap and dip stick and there was nothing milky looking.
There is 54,000 only on motor

So long story short ....
*over heated with steam/smoke breifly from under hood.

-waterpump and alternator not working due to belt

-soaked engine with hose except air filter

-sat for 2 months.



AND NOW...

Starts up and runs for 2-3 seconds then dies

-no yet seen milky oil.


Any help i truely appreciate, im praying its now a blown head gasket or something similarly as bad

 

Pull

 

Thanks for the reply.

UPDATE
I just charged up the battery about halfway so far at the moment ( i had been jump starting it yesterday)

Now it definilty starts and runs for about 2 or 3 seconds and sounds normal before it dies. I can rev it up for a second and it sounds and feels like normal THEN DIES.....

Any chance its cuz of air in radiator?

 

Ill do the compression test in morning if i can get a tester by then

 

This could be way off but did you put new gas in? Maybe it has degraded over the two months

 

What about the alternator? Mebbe Two Thumbs erred on jumping technique?
Provide a pix of wrench damage?

 

It sounds more like the fuel pump is cutting out. The fuel pump will be on whenever you are cranking the engine. Once you stop cranking then the fuel pump only stays on if the ECU is receiving a signal back that the spark plugs are firing. This second part may not be working correctly. You build up fuel pressure when cranking and starting but after a couple seconds of running the fuel pressure drops. The fuel pump relay is called the circuit opening relay, and I have no explanation why it would stop working based on your story.

The alternator or radiator should/would not cause what you are experiencing.

Do you have any sort of security system on the truck that may have a feature that cuts the engine or fuel supply? I kind of remember someone having a similar problem with the engine dying after a few seconds related to this, so search for similar problems.

 

Im gonna go with cracked head, but if lucky only a gasket. This is the bad about these engines you never want to get them hot.........speaking from experience!!!!

 

I had a chevy van that would do the same thing and it was the security system failing. It would crank and then immediately shut down, it was loosing security code. I bypassed the security system and never had a problem again. Look up on YouTube for how to bypass system.

 

The darn Mass air flow sensor was bad. Maybe probably just a coincidence it happened at the same time but now it runs and Idols without dying

 

I haven't got the nerve yet to pull away from my parking spot yet. Mainly because i didnt have time but also wanted to check with you guys incase there is something I need or should do first.
Anything i should check or do first before putting it in gear? I dont want to mess anything up especially now that my hopes are way up that the engine may not be toast. Im fairly sharp but dont know very much about working on engines.

So the current status is...
Truck starts and idles perfectly fine.. and does not die.
No steam or smoke coming from anywhere
No weird noises that i can tell.
Temp hasnt shot up (Ive let it idle about 10 min)
No milky type oil that ive found yet and coolant in radiator has stayed the red color i put in.

 

Just to be sure I would do a chemical block test on it and go from there.

 

How do you go about doing that?

 

Could anyone tell me just how much bubbling or bubbles in the radiator with the cap off truck running is a bad sign? Is it the bubbling wanting to come up n out the radiator i should be looking for or actual bubbles coming up?

And how much water coming out the tail pipe? I have about 1 drop being forced out ever 1 or 2 seconds. And its a cold drizzeling out day

 

Also think i should note that there is no check engine light on. And i know it works

 

You can buy or rent a test kit from your local auto store. Here's Kilmer, didn't watch the video but it's really simple.
https://youtu.be/v0U8Iyf0kk4

 

You shouldn't have any bubbles unless you recently changed the fluid and didn't bleed it out all the way. As to the tailpipe it's hard to tell since condensation drains out of the tailpipe anyway.

Your main confirmation as to a blown head gasket would be the chemical block test or pressurizing the coolant system and checking for leaks at various places including inside the cylinders or a leak down test. The chemical test will be the easiest by far and the least intrusive.

 

A head gasket failure wouldn't necessarily set a check engine light or codes except for a misfire on startup due to coolant in the cylinder.

 

I just read your thread and some people wanted you to tare into the motor first, always start with the most basic things first, you won’t have a clue what’s going on if you tare into the motor, fuel, spark, compression, electrical and vacuum, all this can be done without taking to much apart!