Can't get tie rod separated from lower ball joint.

I tried replacing my LBJs this weekend, but I could not get the passenger side tie rod to pop out of the ball joint. I tried heat, lube, and pounded on it with a 3 lb hammer but it wouldn't pop out. The castle nut was also on there very tight; I had to use a metal fence post over my breaker bar to break it loose and even then it took a good amount of effort.

Any tips for getting it out? Is there a tool I can buy/rent to help?

Thanks.

 

A Pitman puller is what I use, usually makes quick work of it. They're like $20 at most stores, I think AutoZone will rent them out too

 

This. Just buy one, they are super useful for all kinds of other projects as well.

 

I put pressure on the ball joint walk away in most cases it is held on by the finger tight nut .

Putting one big dent in Moms car was enough.

 

Yup having one or two of those on hand is always a good idea. That with some heat if needed should do the trick.

 

Thanks. That's what I used to get the LBJ out of the control arm. I guess it's the same process, just pulling up on the lbj and pushing the tie rod bolt down? Is there much danger of damaging the boot on the tie rod?

 

Yeah you could mangle the boot if you're not careful, but it should be doable. The one thing that will for sure ruin the boot is a pickle fork, don't use one of those if you want to reuse the tie rod

 

I'll also add, that with the puller, you should keep the castle nut on there and thread it so it sits flush with the post, and insert a small flat piece of steel between the bearing point of the puller and the tie-rod/castle nut.

I've seen the post deform a bit and not allow a cotter pin back through the little hole. So the flat piece of steel prevents that. Keeping the castle nut on there just increased the bearing surface.

 

some whacks to the side of the ball joint around the taper bolt and the bottom of the bolt with the castle nut loose. I've never needed more than that.

 

When I do Lower Ball Joints I always remove the tie rods first then pop out the ball joint.

Living in the desert OP you have it much easier then in The great Liquid brine belt.

 

This is good advice. You can deform the tie rod end if you crank down on the Pittman puller enough.

 

Been there, done that. I had trouble getting the pitman puller I rented from autozone to fit properly, which contributed to my TRE woes. Anyone have a link to one that is known to fit well, but doesn't require purchasing an expensive kit?

 

I got mine from Harbor Freight for $15 or so, but I do remember it barely fit the tie rods. Just took some time to get it on just right, once I did it worked to pop them loose pretty easily.

 

You can rent tools from the parts store for free w/ deposit.

 

IDK.. I have a couple of them. one fits the tie rod and the lower ball joint, and another was chopped up a little bit to fit the upper control arm to remove the upper ball joint...

 

Thanks. The one I used didn't want to fit, but maybe I gave up too easily. I think for the application, some careful grinding or filing (not too much) of the tool to enhance fit might be the way to go.

 

Yeah, as stated, the rental didn't fit.

 

I don't know what your budget is, but if $19-$30 is breaking the project bank you may need to ebay some stuff!! jk the cheapo ones work great, just make sure you are hitting the TRE with a hammer while using the puller.

 

Rent a pulley puller instead.

 

Good suggestion. That definitely could have been made to work.