What octane fuel do you run in your 1GR-FE?

An engine fires the spark before the piston reaches TDC as there is a delay between firing the spark and actual full combustion of the gas air mix. The idea is fire the spark and by the time the combustion starts the piston is past TDC and the combustion will push the piston down. Advancing the timing means the spark fires earlier and therefore the piston is closer to TDC which means there's more pressure. Down sides can be increased chance of pre detonation, over heating, loss of torque.

 

I have a charger so I run at least 91. Love 93 if I can find it, but not a lot of places around me have 93. (At least that I’ve found) I have always been kind of particular though, higher octane- higher cost obviously, but at least in my opinion I feel my vehicles run better and will even fetch me a little better MPG. (Maybe it’s just me though, strictly my opinion)

 

My '06 1GR-FE natural aspirated engine gets fed a steady diet of E10 with 87 octane.

It runs fine to give 19-20 mpg and all the power I need when I need power.

I'm not able to justify the extra cost for a perceived butt dyno boost.

I'll eat chili for a couple days to give my butt a boost.

Save your $$, just burn the E10 87. Give the truck a little time to adjust and don't be afraid to change your sparkplugs at the 30 kmile interval. A tip, don't buy into the iridium plugs, the 1GR-FE is happy with basic copper Densos.

 

higher octane gas does NOT provide more power

higher octane will handle & sustain more load without pinging & knocking

that sounds like more power....................its not

no less it depends on driving environs

bump/grind slow commutes are a waste o time & money

yet if thats all U have thats what U got

at its best on hiway running in sweet spot......................>No difference out tail pipe

 

Older cars yes, new cars that can adjust timing can take advantage of higher octane.

In the 1grfe it's probably only a few hp since the compression is low but I bet it's enough to feel.

FYI I've run 87 since I bought my truck as I know it's not going to win any drag races and I don't tow.

 

IIRC this is in the manual : Output is 236 hp (176 kW) at 5200 rpm with 266 lb·ft (361 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm on 87 octane, and 239 hp (178 kW) at 5200 rpm with 278 lb·ft (377 N·m) at 3700 rpm on 91 octane.



4hp and 12 trq w super per this:

Toyota GR Engine - 1GR-FE
The 1GR-FE is the 4.0 L (3956 cc) version, designed for longitudinal mounting in RWD and 4WD pickup applications. It has a 94 mm bore and a stroke of 95 mm. Output is 236 hp (176 kW) at 5200 rpm with 266 lb·ft (361 N·m) of torque at 4000 rpm on 87 octane, and 239 hp (178 kW) at 5200 rpm with 278 lb·ft (377 N·m) at 3700 rpm on 91 octane. This engine features Toyota's VVT-i, variable valve timing system on the intake cam and a compression ratio of 10.0:1. An updated version of this engine features Dual VVT-i, increasing output to 254 hp (189 kW) and 270 lb·ft (366 N·m) on 87 octane and 285 hp (213 kW) and 289 lb·ft (392 N·m) on 91 octane. Inside, the 1GR uses a "taper-squish" combustion chamber design with matching pistons to improve anti-knocking and engine performance, while also improving intake and fuel efficiency. Toyota adopted a siamese-type intake port, which reduces the surface area of the port walls and prevents fuel from adhering to such walls. This engine has special cast-iron cylinder liners cast into the block, which are a spiny type to improve adhesion between the liner and cylinder block. With these special thin liners it is impossible to bore the block. In the event of cylinder wall damage (scoring, deep protrusions, etc.), the entire cylinder block must be replaced. For increased block rigidity, the 1GR also receives a high temperature plastic insulator/protector, which fills the empty space between the outer portion of the cylinders and block material common to open deck engines. For increased cooling efficiency, the 1GR employs water passages between the bores of the engine. There are two such passages for each bank for a total of four. This reduces cylinder hot-spotting and keeps combustion chamber temperatures more uniform.

 

Engine Masters did a fuel test in a naturally aspirated LS3. They used 87 and 91 pump gas, but also 110 and 116 "race gas," and E85. These are the dyno numbers:



E85 showed the only gains, and they weren't much across the (Q & HP) curves. All other fuels showed no power gains. This was a engine on a dyno stand, in a cool building with cool air, so they were able to use 87 pump gas without much risk for detonation. Put that engine in a vehicle, on a hot day, and it may have gotten detonation.

Once again, this was on a naturally aspirated engine, not a boosted engine.

 

Was the engine retuned for each fuel, or was the same tune run for all the fuel sources? Because those results aren't surprising at all if the engine was running the 87 tune for all runs.

I did testing on my truck a few years back comparing fuel mileage between 87 and 92. I tend to get about 1.5-2mpg better mileage with the premium in my truck. However, the price differential between 87 and 92 needs to be 25 cents or less for that to make financial sense, and it's currently more like 50-60 cents more.

 

Hence and thusly, I’m impressed

 

89 did nothing for me except increase my fuel bill. Ran it for a year. I throw a bottle of fuel system cleaner every three months and run 87 top tier fuel.

 

Going from your lowest octane fuel to your highest will set you back somewhere between $150-$200 a year. On the high end, that's an extra $16.67 a month, or between 1 and 1.5 top shelf margaritas at your favorite Mexican restaurant.

Ballpark figures. Like the cost of your favorite top shelf margarita, your fuel prices may fluctuate a bit.

 

$$$$ & butt dyno wise its a starbux conversation

brand to brand

station to station

region to region

typical driving norms no appreciable outcome

it IS better to use up rated gasoline If its reasonable to anticipate

higher engine loads resulting from towing or terrain...................for most an occasional endeavor

 

87 in both my 06 and 14. I do buy top tier gas however. Google is your friend.

 

87 is what I use

Can higher octane help?
Yes, maybe, some times.

 

higher octane is to mitigate issues ........not gsin power

look at example to see where gains were

i never redline my engine = NO Gain

high loads........towing steepgrades

high octane allows an engine to work its BEST

NO pinging..........No Detonation

 

I used premium fuel mainly because my butt dyno can feel a difference. I get a little bit better gas mileage and don’t have to push the gas pedal down as much when I’m taking off from a red light.

My last 2 cars were newer muscle/sports cars that could do 0-60 in the 3.9-4.5 second range. So anything to make this truck a little more peppy is good with me.

 

Get your injectors cleaned/refurb, I did recently and it made a big difference. Even using system cleaner regularly, after 15 years and 180k miles the injectors were in horrible shape.

 

I’ve always ran Super unleaded in my v6 but that’s just me since it burns cleaner, my father in law has the same truck but a year newer 2012 and he swore by Regular 87 octane and actually got “pissy” with me when I told him he should run a better grade & atleast midgrade and told me “ITS FINE!!” Lol. Then one day he came by with his truck barely running and really rough ideling snd it ended up his plugs were SHOT from the crappy fuel and mine were still fine (though I changed them after this just because) but yeah to mske my reply even longer than necessary Id say just run atleast midgrade or go CRAZY and run nothing but super unleaded and you’ll be good. PS I also put a bottle of Lucas fuel system treatment in my tank once a month just to be safe. Cheers!!

 

Couldn’t agree with ya more. I’ve always ran Super unleaded in my truck since day “1” and synthetic oil so yeah.

 

YIKES! 100 bux to fill the tank.