TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

I dunno what pulley this is, or the status of how it fit on the crank snout, or how tight the bolt was or wasn't. But I don't think that if the design was the 'same' that this would have happened. A stock steel pulley may have broken, but it wouldn't have deformed like that. It looks aluminum to me, with a steel sleeve for the seal to ride against. That is not the same composition as stock. And even if this were a steel pulley, I'd still argue that it isn't as hard as it needs to be to withstand the stress put on it...

From my untrained eye, it also doesn't look like the bolt backed out and this pulley shifted outward and was run that way, and he caught it right before it literally fell off all together. To me it looks like that is how much the key engages, and it hammered itself that way with the bolt mostly tight, or at least not loose enough to cause the pulley to move outward and cause belt misalignment.

I'd be happy to admit diagnosing it wrong, perhaps the owner can clarify those things we seem to disagree on.

 

What does the other side of pulley look like? I see some annodized rubbed off but only in one section. if it was rattling around from being loose I would have expected more wear all over mounting surface. Could it have gotten pressed in crooked and crushed the pulley when installed? It may have locked itself in place and maybe recently got unlocked by turning crank/pulley backwards for a belt change?

 

I have personally removed and installed both the NST setup here and the TRD S/C crank pulley. Neither one is a press on, the crank bolt sits flush against the end of the crank keeping the pulley fully engaged the entire length of the key way. Sucks either way, but nothing here seems to me like an equipment failure. I am definitely going to recheck my torque on mine when I go through the header studs.

 

It's the main crank pulley behind the s/c pulley. my understanding is the key is more of an alignment rather than taking on the brunt force of rotation. If Toyota was worried about the key strength I think it would extend further into the pulley. Our s/c pulley don't have keys or even a bolt to hold them on and they seem fine?

 

The S/C pulleys are aligned with a solid steel pin and the NST had a rolled pin that came with them. I think the S/C pulley aligned onto the pin if I remember correctly but there is definitely a lock to the main pulley.

 

I’ll take ya up if you still got some

 

Hit us up on the way through

 

All just speculation but I was thinking about the upper pulley. It doesn’t have a key and should be under similar torque to since it’s pulled by belt as well. Maybe diameter matters with force though.

The S/c crank pulley only has key that goes partially into crank pulley. It has even less grip than the stock crank one

 

Most of us re-used the solid pin. I did at least.

 

That’s what I did.

 

I don't know man. The situation sucks, but I've never seen this happen to a pulley that has been properly installed. This was either installer error (no disrespect Tony) or the bolt was tightened with too little torque applied to it.

I've been zapping on pulleys for years with 150 psi from the air compressor supply line to whatever gun I am using and have never had an issue with loose fastening hardware in critical situations like these. As of the time of this specific writing, this has held true as well.

 

Hey all,

i'm hoping someone could help me. I have an 06 Tacoma with this kit. It comes with the orange injectors (part number PTR2435071). I'm trying to get any injector data for these for my tune (HPTuners). Any assistance is appreciated.

 

@JustDSM can help you. Do you have the TRD tune already?

 

Hey, thanks for the quick reply!

I read the tune off the truck, so I have that. I have a feeling that's not what your referring to though :/

 

Are you fitting the Supercharger too? Or just installing the larger injectors?

 

Hey. Installed the entire kit, including the supercharger/injectors, etc.

I'm actually just a friend tuning the truck for a buddy. I'm actually a Subaru tuner, just trying to help out a friend. Really, thanks in advance for any help.

 

I'd really recommend actually flashing the ECU with the factory TRD Supercharger Tune. That's the proper way to go about it honestly. The TRD S/C Maps have a bit more resolution and other calibration changes that make it ideal for the S/C Truck.

However, to get the truck to a place that can flash the TRD S/C tune use these values:

Injector Constant: 9.168750
Injector Inverse: 2.38049

 

Thank you so much. So i'm assuming the TRD tune is done at the dealership? anything specific I need to know about it(cost, what to actually ask for, etc)?

Thanks for the values--any changes to offset? Seriously thank you.

 

Most dealerships won't flash it anymore. I can assist, or have one of the guys that flash my tunes help you out assuming you're in their area.

The S/C specific calibration is a factory Toyota file (.CUW) that needs to be flashed with different software and tools. It changes the operating system of the ECU so there are licensing ramifications if you've already credited the N/A operating system.

No other changes are necessary. The voltage offset tables are identical for the Denso injectors supplied in the S/C Kit.

No worries, glad to help out.

 

You've been extremely helpful. Thank you again.

Unfortunately I doubt i'm in the area (I live in Hawaii). Any options for someone out here? I'm pretty well versed in the Subaru world with recovering bricked ECU's using their stock files and boot mode--Is flashing the factory file a similar process?