Front diff leaking gear oil from the breather

Looking like the 85w-140 might not have been the best fluid to use.
I used it because that’s what ECGS recommended. I even called them and asked.

Now, since the temps have dropped. The fluid is puking out the front diff breather.
Anyone have any ideas? I’ve seen a few guys that said this has happened to them too.
I even made a post about it before I did the bushing.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...as-your-diff-breather-started-leaking.719245/

It never did this with the OE fluid. I’m thinking I might need to go to

$30 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90?

 

Did you regear or something?
I had the same thing happen to me. Check the vent caps on top of the vent hoses on the inside fender to make sure they are clear. Also the condition of the hoses.
I may have overfilled some because I lifted mine on a floor jack just to get under there so who knows if it was level or not (likely not).

 

Nope, I’m running stock gears.
I did check the hose.
That’s how I found the source of the leak.

If anything, the breather cap was “tight”.
I twisted it back and forth, around and around.
It spins pretty freely now. Maybe not as free as the other smaller breather beside it.
But it definitely has more play in it now.

I’m going to keep an eye on it. Might do the filter mod.
If it continues, I’ll go back to

$30 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 and see what happens.

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/front-diff-breather-continues-to-leak.701808/page-2#post-25605536

If you have an ARB this may be your issue. Happened to me as well. Eventually the puking will settle out, just wrap a nice shop towel around the breather head for the time being to catch the extra.

 

I’m running all stock. OEM gears. Only thing I’ve added was the bushing.
I plan to add a filter just like the one in the link.
Going to get the one with different fittings, it looks like 1/4” line?
But I’m not sure, might as well get the kit and have the right fitting.

Surely standard “pinch” style fuel clamps will work? (I believe the correct term is - constant tension)

Won’t get to it until first of next week. Got a lot to do this weekend.
I’ll just keep and eye on it, and do like you said. Cover the end with a shop towel.

Thanks for the help

 

I believe it’s 1/4” line yes. They are called constant tension clamps. Good place to get quality ones.

https://www.belmetric.com/constant-tension-clamp-c-15_559/?zenid=lp8hc8s77r716anpjq9quad307

 

I have plenty. But I will remember that link if I ever need more. Thanks.

I recently bought a tractor that need the entire fuel line system replaced.
It had 2 fuel filter, a lift pump, and about 7 different length of hoses.
I bought the clamps by the hand full. Finally broke down and bought a whole assortment kit.
With all the mowers and equipment, I figured why not.

 

Also if you don’t have these, they are a life saver and a knuckle saver

$30 Astro Pneumatic Tool 9409A Hose Clamp Pliers,Blue Clamp Pliers

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003D3N7YW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

 

If you're running stock gears why did you switch to such a heavy oil? Just for the bushing? I never read anything about that and have been running the normal

$30 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 in my truck for at least two years since doing the bushing.

Admittedly Im not really sure why thicker oil alone would cause this.

 

ECGS told me to. I figured they know better than me. They do this stuff for a living.

Evidentially, my truck is dislikes gear oil.
It blew a rear axle seal at 75k.
Ate the needle bearing on a stock truck by 135k. Not even lifted.

Or maybe it’s me. I’m cursed by gear oil.
I bought a tractor, didn’t know until the next day the front axle gear case was busted. That was expensive. At this point I might as well by gear oil in 5 gallon buckets.

 

I got those when when we did a heater control valve on a Lincoln LS.

WTF, who ever picked the spot to place that thing, needs their arse kicked. Lol
No way you can get pliers in there. You need that clamp tool.

 

Parts acquired. Not too confident this will “fix” the issue. But it’s worth a short.
Try to save $25 of “new” gear oil.

 

Drain. Run some standard weight gear oil and call it good.

$30 75w-90 Synthetic Gear Lube - 1 Quart (Pack of 2)

75w-90 full syn for years and 126k miles, 116 of which have had an ecgs bushing and zero issues.

And that's from 115- 0*f ambients.

 

There's nothing wrong with the thicker weight, and also no need to run synthetic. Good old dino oil will run fine for years, once the initial "puking" is done, it will be fine for a good long while. What I'd suggest is to take the breather cap off, blow air down the line with the fill plug disconnected. That'll remove just enough to keep it from riding back up the vent tube.

 

That’s probably what I’ll do.
Does the breather just pull out of the line?
It hasn’t leaked/puked any more out.

Maybe its cleared the line itself now?

I had a trip planned for out of town, then it was canceled.
Then it started raining and I couldn’t get to messing with it.
Maybe I’ll have time over the weekend.
Until then, I’m just going to run it and see if it pukes it out any more.

It definitely makes a mess.
It leaked down the fender well, onto the top of the shock mount, to the frame.
I hate gear oil. A little goes a long ways.

 

I believe it's a barbed connection that will pull out yes. Comes up right by the fuse box in the engine bay. I hear you on the mess, a high elevation oil leak makes for alot of room for gravity to have fun with the oil.

 

Yeah, it’s the bigger one. Toward the back. The hose is larger in diameter also.
(For anyone in the future)

 

I know this doesn’t apply to the OP, but for others researching this, it may help. For those that have regeared and put an ARB locker in this is what I was told by ECGS-


“The main issue and it is fairly common is oil flow and the ARB. The ARB seal housing blocks oil flow from the tube back to the diff more so than the factory set up. The breather is located on the tube side of the seal housing so oil gets caught right at the breather. If you drain the diff it does not drain the tube. If you overfill diff it will spill over into the tube and can’t get back. This also happens even if you don’t overfill.

New diffs build more heat and oil expansion happens, so more oil than normal gets into the tube. The solution is to drain the tube by removing the actuator. 4 bolts, plastic box, that has shift fork attached on tube. Pull the actuator and let the oil drain out. Not a whole lot will come out. Reseal and you should be good from here on out. Some times you have to do it twice. I have had one customer have to do it 3 times. Once diff is broken in it will stop and self-regulate. Not everyone has to do it but if you do have to typically you only have to do it once in the early stages.”

 

Yes just barbed fittings. The smaller one is the ADD actuator breather.

Think of the leaking oil as a free undercoating

Wonder if a small amount of compressed air could be used in that case to drain the tube without having to take it all apart

 

I don’t know if that only applies to the guys running an ARB? I know that I’m not taking mine apart. If I do, it will be the last thing I try.

If you only knew the amount of gear oil and RTV I’ve been through in the last couple months.

It’s like everything I’ve worked on lately has had a gear oil leak. ( Tractors use a lot of it) and I’m tired of working in that stuff. It stinks. Lol