REVIEW 3rd gen suspension on 2nd gen

remove the front flaps and no more rubbing

 

@SoCal_Erik I did remove them. Not the mud flaps, the ones on the front of the fenders

 

Driver side( bottom spring end facing the cab(red/green dot)) passenger side(bottom spring opening facing cab as it should(red blue dot)) no AAL, just a fresh set in the back
Following a photo of the truck with weight in the back (take in consideration road crown)
Cheers.

 

@Ricardo13x where'd ya get your springs from? I need a new set for the back and OEM and crazy expensive..

 

I believe there was a recall not so long ago and when I got the truck they were in there. I’m the second owner to the truck. What I got in the beginning of this year was, the 4 shocks and front spring out of a 2020 dcsb trd off road. For 100 bucks with less that 500miles on them.

 

I've been dreaming of finding a like new 3rd gen set for that price.

 

I believe I have 3 + the overload. That’s what I’m wondering.. if I can get an OEM leaf pack off a 3rd gen and not have an AAL.

I can’t see my truck right now. I’m working 7 12’s and my wife is driving my truck since her van is in the shop. So I’ll have to verify that information.

 

I bought a set of brand new take off third gen suspension a couple years ago and finally decided to make the swap. Based on what I've seen on this thread I added a 1.5" add a leaf to the back and a 1/4" spacer to the front coilovers. I ended up with between an inch and a half and two inches in the back, and somewhere more like an inch to an inch and a quarter in the front. I was hoping for a more even lift front to back, and maybe it will even out a bit after I drive a few hundred km. We'll see. I'm not too upset about a little more lift in the back than the front, as I tow a travel trailer, so it may work out well. I need some new tires in the next month or two, so I think I'll go back to 265/75/16, right now I'm on the stock size, 265/70/16.

First picture is before, the second two are after.

 

So I just did a set of 2020 trd or front coilovers.
Doing the red green dot drivers side has the lower end of the spring facing the front.
Is this a problem or does it really matter?
The set I got had red/green and white/orange on them.

 

Review post #622 before installing.

 

I did but in order for that to work the red/green dot would have to be passenger side?
Without rotating bottom of shock the 3 holes are timed.
Maybe the color codes are different on the newer ones?
They are installed now red green drivers side and bottom of spring facing forward.
Everything seems fine so far.
It has the driver side 1/4 lower but drives handles like new.
Sway bar seems close but hasn’t rubbed yet.

 

Like you I had alway heard the the red and green go on the DS. They don't, watch this video and play close attention to from the 3:00 mark to the 4:10 mark. He pulled the red/green from the PS. There are other post in that thread worth reading.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/strut-left-vs-right.702400/#post-24899778

 

You won't have to worry about the sway bar contacting it at all since the outside diameter is no different that what you replaced and the lift isn't drastic. Where you run into issues is with more lift the bar will become more stressed and angles have changed which can lead to the sway bar contacting the spring. For that issue it can be addressed 2 ways, longer/adjustable links or a spacer on the sway bar mount.

 

It's amazing how asymmetric everything is on the front suspension...

 

I swear I saw something a while back I looked but didn’t find it.
Does anyone know of the camber specs need to be changed from stock? I’ve got outer shoulder wear after a year… im replacing my tires shortly and getting it re aligned and don’t want to fuck up new tires. Any input is appreciated

 

Unless you're racing you want close to zero camber. If you off road or want better stability have the camber towards the positive side. If you drive hard and dive into the corners you want a little more negative camber.

 

Yeah my issue is I replaced a lot of components when I replaced the front shocks then got it aligned. So before I throw money at another alignment I was trying to figure out if the camber numbers should be offset to deal with the slightly different stance with the stiffer coils

 

Not sure what you mean by offset of the camber numbers.
Offset from the factory specs...as in different specs than factory?

Like I mentioned previously, its typical to be more positive for stability and off roading if thats want you want. In my experience, if you're mostly street and highway you want to be 0 (zero, zed) to slightly positive for even tire wear and good braking.

'Camber offset' is your distance to the wheel from vertical.

 

Everything should be put to factory spec, it isn't too much lift to require anything special. Might want to put some penetrating oil on the lower control arm bolts/joints. Soak those MF-er's!! They are almost always frozen so it may help the alignment guy if there are any camber or caster adjustments.