Anything welding

Looking for trailer fab advice

I am looking into building a dump trailer for yard work and hauling raw materials.

making one instead of buying because it can be slightly cheaper and get the size I want. (Don’t want to make it wider than the Tacoma)

I need help with the axle. Would like to have the trailer be multi purpose down the line if I need it to be a camping trailer so I am going for the modular approach. Take the dump bed off and attach the camping one. (I have a car lift so it’s not an issue). But what I am stuck with is the lug nuts. The bolt pattern to fit Toyota rims is available 6x5.5. But the stud is standard size 1/2”. If you have experience mounting a stock Toyota rim please enlighten me. Toyota uses the flat lug vs conical taper so I can’t see how I would convert without running a wheel spacer.

 

First Lug Nuts there are the Short Shank Lug Nuts( Flat) for Aluminum Wheels Then the Steel wheels use a Tapered Lug Nut Both are M12x1.5

The 6 on 5 1/2" is also the GM pattern hence the 1/2" thread most likely why that size is listed 1/2" is 13mm

Just which wheels are you planning to try and use? Aluminum or Steel ? Source 6 lug steel Wheels and use the correct lug nuts

If you want Aluminum Wheels your going to need to change to the Correct Studs.

How do you plan to dump the trailer self contained hydraulics so all you need to run the electric of sufficient current to start and run a 12VDC motor and pump??

I would build Two trailers and be done.

 

I got a 6x5.5 trailer hub (ordered my axle just slightly shorter than I needed) and then put the 1.5" bora spacers I had laying around from my truck when I was on stock wheels. Spacers and stock wheels are now on my trailer. using the low profile spacer lugs to connect to the hub worked great and now I have dust cap clearance as well as longer lugs to use the stock tacoma lugs on. (switched to acorn with aftermarket wheels on the truck)

Do you plan to take the trailer in "Camp" mode off pavement? If so the build may want to look different than a dump trailer just from a rigidity standpoint.

 

I plan to run stock trd sport rims with the same tire so that I don’t have to carry multiple size spares. So that’s why I stuck on the 12 vs 13 mm. Not sure if they make replacement studs and rather not do spacer but it looks like I have to go that route.

the hydraulic will also be modular and be easy to remove with no spill quick connect. They have permanent units which I will buy down the line (bucher pm-319-6p) but for now I plan to drag my maxjax lift power unit around to do the lifting with generator.

I live in the big city of Los Angeles so space is a premium and I’m running out of room at the house so being able to use it for multiple purpose is ideal. Plus visiting the dmv twice and double the registration would suck. I think it’s possible.

that’s what I think I may end up having to do. I plan to use it for off road too. I plan to make the main frame stronger for this reason.

 

Just keep in mind that the stronger you make it usually means the heavier it will be. I am currently battling that in my build. I want it pretty strong but it comes with the price of weight... and also cash cost cause thicker metal cost more haha

 

I don`t think it will be very hard to get the correct studs in the axles . a up close and in person look would give me a better axle

I feel your pain I could not be paid enough to ever live in a city .

Good luck with your project

 

Latest project

 

Does anyone here notch tube with a plasma cutter?

 

I have before, but I wouldn't recommend it for a cage build or any large project.

 

I'll keep using a grinder I guess.

 

It just didn't seem very efficient, not that was unsafe or anything like that. You could definitely make some large cuts first and then fine tune with the grinder.

 

I notch a lot for my projects, I use round tube 90% of the time. I need a faster way to do it. Yeah I always use grinder to fine/fit finish

 

Do you have a tube notcher? If so, why not use that? If not, why not just get one if you could use one so frequently? I was slow to get one and once I did, I wondered why I waited so long. Makes life a whole lot easier.

 

I do have one. However I only do 90° notches with it.. Other angles are usually odd cuts/fits. Example: one tube end fitting into a perpendicular joint.

 

The cut won't weld very good. You will end up with lots of porosity. You have to grind the cut before it will weld decent. Might as well keep using the grinder to do the notching.

 

First time running stainless steel; kind of figure out real quick that your travel speed needs changing after doing non-stainless





The many non-stainless T's I was doing just before



Still learning!

 

Some bell seal repair in the case. Start with grinding out old threads, welding in material and then machining in new threads and sealing surfaces (I was already gone before they finished.)

9018 1/8” 130a

 

What's everyone's thoughts on cheap, offbrand plasma cutters? Eyeballing this one currently:

https://yeswelder.com/products/plasma-cutters-cut-55ds

It's a tool I'd like to have, but not something I would use regularly, so don't want to splurge too much on one.

 

I bought this one to aid in my trailer build and any future projects. I am also only a hobbyist so it sees use a few times every couple weeks and I am happy with it. I bought a pack of extra consumables to keep on hand.

$305 LOTOS LTP5000D Plasma Cutter + Lotos PCS22 Plasma Cutter Consumables Sets

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B091V772J9?ie=UTF8&th=1