Haltech Stand alone ECU supercharger 3.4, SILVER BULLET TUNE www.snpspeed.com

FL2K and then Florida Race Week, they participate in both

 

Been watching cleetus jackstand . coop , kyle and all the boys videos racing fl2k

 

Hell yeah, I mostly just wanted to see George detonate the blazer haha. But I'm pumped for Florida race week. @1997tacomav6 has had his dyno and some fine tuning done by the guys at PFI Speed, who I'm sure you know are down there to rip a couple builds and then for Brent to go on race week with ol Cleeter.

 

yup I posted on one of PFI's videos and brent said he wished he could have made a video dynoing the tacoma but was making a different video and had too much to do. I was pumped about the blazer too. It was so cool seeing it pick up so much time with each modification. If you like the blazer One of my favorite youtube channels is Street racing channel SRC. billy aka"the Kid" and his twin turbo 400 small block s10. they street race and no-prep 1/8 mile. theres a florida drag week?

 

And we got the sticker installed today

 

Another update option if you decide to go this road.

1) So with the new AEM 50-1220 340lph fuel pump that I installed after the haltech tune, I now don’t need the use of methonal for fuel
enrichment. It actually ran very rich, AFR were touching 9-10.

So the haltech fuel map had to be adjusted, so make sure you install the high flow pump before your tune.

2) the 2nd thing I noticed now that the methonal is not connected is the rapid heat of the air intake after the supercharger once boost starts.
I have a separate air temp gauge in the SC after the air is compressed.
In boost my temperature shows a rapid heat increase of 20-30 degrees and more depending without methonal.

With the methonal and a 4 nozzle the temperatures rises 5-10 degrees.

So I don’t really have any SC heat issues in winter when it’s 30-60 degrees outside.

I did try spraying with just water and it bogged down the engine.
I dropped the nozzle to a #2 where it didn’t bogged down but it didn’t help
much keeping temperatures down.

I talked to Gabe and came up with an option (had to send the haltech back to him)


The haltech will be setup with 2 maps,
1) a winter map no methonal
2) a summer map with methonal and a 3 or 4 nozzle

Each map will need a separate tune and of course can be used when ever you want.

A toggle switch will switch from one map to the other and I believe can be done on the fly.

He is also seeing if a jumper cable with a OBII adapter will connect to the scanguage II to see if it will work
with haltech as it doesn’t at this time,
Sent the haltech back for this option,
Will update soon

 

What is the issue with your scangauge right now, before a fix is applied?

 

I didn’t have a harness adapter to plug the scanguage into the haltech,
The OBII is for the stock ECU and the stock ECU is not part of the system anymore.
So a harness is needed to run it into the haltech

 

Why not just use a much more functional Haltech screen though. You could interact more and get better data... An not have to use a crappy scangauge too haha

 

I agree, but I don’t want any more gauges stuck on my dash,
They make a bunch of cool ones tho

 

I get that the OEM ECU has no knowledge of the Haltech and what it is doing. But I am wondering if the Haltech can give readout data like system voltage, coolant temps, air intake temps and trans fluid temps. These are things managed thru the ECU and that data will continue to be valid.

 

I will see if he can hook it up 1st.
Seems like I’m the guinea pig trying to figure these things out and reporting back

 

Another update,

The haltech has been running great, but with the new 340hpl fuel pump the methonal is not needed and is tuned now without Methonal

Because of this I noticed the supercharger intake temps have shot 20 plus degrees in the summer.

So I decided to put a smaller nozzle and run just water.

Well the water bogged down the engine.

So I decided to go a different route.

I talked with Gabe and sent him my haltech to have it updated to
have TWO maps.
1) one map will be for summer and tuned with methonal for summer heat.
1) 2nd map will be tuned for winter with no methonal when heat is not an issue.

The maps will be able to be switched on the fly with a switch.

So you might think about adding this when you order your wire harness.

 

What caused the bogging? Was it too much water? Or was it when the spraying was occurring?

The Haltech can manage on a pretty nuanced level when the snow system sprays can't it?

 

Yes, to much water when spraying,

A methonal mix reduces heat much Better than just water.

Yes, the haltech can control the methonal spray by making any needed adjustments.

 

Has the MAF sensor been completely removed? Is it solely a VE tune?

 

You can leave the stock MAF and tube in place if you want.
There is NO current going to this sensor when the haltech is plugged in,
I just tied the MAF plug off as shown in the yellow circle

I actually removed the entire section and put in a 3.5” tube section from the 2.5” section that was in there from stock.

 

The Maf has a air temp sensor that could be used to richen the AFR during hot weather or lean out during cooler weather. Maybe be able to eliminate the methanol/water injection completely. When I get my haltech, I will be installing a larger MAF to allow the ECU to adjust more dynamically. The MAF with temp sensor working with the VE tune is the way to go. You could drive from Mt. Everest to Death Valley and the ECU would make adjustments to fit the environment.

 

Good thing for me to look in to.

So the intake temperature is going to be on a warm summer day let’s say 100 degrees temperature at the MAF, and the supercharger temperature at idle will be 140 degrees and under boost can be 170 degrees.

The supercharger output temperature is usually always around 130 degrees and up.
So would you put a temperature sensor on the out put side of the supercharger going into the engine at 140-180 degrees or the intake tube section at the MAF?

 

I would leave it on the intake low pressure side and not after the supercharger and allow the ECU to adjust the fuel table. I would think the discharge side of the supercharger would be too erratic and would cause many small and large fluctuations. MAFs like smooth and steady. Same goes with the temp sensor. That is why they are put so close together in the stock set up.