Shop Time w/T.W. Friends

I'm too old to be a cool kid, but... Pledge furniture polish. Spray a bit on and buff with a soft cloth.

 

If I still had my powder coat set up I'd definitely do stuff in green! A green tinted clear coat looks amazing over polished aluminum, stainless steel and chrome.

 

This is a brilliant idea that I shall test! Thank you

 

aluminum and copper what?

 

Welcome!

If it’s something that could be taken to a powder coater they have a clear. If it’s on a fixed something like a house, I have no idea.

 

Morning crew. Ahhh, what will today bring? We shall see soon enough I guess....
I have a feeling yesterday's job could result in a rework dent in our armor. Just don't think that locking a pillow block / taper lock down on a shaft and THEN hammering the shaft through for positioning is a good idea. I tried to tell them three time to move the shaft back for the outboard bearing positioning.

 

Morning Shane

 

Somebody tell me what I’m doing wrong. These have to be water tight. They are cooling jackets, tig welding them and this one just cracked. They have a hollow cavity inside and get machined after being finished in the lathe after welding. I cleaned them with lacquer thinner before welding, inside and out to get any trace of oil/coolant off.

 

Do you need to heat up the part first before welding?

 

Here’s the inside, a little blocker plate is in there then it gets machined and two pipe thread holes for the coolant.

 

I don’t know, I don’t think our tig machine has enough oomph to get good penetration. May send them to another shop, they have a big tig welder.

 

irregular cooling?

 

I don't think you can continuous weld those parts.

Because aluminum transfers heat so we'll, you are "growing" the entire part. The weld is the weak point and the part swells to the point of failing the weld.

 

This is 1045 hot rolled

 

I see. I got nothing.

 

https://forum.millerwelds.com/forum/welding-discussions/22928-welding-1045

 

This is what I thought. He may have to heat the whole donut to 500º+ to be able to continuously weld it.

 

What filler metal are you using ??

A slow cool down might work the filler cooled faster then the piece causing the crack from what I see in the pictures

 

WTF? That shouldn't crack like that. I agree with the pre-heat; toss it in the over for an hour on 450. Since that part is AFU, sacrifice it for analysis and see what the penetration is like.

Edit: I see it now, on second look. The outer sleeve is so much larger it's heat-sinking the weld too quickly. It needs to be nice and hot, and then cool it in a sand/lime/ash bath.