questions you thought were too dumb to ask

Okay, that makes me feel better like I'm not missing anything then. Thanks

 

Why isn't phonics spelled the way it sounds?

 

anyone get a clunk start after they changed suspension?

hopefully everything is clocked correctly on my new 5100's such as the bottom perch plate
I'll re-check everything to make sure all bolts/nuts are tight

have wheeled before but it's too much of a coincidence for a clunk to happen at about the same time
lower ball joints been leaking grease but also, too much coincidence for that to clunk now too
they don't have detectable play when squeezing with big pliers
however, will be installing new LBJ's soon; just got some in the mail (Moog greasable)

 

“squeezing with big pliers”? That’s not how you check lower ball joints.

 

Jack up the wheel in question, then slide a pry bar under the tire and lift. If the LBJ is bad, that's when you'll feel it.

 

how does this double cab have leather seats?

 

If I had to venture a guess, the owner bought the leather seat covers, then had a shop do the install.

 

2nd Gen with leather interior definitely changes the interior!

 

Based on my experience it looks like the owner added Clazzio seat covers.

 

I have Clazzio covers. The center section is perforated leather. The rest is plastic.Those pictured may be Katzkins.

 

Is the spare really needed if you have Load E 10-ply tires?
I don't imagine they're gonna pop ever...
and a puncture can be aired up until it's patched

 

Katskin reupholstered

 

Spares are just extra weight and inflates profit. Just change out those E load (10 ply) for a set of solid rubber tires. NO worries.

 

only asking because
1. It barely fits. 33. I’m sure 35 won’t and that swingout addition would be necessary. Especially if installing Archive hammer hangers with the cross brace that blocks mounting a spare
2. installed high clearance rear bumper. Definitely higher clearance. So high in fact that now the spare is what hangs low down to the ground and looks uglier than if nothing was there at all

 

Change to solid rubber.

You won't need a spare. You can shave/carve the tire to any diameter and tread pattern you want.

 

trying to put raptor lights in the stock honeycomb grill
the honeycombs are diamond, so I'm thinking of buying some flat plastic (black) to cut into diamond shapes, then epoxy to the backside of 3 honeycombs.
And a plastic welder with stainless steel mesh to reinforce it against wind

What's the best type of plastic, and thickness to use?
I know there's ABS, PVC, HDPE, etc.
I'm guessing HDPE would be strongest/best

found this on Amazon, $15 for enough material
but it's 1/4". Maybe a bit thinner would be better, like 3/16"?
What I see online from Home Depot costs more and comes in way bigger sheets (unnecessary)

Would then drill appropriate size holes into the "fill plates" to install Oznium LED bolts, 11mm



What's the best way to wire extra lights, such as side turn signals, license plate LED's, and raptor lights?

I'm thinking of buying this just for the connectors, and throwing away the ugly light unit. To crimp onto Oznium LED's, so they can be dis connectable




I understand the easy and common way, is finding your existing turn signal/license plate wiring, cutting into it with a T-tap or running it to battery posts, and calling it a day
which hopefully the wiring is thick enough (including on the factory side) to allow enough voltage to pass through for the lights to operate without dimming/flickering

But, any time I see people do that, it always looks like the ugliest most hackjob mess with a bazillion tiny wires running all over the place

 

anyone ever add mudflaps with liners removed and high clearance steel rear bumper?

I used to have regular RokBlokz when stock but I think they require screwing into the factory liners