New England B.S. Thread

Redneck leaf pack. Need a new longer center pin... This is gonna be good.

 

Sending you a PM

 

AAL would work but would reduce ride quality, unless its an icon progressive AAL. I wouldn't mix and match leafs, unless the arch and spring rates are pretty similar, since its your daily. If it was a trail truck then just make bastard packs all you want

 

@CttAznRanger ^---------This. I would set the RXT's to the 3 stage option and sell the other 2 OEM ones. I would not mixed and match them.

 

Morning guys, I haven’t been on social media much recently. But I logged in here this morning and figured I’d give you guys a little life update.a couple weeks ago I bought my first house.

 

For all you folks in MA - pretty substantial discounts through MassSave on home thermostats:

https://www.poweredbyefi.org/masssave/black-friday.html

 

Found something in Easthampton or stayed local enough?

 

I’m now in Westfield, 15 minutes away from my parents in easthampton.

 

Can anybody with the knowledge of New Hampshire building codes, Nashua to be specific., tell me if there is a code in regards to roofing that I have to plywood over the barn boards if the spaces are 1/4” between each. I can understand a bigger gap but…
Got a price of almost $23,000 due to this.
This is the first price I’ve got. I have one more coming in about an hour. I did roofing for years and I’m aware of this to a degree but it’s been so long. My old boss said he would come here and do this on his own with some people and he would beat the price that I get and is come Sunday to look. But I’m just wondering if I can get away with not sheathing the whole roof with plywood if I don’t have to.

 

Congratulations Nick!!!

 

Quick scan of IRC(not NH, it may be more strict, not less)..

Verbiage for sheathing, says "close fitting"

Also, each sheathing seam needs to be sealed.

So, based on what I'm reading, and my experience with both houses up here(mass), I would sheath it. Don't remember if I used 1/4or 3/8... but, did that, sealed seams, etc.

YMMV

 

Sounds like if you’re trying to meet code sheathing will be needed. If you don’t care about code, well….

3/8 or 7/16 would probably be the minimum thickness you'd want to run . New construction often uses 5/8 (red) zip system for roofs and 7/16 (green) zip for walls. Since you already have boards existing on the roof deck you could probably run 7/16 zip, hit the seams with the tape and be good to go.

 

Did some maintenance on the FJ today! Gotta love long travel


Ended up replacing the 16” 600lb springs with some 14” 600lb springs on the Kings, at the same time I found the driver’s wheel bearing had a lot of play and the upper control arm bolt/nut just about fell off! No wonder the truck handled like crap


Ended up lowering the front end by about an inch, which made the angles MUCH better. Threw a hasty alignment on it, got it pretty close to good. At least now it doesn’t pull right when braking hard, and it doesn’t pull left when accelerating! It’s amazing what having level-ish geometry in the front end will do.

I think I’m going to lower it another 1/2” or so, get the alignment dialed in, then it’s getting new tires next week.


(ground isn’t level in either pic, the truck sits level side to side on flat ground)

 

Not sure, as on both places, went over the existing the "barn boards". 3/4 or 1 inch thick IIRC. The sheathing was just to close the gaps, and make it "close fitting", and easier to seal the seams, etc.

In this case, I'd have a discussion with the inspector, and find out what THEY want to pass inspection....

 

I didn't have to resheath mine last year in MA.

HOWEVER

Mine was getting a metal roof. @Pibbles99 what are you using?

 

Call city building inspector

I’ll be using asphalt shingles. In my experience we would only sheath the deck if there was consistent gapping throughout the roof of 3/4” or more and the boards were in overall tough shape.
I spoke with the city inspector and she said basically the roof needs an adequate nailing surface to apply all roofing materials. I’ll read through what @Chasespeed posted more closely as well . It will help

 

I just cleaned and freshened up the old Weber grill. Man do those things get messy! Now it's cleaned plus I put in new flavor bars and I even did a little upgrade. I bought and installed the little light add-on. Grilling up some chicken for dinner tonight.

 

My flavor bars rotted to shit. Found stainless ones on Amazon. Holding up pretty well

 

Mine got trashed too after about 2 years. Wasn't Weber but, same idea. I will probably rehab mine in the spring, I put new bars in this past spring but will probably clean up any rust or whatnot this spring. I use the charcoal side as a smoker so that could use some tending to as well. I have mine fortunately pretty close to my outdoor light so, that does the trick for me.

I gotta get out there this weekend though - maybe I will do that Friday while I am dealing with leaves - smoke some cheeses for christmas

 

Any of you guys order from Backcountry.com? Mod bug has bit me for the mountain bike, got me eyeing a fork with some more adjustability and stiffer. I think I'm narrowed down to a few, I think I want a 36mm fork, 150 or 160 mm travel, fairly short offset. Backcountry has one that fits the bill at a decent price, it's the Fox 36 Float so it's got the older Grip damper, not the Grip2 (but still likely way more suspension and tuning than I'll ever chew up). I'm wondering if Backcountry.com is legit, the reviews are all over the place...