Fitting 35’s with minimal trimming NOW ADDING LONG TRAVEL AND 934 CV’s

Absolutely. It's still a build in progress. For basically the first "full tilt" run, it was fantastic. It floats. Magic carpet ride?

 

Okay so with fender cutting and some manipulation of the firewall the 35x12.5’s don’t rub lock to lock. It will still rub with some decent articulation. Can’t wait for my inner fenders, pivots, slide rack, uca. That should get me close to no rub and a pretty solid setup while I save up for the rear end kit!

 

I like the first set I bought used with race tires…so bought another set to match for street tires and have been waiting on my beadlock rings for 5 months now…someone screwed up and sent me the wrong color and I’ve been waiting 2 months for them to get powder coated the right color… now granted I get it with covid and all but it’s starting to get really annoying… other than that they are great wheels just heavy.

 

Also anyone know if on a 3.0x16 bypass if this spacer is normal or are these spaced to 16’s and if I take it out I’ll have 18’s…

 

Do you have the JD lower pivots?

 

While I agree and disagree. I agree for the points that some people just throw random parts together and yes it’s set up wrong. I disagree for a majority of them because it’s not always the suspension. Given what the Toyota community has been given for parts over the years, you can have a very decent suspension, but it doesn’t package well with the surrounding parts of the truck. It’s not always known what it takes to help accommodate the well set up suspension.

The innovative parts JD is what I, and I am sure many of us are following for. I have mostly their complete front end and to the best of my abilities, resources, and funds, I would say is set up correctly. Do I rub? Yes. The suspension aspect is set up, but the packaging into the surrounding parts of the truck hasn’t been addressed yet. I’m still waiting for the inner fenders.

So that’s why I disagree with you saying people who say they run with 33s means they have a poor suspension set up. I bet you can throw almost any set up you can buy, properly set up, and you will still rub. Your issues move from suspension to body/sheet metal clearance.

 

So what should we do Mr. suspension wizard? Limit uptravel on a less than 5 inch travel shock so we have a total of 3 inches of travel to keep tires out of the fenders? 1” up and 2 down?

 

No not yet. I have a cab mount relocate, bilstein shocks and ome 884 coils. Everything else is stock until I get the rest of my jd fab stuff.

 

Nice. I feel like even with the JD I’ll still rub everything just not as much on the cab. Need to up my lift height.

 

Yeah I had my truck on jack stands for a week because I sold my old set and couldn’t wait 6 weeks for them so just got some china beadlocks on sale. They seem pretty beefy and have good hardware so I think they will be fine.

 

I mean his whole design was to get you to clear everything without having to tub the firewall. I think I’d you have his whole setup and it’s setup properly I don’t think you would rub. With his LT and lower pivots it will push the tire forward 2 inches. It will still hit the inner fenders on a bottom out though so you really need the inner fenders to set it up properly.

 

35’s full bump lock to lock with no run... read the thread and you will see how

 

I will throw out a kink to your thought process. Is a stock set-up set up properly? Yes it is but not for what we want. Should we not say that a properly set up suspension also includes making sure that it functions with out interference? Nothing functions in a silo. I think the direction Jesse and Harry decided to go with was in part that it is a lot better to deal with fenders than the firewall. I am sure they could get 20" out of the front if we are willing to pony up the coin for a tube front end and fiberglass fenders. But than we might need to be concerned with bottoming out the front cross member. Just semantics I know.

 

No doubt I knew people will have their different opinions. For those unwilling to modify surrounding structure of the suspension travel, should bump it accordingly to avoid rub. My opinion, sees it as the suspension functions in the complete manner it was intended to and surrounding structure to me isn’t suspension.

I personally thought the statement of everybody who rubs with 33s has their suspension set up wrong is not correct, but that’s my opinion. Not trying to start an argument.

I got as much travel as I could with the +4 kit, I’m on 315s and I rub the inner fenders, soon to be replaced. I can get those installed and then run into the same issue @kasnerd did. Frame/Body twist pushing those clearances even less without a rigid chassis. It’s a snowball effect with how myself and some of us are throwing parts at these trucks.

 

Well let's stop and get some perspective here. Look at the bonkers stuff we're doing with these trucks that's levels beyond the intended use. This is a path of optimization, exploration of limits and continual improvement. Kaizen.

 

I meant with what I purchased which is the lower pivots and arms. That’s badass tho.

 

FIFY

 

Well I decided to do rivets over the holes for the fenders and think it looks 100 times better. Also made sure to match the red dot on the tires with the valve stem. These things haven’t touched a balanced and drive better than my others ever did with multiple times to the balancer.

 

Spindles are done just need to weld the pivot kit up

 

They will be even smoother with about 10oz of beads in them!