The 2.7L Single Cab Thread

529s are probably perfect for 33s.
I have the Harrops from ecgs.

 

I've got a set of these N-Fab sitting, I'll let got for $100 + shipping

 

What seats did you use? How easy was it drilling out the holes for the inner mounting points?

 

Toyota 86 seats w/ over priced Planet seat brackets. I just had to remove everything below the sliders. I then used button head SS (SS is the same strength as #8) 10 & 8mm bolts to bolt the sliders directly to the brackets. I cut the seatbelt mount from the brackets because the seatbelt latch is on the side of the seat. I had to find used seatbelt buckles and purchase new latches for a Tacoma with bucket seats. The bench seat belts can be re-webbed to install the used buckles by a company on the East coast. (Sorry I don’t remember the name) The seatbelts for the bench seat are different than the bucket seats. completely different. That was the hardest part. Also it’s cheaper to buy new latches from the dealer than a wrecking yard! As for the buckles wrecking yards will not sell seatbelts that have been blown / used. Your best bet is to find a wrecking yard that will let you pull parts and cut them from used seatbelts. Tell them you only need the buckles. This search is the most difficult part.
Good luck!

*Edit* I got a PM from a member saying I could grind the buckles to fit. Yes you can but I’m not spending this much money to ghetto a part. When I do something I try to do it correctly or just don’t do it. Besides when I told the person I got them from what I was doing he said just take them because we just scrape them anyway. I still handed him a five and said buy yourself a adult beverage on me. So they cost me $5 and a drive across town.
Then you send the old belt to the company on the East coast and have them re-web the seatbelts with the new buckles.

Oh, I’m still trying to trick the seat on the passenger side airbag sensor into working. I understand I need to plug in a 3 ohm resistor in the holes for the plug. But there are 9 pin holes to pick from.

 

https://softopper.com

 

Not sure if this has been covered in this thread. Any regular cabbers have problems with a pop/clunk since lifting their rigs?

I have 884x coils up front and freedom off road ucas. Got new lcas in 2019 when I got my frame replaced.

I hear this popping or clunking noise when backing up and turning some times. Even when the wheel is only turned halfway. Hear it driving over bumps off road too. It got worse after taking my swaybar off, I think because the suspension is articulating more. I retorqued my uca bolts bit that didn't seem to help. I had someone tell me it could be the skid plates but it still does it without them.

What should my next move be?

 

how you like it? I was thinking about a topper but a hard top doesn't make sense, I like the soft top because of the versatility of it

 

I really miss mine for that exact reason. It's not as secure at a hard top but it keeps thing out of site and easy to remove and store. I just got too old to sleep in the bed of truck.

 

Mine has been clunking but it may have been there before the lift. I have new lower control arms that I still need to put in. I only hear the clunk when I back into my parking space (wheel turned slightly). Not looking at it until it warms up again.

 

My truck does the clunking sound too. Nothing has fallen off yet, might be fine lol.

 

I'm lifted with JBA arms and 5100s and that pop has been there before and after the lift. Not sure what it is but it's been there for couple years now and no one can tell me what it is.

 

I’m sure this has been answered somewhere in here but here it goes …

My 5 speed shift boot clips in the console are nearly all broken I know I can’t be the only one. What has been the best fix for this? Buy a new console?

 

Isnt it a known issue for second gens to have that clunking sound coming from the drive train? Something about a poorly leveled drive shaft? I thought this was my issue in the last year but it was a measly front u joint

 

The rear u-joint on my truck was horribly rusted, couldn't tell from the outside. I changed everything to greaseable after that.

 

Yes, it's been doing it for probably a year and a half now. Ever since the new coils. Does it on really rough forest roads and stuff too. I'm sure it's nothing too serious. My trucks so quiet in the woods when I'm hunting, minus all the little pops and creaks as I'm driving in

 

Noticed a few weeks ago my coolant reservoir was almost empty, so I decided to top it off till my next service with my mechanic which was today. Opened the hood yesterday and noticed the reservoir was empty again……..stupid plastic water bypass pipe decided to shit the bed and leak all my coolant out. Thankfully I drive the truck 3 miles between 2 jobs everyday so it’s not like I was going to catastrophically destroy the engine anytime soon. Took the truck to my mechanic today and now my $50 service turned into a $900 visit (had them look at some other things besides the coolant leak so I’m not surprised at the price). Anyways, hope everyone has a happy holidays coming up!

 

I hope it was replaced with the metal replacement part.

 

Exactly what my mechanic is putting in. Once he realized I was leaking a lot of coolant and looked at the mileage on my truck, he knew right away it was that pipe. I guess it’s a common thing, especially in the 4 cylinder trucks with high miles.

 

I love it, don't have any complaints. It's great for camping, and I can fold it down and have access to the entire bed in under five minutes. Highly recommend.

 

Cool thanks! Im looking at a black one for my silver reg cab waiting to pull the trigger lol