35x12.50r17 Fit?

Hey what's up everyone! Picking up a brand spankin new 2022 off road trim shortly and trying to plan and lay out my full build. From all the research I've been doing I'm pretty sure this will fit with no rubbing but I was curious if anyone here has experience with a similar build setup? Or alternative parts they think are better I'm open to suggestions!

Looking at:
-Cab mount relocation kit from alpine
-Kings Shocks set to 3 inch lift
-Diff drop kit
-Dirt Kings LCA
-Dirt Kings UCA (not entirely sold on these yet) maybe thinking icons?
-SCS BR6 rims 17x9 -38 offset
-BFG KO2 35x12.50r17 tires
-CBI T3 front and rear high clearance armor

 

Think about a re-gear.

 

Go here: https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...g-now-adding-long-travel-and-934-cv’s.626274/

Read all 500+ pages and then come back here.

 

Also, expect to wait about 9 months for all those parts, if not longer.

 

I’ve heard from many people who jack these trucks to the moon and add a ton of weight with giant tires, bumpers and so on..then complain about how dangerously slow the truck is. It seems like the re-gear is of the utmost importance if you are planning on those mods. I would also drive the stock truck for awhile before diving in the mod pool head first. Constants on the new truck, the MGM color is great for the long haul

 

Odd tire size.

35 mm wide with a 12.5% sidewall on a 17" rim......

Might have a hard time finding that tire or stretching it onto a wheel with a 9" rim width.

 

You will probably need to trim the fenders at least towards the bottom near the cab mount, also at full lock an stuffed you will probably also rub the firewall so if that bothers you then tubbing will be required, I have hit my firewall back with a big hammer an it still is not enough I need to tub. I had to trim the rear fenders as well as I also rubbed the trim when fully stuffed. I have the alpine designs CMR, been good to me so far. Some pics of my setup with trimming, CMR and smashed back firewall. I am running 35x12.5x17 Falken Wildpeak MT's on Ultra Motorsport X103 beadlocks 17x9 -14 offset.

 

Your on the right path. You will want new leaf pack. Add a leaf won’t cut it with the rear bumper for long. Don’t forget pinch weld and/or firewall with a BFH and trimmed fenders. Espwcially w/ that offset. As others mentioned you’ll want a regear. Not needed but will make life a lot better driving it.

 

"rub and tub"

 

I'm familiar with the slang term for a massage....."rub-n-tug"

 

Awesome info guys. Appreciate linking that other forum some really good info on there and I'm only 15 pages in haha. Yep 100% agree about changing that gearing out and getting leaf springs... forgot to add those into my list above but was definitely going to go with the nitro 5.29 gearing and then maybe the deaver expedition 2inch leaf springs.

Rims and tires look sick man, glad to see the similar tire size and rim size mounting worked out. Do you have any aftermarket UCA or LCA on yours? Was hoping those might be the key to avoiding taking a BFH to my firewall

 

Yes, the UCA's are icon tubular with the delta joint and factory LCA. You will likely rub the firewall using these or pretty much most of the uniball style UCA's. You may get away with using SPC UCA's as they allow for more caster to bring the tire forward more so less chance of rubbing the firewall but personally I am hard on my truck an don't have a lot of faith in ball joints, at least the upper ones. There has been at least two guys on here I am aware of who have separated the ball joint on the SPC UCA's so if you intend to wheel hard it is hard to recommend them but I'm sure there is also guys on here who will say they've jumped the cr@p out of their trucks etc with them an no issues, so you will have to decide for yourself.

 

The LCA won’t matter unless your doing the JDFAB LCA pivot kit (moves forward the tire some) which is more involved. They also make a UCA that moves or forward .75 I think. You can go with UCA no LCA unless you really need to beef it up.

I would recommend weighing your truck once it’s all loaded up or close to it to gauge your leaf pack. A rear swingout + 35 Aline will net 4-500lbs. If you plan on armor and carrying gas/water etc. you’ll likely be in the stg III and maybe up if you carry other stuff.

I’m on a 2nd gen but same offset set and all the other stuff mentioned and slight rub in heavy wheeling and full stuff but 90-95% it’s ok.

 

why would you want to do this drastic lift to a wonderful new truck?
maybe spend a few bucks and get a beater and lift it to the heavens?

 

That’s a joke right?

 

Always something snide and just as stupid

 

Yeah that's a good point. I definitely need to do some thinking on this and see what decision I come out to. Was just looking up adjustable upper control arms and it seems like the SPC are really the only ones on the market. It would be really nice to get away with not having to mess with my firewall. I've read a lot of stuff about people having issues with some leakage after messing with the firewall. Have you had any issues with that on your end?

 

Yeah man this is sick I actually didn't know about the JD Fab kits at all until I made this thread. Tacoma World is the best!! Definitely looking into the JD Fab uppers as an alternative now. Was reading on that lower pivot kit they make too and it seems like that's a whole lot of welding and cutting I really don't want to get into although that right there appears to be a one stop fix for 35s. Gonna have to keep thinking on that but right now I'm leaning towards maybe these JD Fab uppers or SPC uppers. Little weary based on the info dezert.taco provided with the SPC failing on a few users...gonna do some digging as to the integrity of the uniball the JD kit uses.

Good idea with weighing the truck. Was gonna just ballpark it but probably better to actually weigh it and do it right. Not really planning on the swing bumper right now but I will absolutely be having dirt bikes in my bed frequently If adding that 200 pound bike puts me into the next stage on leaf springs do you think it would be wise to stage up? Or go for the stage that fits the normal truck weight driving without anything in the bed?

 

I have not heard of anyone having issues after tubbing but then again there is not all that many guys that have it done, most guys just settle and are okay with some rubbing. True tubbing requires cutting out parts of the firewall where the tire is rubbing and rewelding new sheet metal farther back in place. Take a look through this fairly short thread and you'll get a better idea. As long as whoever welds it knows how to weld sheet metal there will be no leaks. Even with running SPC UCA's you may still rub in certain situations offroading, there is no guarantee using them will eliminate rubbing. Obviously rim backspacing/offset, tire size, amount of lift, UCA's/LCA's and alignment all play factors.

As for the SPC UCA's if its mainly a daily driver with some offroading they will hold up just fine. Those that have had them fail are not your typical weekend warriors. There is still a lot of guys on here running them with no issues.

Also as a note I do not rub the firewall when driving on the street unless is reverse at full lock ever so slightly, I primarily rub when offroading and the suspension is stuffed and turned. On climbs, dirt roads, wash board roads etc it doesn't rub majority of the time but I stuff my wheels enough it bothers me. I'm not sure how much you plan on offroading but even if its often you probably do not need to worry about tubbing the firewall if you aren't going to be flexing out the truck a lot.