Turbo BS Thread

Where is the check valve?

 

There were requests to see my current setup. Please speak up if you see something that needs attention

 

I have a strong feeling that the PCV line, right on that MAF sensor, is creating some turbulence. Or even oiling of the MAF. I'd be surprised if it wasn't.

 

Lol I think I was having a flashback to my 240 days. I hooked up a boost guage behind the check valve and only ever saw vacuum. These trucks don't have them, my bad on that one.

The boost reference for the wastegate should be right off the compressor housing. I can see you have a line there but can't see where it goes. Also this line should be going to the bottom port on a external wastegate. The top should be open to atmosphere (until it's time for a boost controller).

Tor has a good point about the pcv recirc location so close to maf. It sucks you only have a few inches of pipe available there. It is a good spot for both the maf and pcv, just kinda too close and probably oil fouling the maf.

Do you have any type of piggy back controller? How is that setup?

Also, I've seen a few other cx manifolds for other engines and the flanges havnt been decked after welding. This makes it near impossible to seal them. Yours may be in similar condition. If that is the case you need to have them surfaced either on a mill or belt sander. When installing, make sure to tighten from the center outward in a 2 or 3 step process, getting tighter each time.

Edit, just looked at photos again. You have a vented catch can. How is this setup? Where does the line on the intake go? You probably are sucking in unmetered air through the vented can minimally.

 

Unhook the can from the intake manifold, cap the manifold.

T the rear crank vent and passenger valve cover pcv vent together and send them to the can. Run a line from the can to your pre turbo intake pipe. Cap the can.

Like this..

 

@BassAckwards did you install a oil pressure sensor?

 

I ask because I'm going to pick this back up, wanted to see how others are doing it on the 2TR.
For my Holset brothers, please read this
https://www.benzforce.com/blogs/news/holsets-don-t-require-a-restrictor-yes-they-do

 

I have not yet, but that was part of what I wanted to do before going turbo. I was thinking oil pressure and oil temp gauges would be the next two I add, but I wasn’t sure where I wanted to tap into for the feed either. You could tee in where the factory sensor is, I believe that’s what @5 Lug Fury did on his. Something like this https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=11217

 

Or its time for a standalone...

In the passenger side, you have to remove the starter IIRC to get at the bottom bolts. I also remember having to remove one of the engine mount bolts as that was in the way but I forget if it was in the way of removing the starter or getting at the header bolt.

Also, the CXracing headers are not flat. Make sure you use the Toyota multi layer gasket, no cheaping on this. You can also use some high temp RTV if you want but I don't know how long that would last...

To Torspd's comment, yeah, I would move the MAF to where your BOV is located and just remove the BOV (unless you are boosting to the absolute limit of the turbo, its not really needed )

The other big issue with the MAF placement is the intake runner size is too big for that MAF. Its designed to run in a 2.5" (ish) runner.

 

On my Jetta there was a bolt hole on the engine not used. Since it was thicker walled I drilled it out and tapped to 1/4” NPT and put the drain/bleed pressure from the OPR to there and the oil would just return to the valve train. Only oil going there is what bypassed volume it takes to only send the pressure regulated oil to the turbo.

 

I've got a plan on the drain and already have a supply for the OPR, I need a spot for the pressure sensor.

I was thinking tee there too but don't want this made of aluminum.

 

@StAndrew I shot an email off to that tuner but no reply, I might drive over there one day in the next couple weeks.

 

Yeah I bought the adapter from pegasus auto and used a T for my turbo oil feed, stock pressure sensor and a pressure gauge.

 

Anyone live near Colorado Springs that could lend a hand. Im beyond over this project. Im close to just selling the truck.

 

@Ironworker84
Start with the easy stuff.

Unhook the signal line to bov. Venting metered air isn't helping.

Send the crank and pvc vent to the can and don't return it to the system anywhere.

Make sure there there are no open ports on intake manifold or intake pipe.


Report in after that.

 

I mounted the OPR to firewall and fed it using the OEM turbo feed for the 1.8t. Vented regulated pressure to the valve cover. There’s a port on the OPR for a regulated pressure sensor. I ran a gauge off of it snd sat it on the wiper while checking everything with cold start up, warm, and hot oil temps prior to removing once I was satisfied. Could’ve plumbed it in cabin but wasn’t concerned with monitoring it after a couple of days.

 

Two questions. Are you suggesting to just get rid of BOV, and i thought pcv and crank vent was the same thing. I had the manifold resurfaced before i installed it. I still have a massive exhaust leak coming from somewhere. I feel like the V clamps arent sealing a damn thing. Im going to make a smoke machine tonight and see what i can find. Ill tell ya i thought i knew enough about toyotas to handle this project. Boy this was a humbling experience. I hipe i dont continue throwing money into this hoping to fix the problems with no luck.

 

@Ironworker84
I'm not suggesting to eliminate the Bov, just Bypass it for now.

There is a Pcv vent on the passenger valve cover and a crank/block vent towards the back center of engine. Long story short send them both only to the can for now. Make sure the intake manifold and intake pipe are capped. Start here and let's move forward with small steps in progress.

These projects are not easy. I just over came low compression, high idle and a dying transmission, (still have busted steering to go). I'm almost ready to reward myself with boost again. It's a long bumpy road and it's lonely at the top. Or something like that.

 

Ah so the OPR sensor port will show pressure coming in?

 

No, not coming in but leaving. It uses ORB fitting but you can get a T in 4an with a port. Put that on the feed line and you’ll be good to go from there. The two side ports are for the feed in and regulated out. The front port is for regulated pressure.