Tractors, Mowers, Chippers, Trailers, Chainsaws, Generators, Boat Engines, & Flood Control.

Is this the one needed?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-4-X-1-X-...Bushing-Sleeve-Sheave-Crank-Key-/251985144959

 

This is what I used when I repowered my Ariens snowblower

XtremeAmazing 3/4" to 1" Inch Gas Engine Pulley Crank Shaft Sleeve Adapter Pulley Bore Reducer Bushing Sheave & Key Predator

$9 XtremeAmazing 3/4" to 1" Inch Gas Engine Pulley Crank Shaft Sleeve Adapter Pulley Bore Reducer Bushing Sheave & Key Predator

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JHVN1HT?_encoding=UTF8

 

Thanks for the feedback.

I must not have been using a good description when I check on Amazon.

Just because I may get a chance to use it Saturday (weather...?), I think I'll order one from Amazon, but go ahead and try to make one too. If mine works okay I can return the Amazon order.

 

Happy Turkey Day tractor folks!

 

Thanks! You, too!

 

You too!

 

I worked on the mouse house 3225 today. I welded some nuts inside the rear frame for the hitch bolts. The frame holes had been stripped and all 4 had nuts on them. It was a pain getting the top 2 off with the gas tank in.

I put in a new fuel line from tank to engine. I also built a little temp gas tank with a valve stem breather tube to use while I move it around with it torn apart. Should have done the breather in the cap so I could fill up easier--I may switch them.



I'm astounded by this thing. I replaced the air filter and the crankcase breather hose. Got my little gas tank in and hitch plate on. Fired right up, all hydraulics work perfectly, the deck actuator works fine and engages smoothly. This drives like a new GT. The pedal bushings are not even worn out. It will rip gravel in forward and reverse and runs at least 7mph.

The only things I can find wrong with it are that the fwd/reverse pedals are sticking. It doesn't stop when you lift, you have to ease into the opposite direction to stop it. The shock on the linkage may be bad. It has a drip at the back. It may be the axle seals.

While the seals suck to fix, it isn't the end of the world although it does require the rear diff to come apart. I did them on my 3205. Now that I got it running and driving good I will load it back up and go back to the carwash for a more detailed wash on the front framerails and front and bottom of the rear diff that I missed. You can see the grunge in the vid.

Hour meter hit 358hrs today and I believe it is accurate.

https://youtu.be/yK1iVt8aXsI

Next to my nekkid 3205

 

Good to see you’re feeling better.

 

Nice progress, glad to see you are back on your feet too.

I really like the gas can idea, I use an little push mower tank which is oddly shaped and difficult to keep upright.
What you built is way better and would even work nice on old cars.

 

Was going to go chop some leaves but mower won't start.
Couple questions for you experts.

John Deere X500 riding mower, 48" deck, gas v-twin engine. 2011 model I think.

The headlights come on when I turn the key but engine doesn't turn over. There is no click or anything from the starter. Just silence when I turn the key to start.
I assume/hope it's just a dead battery but I don't have a charger or jumper to check that.
Date sticker on battery says 3/17 so it's old enough to be a possibility. We recently had the first "cold" (<30F) night really so that also makes me hope it's just battery.

The other question though is something I've noticed in years past during cooler weather where it seems to struggle to engage the PTO for the mower deck on the first try. About a week or 2 ago was last time I used it and it actually stalled the engine the first time I engaged the PTO switch. Engine started back up normal but it bogged pretty bad for a few seconds when I switched on PTO again. Once it got going everything worked fine after that. Any ideas about that bogging? I don't see any debris caked or sticks jammed and I don't think cold grease should be that stiff anywhere at 40-50F temperatures outside.

 

Added my 3” wheel spacers.


Before stance.





end result.

 

If the battery is good it could be a safety switch engaged or gone bad. Not sure about the slow pto engagement.

 

Yep. PTO on, seat switch, parking brake etc. May need a fuel filter for the bogging.

I was a semi-trailer wreck rebuild mechanic for 13 of my 20 yrs as a mechanic. Strangely enough I have never had a trailer except for a boat trailer and a lawn dump trailer. I need something for my garden tractor forays.

Found a harbor freight 1720lb load rated trailer and picked it up today for $350. It is like new and the owner just put new 1050lb rated tires on it. Nice drive into the hills of Holiday Island, AR. 1.5hrs Northeast of me in the hills and across a one lane suspension bridge. It was a nice day for a drive.

 

Great score! Around here any trailer (even junk) with a title has a $1000 minimum price it seems.
My state is a p-i-a about home built trailer titles, so much that it isn't worth the time.

 

Thanks. I got a title and a really nice little trailer. It does need new wiring. The owner had it cobbled up and I will repack the bearings.

 

Auto store tested battery, said had low charge. They are charging now, will see if it takes a charge.

Safety switches are such a pain. If battery takes the charge, i'll have to figure out how to temporarily bypass or jumper the safety stuff.
No obvious damaged wires i could find.

I just rebuilt a tilt trailer earlier this year. The hinge is a weak point. Check it out real close. I ended up adding some angle and welding the A-frame section solid to the main trailer frame.

 

You can buy the LED light kits for cheap now and have everything brand new.

I put LED lights on my small trailer after I noticed one of the tails not working and decided to "tap" it with my boot..
Seems plastic gets pretty brittle after 10 years or so...

 

Your battery is from 2017, they don't last all that long and don't seem to give much warning when they pack it in.

 

One of the neat thing about those trailers is they have grease zerks in the hubs. As long as you know the hub has never been under water, the grease re pack is super easy. Pull the caps and watch the old grease get pushed out.

 

Hopefully the battery is the culprit. I was just saying make sure the pto is off and the brake on and seat switch depressed. I picked up 2 batteries at Walmart a couple weeks ago for $30 each. I'll check out the pivot on the trailer and weld as necessary.

I may just need a harness. The HF wire is aluminum. The ground wire was crumbling away in my hand--insulation and wire.

I did not know that. I'll take a look. He hauled his kayaks 1/4 mile to the lake on them. I doubt it was put in the water. Trailer looks like new.