Gen 2 Homemade High Clearance Rear Bumper

I appreciate the insight and the confidence boost to upgrade, really. I do want more welding projects and I am definitely willing to step up my game.
When I bought this welder I literally had zero intentions of using it to build truck stuff.
However, to date I have built a lumber rack and my current bed rack, and now my rear bumper.
I was worried about strength integrity and fusion too. The Chicago electric welder only has a min or max voltage setting but as long as the voltage is set to max, I can obtain red hot metal from both sides. However, even though the welder is rated for 3/16, the welds don't go through because I can still see a small void between pieces from the other side. This has lead me to weld everything from both sides. it seems pretty rigid... hopefully.
That would be awesome if you had some budget friendly options for some gas-shielded options. Do tell!

Thanks!

 

Jim,

Although I have never encountered anything like this I do understand where you are coming from. We live in a sue happy world sometimes and liability is always a factor.
Personally, I am not too concerned about something going catastrophically wrong and causing an accident with the bumper itself.
However, I do believe in Murphy's law so this is good food for thought if I want to integrate a hitch down the road.
Plus, I do plan to calculate shear strength and a generous factor of safety rating way prior to physically building my own hitch.
I'm sure it would be as reinforced as the stock hitch if not more.
Thanks,

Connor

 

FWIW I have a Hobart 220v Mig and run 100% CO2 and it's been flawless

 

I have personal experience with both of these welders and they're good. My friend has the eastwood which I've used a couple of times and it works well. The Titanium is one I had for a bit over a year and I loved that thing, I did so much with it.

https://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html

I've since upgraded to a 240v welder when it came time to build my rear bumper. I didn't want any concern of lack of penetration considering I'll be using it to recover people and wanted the option to safely tow a small trailer. If you have the capability/budget for a 240v welder, I highly recommend it. I had to build my own extension cord to grab power from my dryer outlet (renting this house) but it's worth it. For the longest time, I was like "120v is just fine for these trucks. Look at all this stuff I've done with it." Then I got the 240v and was blown away at how much smoother and more efficient the welder runs, and how much better it handles thicker steel.

This is 1/4" to 1/4" and I have no concern whatsoever winching off this thing.

 

Update: I made a ton of progress last night. Finished welding, grinding, cleaning, priming and painting. I even got the lights installed.
The tape measure picture is dark but it shows the bottom of the bumper is 27" off the ground at the back tires.
This is basically done, I just need to wire up the reverse lights and presto.

 

more pics

 

Any chance i can get a copy of the plans? have been thinking of doing the bed chop, and I have fabrication tools, and this seems like a fun project, and a nice way to possibly save a bit of cash.

 

Very nice work. I especially like the side facing rock lights. I am curious how close the Hi-Lift jack is to the tailgate when you put it in the slots. You might need to remove the tailgate when you use the Hi-Lift.

 

Good job! I think it came out great.

 

Thanks for the info on those welders. I'd love to make some welds like that... the fillet is way nicer than what i was capable of creating with the flux core non shielded. I think i have have convinced myself to go with a 240 for the same reasons you mentioned. That migmax 215 from Harbor Frieght seems like a good pick.
My brother-in-law has a 220 miller welder that he loves too. Ill have to pick his brain on that one as well.

Connor

 

Thanks, definitely a happy camper.

 

The bumper is pretty high and tight which is how i wanted it and you are rightfully curious.
The high lift is still a few inches away from the tailgate when lifting from the bumper.
If you had to change a tire, you are still probably better off using sliders as a lift point for the high lift to keep one side of the truck down. Honestly, i still prefer using the stock crank jack sometimes and just lift the truck up from the axle or lower control arm.
Using a safe spot to lift from is always the main priority but I like having the lift points on the rear bumper if I need them, i just have to remember 4wd to keep the front end from rolling.
Thanks for your question!





Edit: I am also on a slight downhill when i took that pic. If i was facing uphill the high lift would be closer to the tailgate. You would just have to be smart (which isnt always) about when to use the rear bumper t-slots i guess.

 

That looks really good on asphalt, but keep in mind on dirt, rocks, gravel, a Hi-Lift can do all kinds of tipping. If you get in a hairy spot, pull the tailgate.

 

First and foremost, I don't want to be responsible for someone else using my design if they decided to add a tow hitch, as brought up in a previous message. Although, I am sure it is possible to design in a hitch that is stronger than factory with this design, it hasn't been done yet. i am trying to clever up a way to do this first.

I was also planning on releasing the drawings to TW but naturally there are a few flaws that i had to manually account for in the building process.
Once I update my CAD files, i will likely release them. The only thing that could change that would be if I stamped this with an engineering approval to sell it as a kit through the laser company.

I'll think about it and let you know while I am revising my drawings over the next few days. Not trying to be a d*ck about holding the design hostage but it could definitely be a marketable product if I can get a DIY/ weld-it-yourself kit somewhere down around $500 shipped. Right now its still a possibility.

Do you have CAD?

Connor

 

Right, I dont disagree with that one bit. Its just an option that needs to be used wisely. What i really need is a laser cut swing out tailgate like those wilco offroad guys make... problem solved.

 

Looks solid bud! I was mulling over doing the the exact same thing myself as I’m also an ME with experience with solidworks... The price of some of these bumpers from CBI etc once you get swingouts and accessories is crazy. 2 1/2 - 3 grand plus would make a sane person do some surprising things. I’m looking at least a month of free time without work so need something to keep me sane and might do a 4-8week road trip of the PNW (including Montana/Colorado/Utah) and could really use a solution for my spare for an extended trip.

Did you consider incorporating the factory tow hitch into the design somehow, like building off of it or chopping and using the majority of it as part of your design?

 

Yo! I'm bringing this back from the dead to see if you're comfortable releasing the as-is files for us nerds in the Tacoma fabricator wasteland. We have tables and need bumpers If monetary compensation is a priority, we can PM

 

Nice job and like one of the other guys said Sasquatch is a way cool touch.

 

Anti-spatter spray will add $10 an hour to your weld quality and clean things up nicely.

 

Thing looks pretty nice. The only thing for me is I wouldn't be comfortable cutting my bed panel's... And I would have to have the receiver integrated...