Brakes still squishy and unresponsive after flush/bleed

If you're doing this by yourself, just get a Motiv power bleeder... It makes life so much easier.

 

Power bleeders aren't very reliable. I use one sometimes and have better results with someone pumping the brakes. Takes much less time with someone in the vehicle.

 

I choose to completely disagree with you. I did it the good 'ol fashioned way until recently, the motive power bleeder made flushing brake fluid out, and bleeding my brakes soooooo much more consistent. The only concession I'll make is that ensuring the cap is sealed to the MC can require a few attempts. I eventually found a hole saw that was the exact diameter as the lip of the MC and made a cut into the rubber bushing in the power bleeder which pretty much made it a sure bet.

 

You're in the minority as plenty of people I know hate the pump. The 2-man method is much quicker and works flawlessly.

 

Some of us aren't so lucky to always have an extra foot on hand. You and your 2-man cohort can "hate the pump" as you say, but the reality is that for a majority of DIY folks, power bleeders are a better solution as the power bleeders constantly move fluid through the system without introducing air. I'd go so far as to say that if you haven't had better results with a power bleeder, you don't know the difference, and you're doing it wrong.

Not to mention, that while you can "flush" a system via the 2-man method, is extremely inefficient compared to a power bleeder. I think your only hope for a decent argument, involves cases when you know you only need to bleed the absolute extremities of the brake system. If only the end of the brake line has air in it.. then not dealing with a bottle/seal/power bleeder might be quicker.. but I think that's so far out of reality for most maintenance work, that's not in the scope of discussion.

I constantly battled brake sponge using the 2-man method until I got a power bleeder. Once I got the Motiv bleeder (and got the adaptor to seal to the MC) my brakes have never felt better. And I am an original owner- that's 20 years of experience on this platform.

And the only reason I am adamant about posting and arguing this is that telling people they can get the same result or better on their own without a power bleeder, is just false. And even if you have two people, there is room for error (sequence of pump / and when the bleeder is opened and closed). That error does not exist with a power bleeder- there is simply always fluid and always pressure. No chance for air to get into the system from either the MC or bleeder side of the system.

 

I've had good results with the Motive Power Bleeder as well. Otherwise, I recommend picking up some solo brake bleeders like earls. As far as the pedal being squishy... Have you tried purposefully activating the abs module with a few panic stops and then re-bleeding the system? Sometimes bubbles can get trapped in the abs module. Other than that, bleed the master, check for excessive grease on pads, rotors, and drums, and double check the drums star wheel adjustment as others have mentioned. You might check the brake lines and their connections for any pin holes or loose connections too.

 

I have the exact same problem, I recently replaced the master hoping to fix it but no change. The pads, rotors and drums are acceptable, new front hoses, recent Napa calipers. I had Monroe flush the fluid and power bleed it afterwards. It stops just like yours. Crappily. Gotta press em pretty good. I’m wondering if my 22 yr old booster is crapping out

 

Does anyone know if the thin paper gasket between the booster and master is imperative? What's its purpose? Just contact or does it suppose to seal in air when the booster pushrod is depressed? Asking bc my truck didn't have one on and I bought one from the dealer and installed it and its already starting to disintegrate.

 

1995-2004 Toyota Tacoma - Brake Proportioning Valve -or- Pressure Metering Valve 4791035320 - these are located on the rear wheels near the center. I had a slow brake fluid leak on the left rear one. My mechanic installed new rotors, brake pads, replaced and bled all the brake lines for $262. Dealership $775

You can place orders that are VIN specific on this site. Their prices are lower than Leith, Mark Jacobson and Fred Anderson Toyota.
https://toyotaparts.bochtoyotasouth.com/account/login

 

Any chance you have the part numbers and/or links to the bleeder and adapter that works well on our trucks?

 

The motiv power bleeder is pretty standard, you should be able to find it on Amazon. Motiv doesn't sell a Toyota adapter other than the "Universal" one, which honestly, is not great. There are a few amazon/ebay solutions with adapters you might be able to find out there. I ended up just machining my own on a metal lathe. Before that though, I used a hole saw which was the same size as the opening on the master cylinder and cut a groove into the rubber gasket on the universal adaptor about 1/2 the depth of the gasket. Then applied a dab of grease on the groove, lined everything up, and tighten down the chain/tensioning system. You could mark the MC opening on the gasket and Dremel the groove in too.

I've done a few brake fluid flushes on some of my friend's rigs at this point, and can't recommend the motiv power bleeder enough.