The N light not lighting up

I’d check for power at the conn

I agree.
Here is the pinout for the connector. (Thanks @caribe makaira )
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/will-not-start.742764/#post-26449202

This what the PNS looks like

 

Chicken bones say: PCB board LED has finally failed.

 

Are they related to these

 

If OP really wants to fix this, and doesn’t want to crawl on the ground (first)
I suppose I could post up the pinout of the connectors PB and PC and their location?
It would involve gaining access to the panel behind the glove box.

I don’t know the Logic of the ECU, one might think there would be a P0705 code associated with a bad PNS? But I honestly don’t know?

I personally wouldn’t care. There would be no “N” light as long as owned the truck.

 

The ECM doesn't have a P or N input according to the diagram, those only go to the cluster.

 

Can you start the truck in Neutral?

If it does start in neutral it is just a blown LED in the cluster most likely.

If it doesn't start in neutral it may be an issue with the switch or the wiring.

 

Neutral circuit for starting (pin 5) is separate from the Neutral indicator circuit (pin 9)

 

NSW check pin 4 it’s used for starting (I think)

 

Correct and it comes from pin 4 of the Range Switch.

 

@Dm93

You are likely correct.
Key words - MORE THAN ONE.
I looked up P0705 here is what it said

“When the park/neutral position switch sends more than one signal at a time from switch positions P, R, N, D, 3 or 2, the ECM interprets this as a fault in the switch. The ECM will turn on the MIL and store the DTC.”

 

Nope...

These:

 

Thanks for the correction.

 

At this point we might as well go all in.
Just check pin #1 of the PC connector.
If it has power, pull dash connector (which doesn’t sound fun)

 

Park and Neutral position from Park/Neutral Switch just provide juice for dash indication...
Now, a failing switch would bring up many other things.

Edit:


Neutral & Park are also tied to other systems. But the OP didn't state he had any other ones...

 

Looks like OP has a whole bunch of options.
I’m stick with checking the PB/PC connector.
Because that seems easier than crawling on the ground and pulling an instrument cluster.

 

Ok, I agree it isn’t the end of the world! I do have a bigger problem but that’s on another post.

 

Yes, I replaced that switch the other day. New OEM neutral safety switch. B#$€ to change but works fine.

 

Just didn't want you to throw a cluster at it without verifying it was bad.

 

Did you do this step when you installed it?

Setting the neutral position.