MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

It won't flex anymore once the slot is cut. There no more negative pressure.

Just reassemble like stock.

 

I have not pulled mine apart at all. I am assuming the flat disk is the accumulator and flexes when you press the clutch? If so even with the groove can the plate not still flex?

 

bernoulli principle...take away the venturi, take away the pain

 

Next thought…

what is the diameter of the accumulator disk? I can machine up some new disks that could simply replace the back disk. No modification to the housing necessary, just slide in a new disk.

I would need a few measurements to do so but it should be a very easy project. I have some 6061 rod here to use for it

 

Might as well throw me on the list

 

someone needs to change this thread title to Accumulator Mod and remove the Delete. and i have just no idea why you don't just remove the thing and hardline it. .

 

People want the accumulator drilled out so it looks stock from the outside and the dealerships know nothing. ?

 

I did the Dremel method since it seemed least prone to future leaks compared to flanged this and that.

 

It’s right there in Tony’s signature. We do it the hard way the first time, everything is easy after that

Having done the hard line myself, I would only swap back to a drilled accumulator if I had a leak or got flack from the dealer about it. Both seem very unlikely. But, since my accumulator is sitting in a bin with other takeoffs, I’ve thought of taking the dremel to it myself. What stops me is the lack of perfection in such a mod, it clearly looks modified. But a milled version would eliminate that concern, you’d have to know the part in excruciating detail to understand that it has been modified. Which is the angle I’d most like if I were doing this again on a new truck.

 

Yes. Stock, the plate would be pulled inward, not flexed, to decrease the flow. After the ADM, it no longer does that.

 

It's not the disk that needs to be replaced. About the only other mod variation would be finding a thicker, stiffer square seal that would allow folks to ditch the wire shim on the outside. That extra space may be enough to kill the flow reduction?

 

It's still the ADM in my mind. This summer, I swapped out my original mod to use @Shellshock 's old accumulator. Hahahaha!

I started to get less comfortable with the safety wire support, which was still in tact after about 40k.

 

Nope. It is just the easiest route to this whole deal, IMO.

We have almost no warranty on the clutch system when new. So, that was never a concern for me.

 

okok. but it seems the pattern is that i come back about once a year and ask the same question with the same emoji.

so,

 

I need some measurements but from there I’m pretty sure I can machine up a single piece that accomplishes the purpose of the ADM.

 

Of course. A few people have talked about that. The big issue is the pressed in brass seats for the fittings and the end item cost.

IMHO, pulling the accumulator, hacking at it with a dremel, and whipping it back in less than an hour both delivers the intent of the mod and is crazy economical.

I sent off my accumulator to a friend for the purpose of a swap in part. The above was the outcome.

By all means though. Feel free to give it a shot.

 

Looking forward to it!


It is funny that I can still remember the shit way this Taco drove and shifted when new. It is shocking what a few simple mods can do.

 

Variety of ways to skin a cat.

I need to get on in my hands but I think I can whip up a simple part that should be under $20 to achieve the intent of the adm

 

Most certainly!

I'm looking forward to your results.

 

Biggest advantage of the hardline is how much time the fluid line is open. Assuming you don't have a modified accumulator already on hand. With the line ready to go, just pull the accumulator and replace. Very little fluid loss or chance for air in the system.

Either method achieves the same result and a potentially lengthy clutch bleed isn't that big of a deal.