MT Accumulator Delete Mod (ADM) and BS Thread

Dremel method also makes it more likely your mechanic is willing to 1:1 swap your hacked to shit new accumulator.

I was having a real hard time explaining an ADM, let alone telling them how to hardwire it using basically refrigerator cooling system leftovers like some sort of cyberpunk MacGyver.

 

Yeah, before I nutted up and attempted the DIY I got a quote for $150 and “your problem” if anything was wrong. No thank you.

 

From my experience, I had the lines open for about 1.5hrs with I was messing around with the stuff in the 1st Post and taking pics. It bleed well on the first try, but we did two more for insurance.

It was around 30min or so for the dremel mod with the same result.

And, similar results when I helped someone with the hard line mod.

 

I remember doing about 20 rounds of bleed for a total of 40 burpees. With a roll. I got pretty good at it. Figured I might as well burn through the bottle of fluid.

 

Its good to flush the fluid every so many years to keep it fresh anyways... any humidity absorbed in the fluid for 1.5-2hrs procedure would get bled out anyway, non issue imho
I'll be planning on doing this on my 2010 now that I read this thread, thanks everyone for all the work and input on this,
I also want to do a 3rd gen 6spd MT w/ dbl over drive swap...

 

You really needed a helper.

 

Geez finally lol

 

Only 20? I did… a lot

 

Nah! I swapped it in before my big trip back in August. I swear that I told you?

Still, it was on the shelf for quite a while before that. 6mo, maybe?

 

Knocked this mod out on Saturday using the Acura braided line with the banjo bolt. Bled the hell out of it with a helper pushing in/pulling out the clutch pedal. However, the clutch pedal still seems a little slow coming back up off the floor. Maybe my slave cyl spring is weak. It's definitely a more direct feel now but there's rev hang (sometimes/not always) which is still keeping the whole shift process from being as smooth as I'd like. At least the more direct feel makes it feel less truck-like.

 

There is not a spring in the slave cylinder, rather it is the clutch that forces the slave back into position. Could be air in the line (if the level in the reservoir dropped too low at some point during bleeding. I suppose it could be an issue with the clutch itself.

 

My buddy with his mill says he can knock this out for me tomorrow if I can get him the width/depth to mill. How wide/deep are you guys cutting? If he gets me knocked out you can take my name off the list a few pages back.

 

Anything will kill the vacuum that is developed, but you can tell him to just go with the diameter of the ports for both width and depth.

 

@daveeasa

Add me to the list, please and thanks.

 

Ok we are at 6. I bet if we get to 10 we have traction to get going.

 

Who, what, where

 

This post tracks the list.

it’s not a viable option for you unless you replace yours with a hard line temporarily. But if we get it done you could buy one and skip the dremel part yourself which might streamline mod time.

 

Ah thanks I did ask in this post, if anyone could help with this mod and got no replies. No worries, I think I see a 4 Runner in my future anyway.

 

It’s a rite of passage. If you have a garage you can do it. Then bleed is the only hard part. The rest is basic wrenching. Nothing is remotely hard if you have parts and tools.

 

I am getting a hardline ADM done on Saturday with a part I bought from Trident904 over a year ago. Is there any advantage of going with the dremel method over the hard line besides stealth and not having to bleed? From what I have read, Trident904 tested his products for leaks so I should not really expect any problems there, right?

Might be interested in sending my accumulator in to get dremeled as a backup I guess. Let me see how the hardline goes and I might add myself to the list.