TRAC OFF and CIL light illuminated suddenly

I gave up on mine and have missing plugs. I actually have a light spot through the plastic where I pushed too hard.

I purchased a replacement panel and gave myself time to fit it properly, and gave up. I’ll fit it eventually.

 

Yeah I hope I never have to mess with that stupid panel.

 

Well the CEL and TRAC OFF lights have come back. Same codes (P0352, P0354 and P0356). Truck is running rough sporadically at idle and has went back into limp mode a couple of very short times while I was driving it at varying speeds this afternoon, for over 10 miles. I will be taking it in to the dealer tomorrow. Will update this thread once they have looked at it.

Still seems like another fuel pump issue to me. Just not sure. I hope they can figure it out quickly.

 

Dang...sorry man. Hopefully they can pipoint the issue quickly.

 

Well, dropped it off at the dealer and they made their diagnosis. They said three bad coils in bank 2. Coils B,D and F. Tech said he checked all wiring and it looked good, said he also checked for intake leak (non found). Expressed my concern that about suspecting some other common denominator possibly affecting the coils; maybe failing ECM or injector (as I have been reading elsewhere).

They ordered the coils ($657.00) and extended warranty should be covering it. I really hate for the error codes to return but have to wait and see. Parts should be here by 2:00pm and hopefully my truck will be done end of day.

Truck drives fine until it's sufficiently warmed up and then it starts running rough sporadically. This morning it did just that; drove fine to the dealer (11 miles) and after I sat idling for approximately 20 minutes waiting for them to open, it started missing and running rough again.

Why the coils fail after it's warmed up is the mystery. Why are the other coils not failing in bank 1? I wish he swapped the coils between the cylinder heads but apparently that's not how they are troubleshooting it. If it happens the next time, I will ask them to do that, to see if the error follows the coils in their new location.

 

All fixed (I hope). Three new ignition coils installed on bank 2 ($350.40 and labor $200.00 = $550.40) All covered under extended warranty. Hope these last more than 18, 000 miles... Truck is purring like a kitten again.

 

But the burning question is still 'why'?

What you describe sounds most unusual.

Glad it's running again........

 

Did they pull and inspect plugs? All 3 coils failing on the same side seems like a clue to a cause. Supply power (all on same branch of harness/same sub harness?) or working too hard because plug problems or cylinder problems causing plug issues?

 

I agree with you and Clearwater Bill. Besides confirming the PIDS I don't think the tech pulled the plugs or went further troubleshooting besides doing a visual check of the wiring. I'll certainly be bringing it back to them again if I see these codes pop up, and will push for more detailed troubleshooting.

I am wondering too, if the ignition coils were actually fine but there is an issue with the wiring between them or the ECM. Why does the truck run fines and then sporadically run rough. If those ignition coils were certainly non functioning wouldn't the truck be running rough all of the time?

 

Glad I found this thread. Looks like "we're in this together" as I have ALMOST the exact same year and model of truck and experienced the exact same issue. Both 2018 TRD Off-Road 4x4 V6 Cement Tacomas, only difference between you and me is that you have an access cab and I have a double cab. Not only that but my truck experienced the same issue at the approximate same mileage and within a month of each other. I am almost at 18,000 myself.

Went to AutoZone for them to pull the codes. Same exact codes: P0356, P0354 and P0352

I'm calling the dealership first thing tomorrow. Wish me luck, I don't have "extended warranty" but doesn't this fall under powertrain warranty? If it doesn't, haven been the second person(that we know of) with this exact same problem, it seems like this might eventually become a recall item and may be affecting others.

 

I’m having the same problem 355,353,351 codes truck running rough and they checked the coils all good they the dealer thinks it’s the tune I’m stumped on my 18 Tacoma

 

Have you had any luck

 

Truck just threw a P0303 code yesterday. Running like crap after it gets warmed up, CEL light is on and occasionally flashes, TRAC light returned too.

just took it to the dealer this morning and they’re going to get the shop manager involved with it. I asked for a loaner and they gave me a Corolla. At least I have wheels until I get it back.

So I now have 19k miles on my 2018. I have an extended
Warranty but I’m getting disgusted with my truck and the undependability that is developing with it. I should’ve waited to accessorize it. Just depressing.

 

Got my truck back been to the dealership they sucked and then to a speed shop truck still has a part time sputtering and miss fires and a of a sudden it’s run great have the 3 ignition codes still I’m wondering about a O 2 sensor or the EMC Is bad I’m still stumped afraid to go very far

 

Let me know what you’re dealership tells you thanks

 

Just got word from the dealer that it was the actuator shaft snapping off in the intake plenum. They've ordered the new intake with the plenum door; thank gawd I purchased the extended warranty because it's a 1300.00 repair according to them.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2016-tacoma-in-limp-mode-fixed.659782/

I really appreciate the information in the above link that I just referenced above. The service manager commended me for offering it to them, and also said that Toyota has a TSB out about this.

This Tacoma board is invaluable to all of us, and I thank the OP of the referenced thread lstrople for finding this issue and posting about it

 

I was the one who sent a report to toyota when my dealer suggested a $12,000 engine swap because part of it had fallen off and was holding #1 cylinder intake valve open. I took it to my mechanic and they pulled the part out of the valve and haven't had a problem since then with 6000 mile on it already. Much cheaper than a engine swap.

 

Are you saying that part of the plenum door inside of the intake was holding your #1 cylinder intake valve open?

 

Yes because before it completely wouldn't start I was trying to find the problem(checked coilsand replaced spark plugs). It would run but go in limp mode with the track and cel coming on. I could kill the engine and restart it then as soon as I needed to pass someone and give it gas. The limp mode would occur. Then after a few days it would start but run real rough. I took it to the dealership and the checked the gas, computer, and changed the spark plugs again. They even said it could be my aftermarket remote start I put on when it was new. None of that fixed it. Then they ran a leak down test and found #1 cylinder wasn't holding at all. They suggested a full engine repair so I declined and took it to my mechanic. While waiting for him to start working on it I found that post about someone else having the similar problem which I posted here on #2 comment. My mechanic took the intake off and found that part broken and the little round spacer had fallen and was holding the intake valve open. He removed it and put everything back together and has been running fine since. I took the broken part to the dealership and showed them and they had never heard of the problem before. I then sent my findings and the original post on TW to toyota to make sure it is known to them. Everyone needs to report to Toyota of this problem so the don't get con into a $12,000 engine swap or parts they don't need replaced. My 2018 truck had 176,000 miles on it and everything was coming out of my pocket. Luckily I stumbled across the original post where he found what his problem was.

 

When your mechanic put your plenum back on, did he source and install a new plenum with the ACIS actuator door, or just install the original plenum without the door?