Magnuson Supercharger Mega Thread for 16+ Tacoma - Unboxing, Install DIY, Dyno Video

@a2lowvw and @Formidable are pretty much in the "just drive it" phase, still making a few tweaks here and there but...looking really good. Can start looking more closely now at stuff like shift logic. I know it sounds simple, "just add in the OVT shifting goodness!", But you'd be surprised how much shift points change off of even small torque target adjustments.

These guys are at sea level.

Still working on adjustments for high elevation (5/6000 - 8500ft). At those elevations, people might find it worth it to consider smaller pulleys, seeing as they're not likely to be seeing a ton of boost on the 90mm pulley anyway.

 

There’s a market for purchasing these pulleys and selling them with the tune, to help insulate the end user from impacting their Magnuson warranty, if that is a concern.

 

Sounds good to me since I’m a manual guy anyway AND coming from OV Tune.

 

Just use a different name or email for the order. If they question why a smaller pulley was sent to your address just say your roommate bought a Camaro or something with a magnuson blower. It’s not like they are going to send an inspector to check your garage.

 

I’m not sure how you make payment without revealing your name, either on your credit card or your PayPal account.

 

All I’m saying is there is no way Magnuson is going to dig through their transaction data to check if the shipping name matches the card name, and confirm if you own multiple boosted vehicles or not.

And if you’re really worried you can buy the pulleys on summit or several other suppliers. Just search the part numbers magnuson lists to be sure you’re getting a TVS1900 pulley.
https://superchargersonline.com/pro...rgers-heartbeat-direct-injection-pulley-87mm/

 

I was just pointing out that there was an opportunity there since you wouldn’t want to just throw the pulley on without compensating for it in the tune.

 

Yeah I understand your point. I tend to not believe in warranties to begin with so I’ve never cared about breaking them (usually immediately). But other people think differently.

The way I see it the tune itself would void the warranty as well, but again there’s no way they are going to find out if you don’t volunteer that info.

 

Exactly, it’s easy to revert to Magnuson V7 if something goes wrong and replace the original pulley. If there is an associated engine failure that costs thousands of dollars, not having the pulley show up as something else that MAY have caused the failure is better for your case.

 

Background update.

I have run the Magnuson tune back to back with Yotawerx for every other revision provided. This was done to verify continual improvement over the baseline. The degree of collaboration that’s going on behind the scenes and the amount of time and effort that @mZiggy @a2lowvw @tonered has put into this tune to get to this point is absolutely ridiculous. @tonered test drove this truck to verify improvements and do some data logging on his laptop. @tonered also helped adjust this tune in the passenger seat while strapped to the dyno. I got a speeding ticket testing out a revision… @a2lowvw has provided continual and consistent feedback with revision after revision, data logging every single adjustment. @tonered also test drove @a2lowvw truck. I think @a2lowvw also got pulled over data logging and luckily dodged a ticket. We now have a 100 page private message thread going on this forum. The collaboration and time suck involved is absolutely ridiculous, and this community will benefit greatly from it.

I think the effort that @mZiggy is putting into the tune to accommodate folks at elevation is above and beyond. We already know folks at elevation will run less boost and less fuel from the get go on the stock pulley. The biggest upgrade for them will be the smaller pulleys, the degree of which will need to be determined based on elevation and boost pressure, (yes all of you should pick up and install a boost gauge, as well as an AFR gauge if you can).

Going into the final stages Magnuson vs Yotawerx. For every aspect of the tune… Yotawerx wins. You guys are in for a treat.

 

I’m also getting things done to address some shortcomings encountered on the dyno. These include an upgraded clutch to handle the power expeditiously ordered, shipped and scheduled to be installed this week as well as a rear disc brake conversion due to the shitty OEM drums sticking. There are other things I have not yet mentioned that add significant time and cost to make sure the end Yotawerx product is as expected. I have no stake in this game. I just want a working tune that can accommodate smaller pulleys, (especially when fuel upgrades become available) and run more boost whenever the hell I please.

 

Some screen shots on the dyno, AFR and boost gauge setup, and dialing in fuel based on AFR on the street.

 

I for one can appreciate the time and effort you guys have invested in this. I’m impressed with your dedication and will have no trouble with investing in your tune when the time comes. I’m very much looking forward to this once I get my SC installed.

Now on the gauges; I’ve been planning on both a boost and AFR gauge. I understand how nice it would be to monitor the boost (or lack of is there’s an issue) but I haven’t spent enough time researching the advantage of monitoring the air fuel ratio. Can somebody explain the basics of this?

Also, after researching all the gauge mounting options I think I’m going with the Ortiz Dual Pod Pillar mount. Pretty expensive but it sure would look cool. I’m just glad I got my money back on that stupid drivers side grab handle! LOL
The gauges I’m leaning towards are the Speedhut gauges. It looks like they’re highly customizable. You get to pick the colors, needle styles, lettering style, lighting, etc. Has anyone used these gauges in the past?

 

I had my boost gauge in the left driver side vent when I had my TT Tacoma.

Got the mount from @Bigetaco22 worked out nicely there. Was nice to have to sorta out of the way but look over at it somewhat conveniently.



I wouldn't recommend this type of setup for two gauges though, since your other vent would be taken up too. Air gets around it by design, so it remains functional, but still...

Regarding the value of wideband AFR, the ecm can only see a max richness of 0.814 lamda / 11.9-12.0 AFR. Just because your tune "targets" a set AFR does not mean you will always be at that AFR. If you are not, knowing is the first step towards correcting it.

 

You’re going to really enjoy the supercharger. Especially with this Yotawerx tune onboard. I can always go back to the Magnuson tune at any time but I have zero desire to do so.

Regarding the boost gauge. Installing a boost gauge is always a good idea. Particularly for turbocharged cars with boost control, but also for supercharged applications. If your truck’s throttle response falls flat, it could be due to a number of reasons. Knowing what the boost is doing quickly allows you to determine if you have a vacuum or boost leak somewhere, possibly an installation issue, a preemptive hint as to whether there may be an issue with the rotors or the bypass valve getting stuck in the open or closed position. It also allows you to determine how much boost you’re getting at elevation. The boost gauge plug in the back of the supercharger is there for a reason. Take advantage of it before you install the supercharger. Make sure to choose a gauge that has room to grow. We don’t know how much boost we can run on this TVS 1900 once proper fueling is provided. My guess is 15-20 psi before the stock rods window a block and the trans goes kaput.

Regarding the wideband AFR gauge… you would think the OBD would provide the AFR data via Techstream, VF tune or scan gauge… It’s not as clear cut as you would think. It’s a good idea to install an AFR gauge to see exactly what the fuel and ignition changes made in the tune are doing on the street. It helps you troubleshoot issues as they happen in real time. For example, this truck does not like AFR’s in the 11’s. Power falls flat on it’s face when running rich. At AFR greater than 13 the knock sensors start sending out signals. No CEL. No limp mode. No audible ping. But you wouldn’t necessarily know without an AFR gauge. Despite the target AFR’s that are input into the tune, what manifests on the dyno and street are somewhat different. Obviously you don’t want to be running 13+ when hitting boost at high rpm… but it’s more than that. AFR will change with the type of fuel used, whether you are at sea level or elevation, whether it’s 30 degrees outside or 75. The ECU will adjust for the most part within its limits. Beyond that you and your tuner really have no idea unless you have the data video taped right in front of your face. Is it absolutely necessary? No. Is it a good idea when you start investing in a custom tune? You bet! This thing has paid dividends on the Yotawerx tune development and will continue to do so going forward as we explore smaller and smaller pulleys.

The stock magnuson pulley is 90 mm. The 87 mm is running successfully without issues on the Yotawerx and the 84 mm is already ordered.

 

Thanks John.

I've been wondering which range I should get on the boost gauge. I wouldn’t want too large of a range so the needle wouldn’t move much but still need enough room at the top of the range.

How much boost is typical on the standard pulley? What are you guys seeing on the 87mm diameter pulley?

 

Hey, you guys think an oil catch can would be worth the effort or no?

 

90mm is 7 psi. 8 psi peak just above 6k.
87mm is 9 psi.

Absolutely. You will see the ridiculous amount of oil and sludge in the intake manifold when you remove it.

 

Cool. I FIGURED it would be especially important with the motor under boost.

Have ya came across any good quality kits you like?