Northern Virginia Roll Call

We'll see what happens. I just found out that I will be making a team switch at work (voluntary) and will have work from home options by mid February, probably two weeks home and two in the office. So getting this done on the cheap may not be as big of a priority now. Gas mileage sucks with the KO2's as daily's, and I just rolled 87K on the truck.

What I really want is a version of this with enough negative offset to get rid of the spacers and keep the tires where they are:

 

All tires have a recommended range of wheel width they can be mounted on, it's generally a 3" range. A quick search on the manufacturer's site for that specific size will give you insight.

 

Any suggestions for getting the CV axle back on? I can fell it start mating with the spline but then can't get it any closer than about 7/8". I've made sure the c clip is facing down, tried tapping on it, etc.

 

Tapping? Or smacking?

 

What we used to do with the HMMWV was, line up the splines till they went in some (definite feels for it), Then take a small piece of 2x4 on the other end to protect the splines and smack it with a hammer. those little circlip thingies can be a pain in the ass when they don't want to compress, to close, and pop in.

 

Tapping on the housing by the differential, smacking on the other end.

 

Did you get it?

 

Bill's idea is a good plan. Won't hurt anything.

 

Got it. I suspended the middle of the axle with a ratchet strap off the UCA to get it lined up (per Chris' suggestion to me offline) and then used Bill's idea hitting a 2x4 against the end of the axle. Thanks guys!

 

It's a tad barbaric, but I use the sliding inner joint as a slide hammer and it seated in 3 taps

Edit: oh I see you got it already

 

Everything about the process of getting it out and back in is barbaric

Edit: that's what she said! (sorry, getting a little punchy)

 

just gapped a 4runner in a 40ft bus, lol who would own a 4runner they're so slow.

 

How convenient of me to forget to say…. Keep it all straight in line.

Glad you got it back in there.

 

I like to use a longer version of this style prybar for both removing and reinstalling. The curved tip in between the diff and axle pops it out *relatively* easily. To put it back in, put the tip of the prybar into the notch on the cv and smack it with a hammer. The handle of the bar has a striking cap so it’s meant to be hammered on.

 

The opening of the "C" in the C-clip should be facing UP.
(I'm not sure if this is what you meant by the clip facing down or not.)
I've done hundreds of cv axles at work over the years and I've never had to hammer one back in while using this method. Anyway, glad you eventually got it

 

I tried that (watched your install video on Tacomaholic) but didnt have any luck. Definitely operator error on my part I'm sure.

Not having the c clip facing up could be why I couldn't tap it in with the pry bar. I read a few different TW posts that said it should face down, so who knows? It's in there now, for better or worse!

Edit: just reread your post and realized I didn't answer your question. To clarify, I was referring to the opening of the C clip facing down.

 

Im sure it needs to be down. If in the case that it rotates, you can tap slightly on the part where Randy has the pry bar, and then rotate it. Keep doing that in combination with grabbing the axle shaft part and hard press that into the diff

Either you get lucky and it stays down, or you would need to do the rotate tap thing a few times

 

Just got done with the third brake light fix at Miller Toyota. In and out in an hour.

 

I must live under a rock...is there a recall for that?