What Have You Done To Your 3rd Gen Today?

Well done! Looks like a great family adventure. Great memories. Thanks for sharing.

 

Need available options for the molle bed track panels that are rear mounted. I think rough country is the only one I’ve seen but is there anything else out there?

I had to remove the Cali because it interfered with the new divider and my preferred placement. Plus having less occupy the track space would be nice

 

Victory has the best molle panels for the bed, in my opinion, for two reasons: 1. they don't cover the bed lights. 2. They actually mount behind the track freeing up the entire track.

https://www.victory4x4.com/product/VT23RMP-PC.html

 

Prinsu cab rack. Purchased from @Truck Brigade during black friday for an awesome deal!

 

Ok I did see that one and immediately no I just don’t like a lot with this one so I forgot it on my earlier post. I don’t have the cutouts in the bed for the new version lights so I won’t be needing that and the big squares towards the back don’t do it for me/unnecessary but would also get in the way of other accessories I have mounted. Thank you though

any other rear track mounted panels besides r/c or victory?

 

Putco?
https://www.putco.com/molle-panels

Not sure what you're expecting. They all seem to be about the same.

 

Installed my Black Friday buys... a MX4 BakFlip and my seat jackers...

 

Messing around with new AluCab & Frontrunner gear

 

Completed my diesel heater, did a 12 hour test run, posted on TW and headed for a drink

 

well this is fucking sick!

 

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/2022-tacomaworld-calendar-submission-information-bs.746677/

 

Or just move the A to the end. It’ll still read/sound T’ COMA.

 

Not who you asked, but...
The strip is flexible. When I installed mine, I just diverted it over the access port. Not an issue. Will never have to cut it to lower the spare.

 

Found a good deal on some new wheels/rubber. Very happy with getting rid of the stock steelies.

also got some desert does it seat jackers installed, that’s exactly what it needed

 

Do you still have your old red ones?

 

Well yesterday, did the front brakes new pads and rotors.

 

Got rid of the bulbous nose.




Here's the link for the silicon plate frames I'm using.

$20 Aujen Silicone License Plate Frames,2 Pack Black Side-Opening License Bracket Holder with Easy Installation, License Plate Cover Without Obstruction.Rustproof, Rattle Proof & Weatherproof Universal

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MF38N9Q?ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

 

THANKS, and since you asked, I’ll do a post on how to pass wire and/or cable through the Tacoma firewall for interior wiring of switches, power taps, and coax cable. Not all 3rd Generation Tacoma models are identical, so options for your model may vary. I’m doing install on a 2017 Off-Road with automatic transmission.

The EASY WAY - use this for single wire and/or cable pass (about one hour of easy work). First, orient yourself to the diver’s side of the engine compartment, looking toward the rear of the truck near the firewall at the wheel well join. You will see a boot/grommet used for passing a wiring harness. Using a Phillips screwdriver, carefully lift the edge of the boot and work the tool in and around the sheet metal until it’s fully inside.



Then, go under the dash and see where it came out. Remember, the screwdriver is against the sheet metal hole which can “skin” or damage wire. With the screwdriver in the hole, and from the engine compartment, fish a heavier gauge looped copper wire through the hole by using the screwdriver to make room.





From the interior of the cab, attach the wire you need to pull to the looped copper wire, making certain it’s protected. From the engine compartment, gently pull the looped copper wire back until it reaches the boot/grommet. Using the screwdriver, again lift the edge of the boot, making room for the wire to pass. I recommend using plastic loom in this area to prevent chaffing.







Once complete, adjust the pulled wire to length, cut and make connections.



The HARD way - use this for multiple wire and/or cable passes (several hours of harder work). First, orient yourself to the diver’s side of the engine compartment, looking toward the rear of the truck near the firewall at the wheel well join. Behind and below the brake controller you will see an unused firewall grommet. This will be the entry point. Remove this grommet with a flat bladed screwdriver.



Purchase a Daystar Universal Firewall Boot, which accommodates 3/8" to 1" diameter wire bundles, model

$15 KU20040BK , Made in America , Black

KU20040BK, commonly available on Amazon for less than $15.



Follow the product directions for drilling a hole. I located the hole by first puncturing the firewall carpet from the engine compartment with a sharp dike to mark it, then used a step bit from the inside to widen the hole. Drill slowly, not fast. Check your hole sizing frequently and carefully. Once you start drilling, you’re committed.





When finished, the hole should be roughly 1.25” in diameter (check product requirement). Then, pull the boot through and push it firmly into the hole until you feel the outer edge seal (it “pops”). The boot is designed to be trimmed for how many wires you need to pass.





Finally, push your wires through, trim to size, and zip tie to seal. My first run was 3 wiring harnesses. I trimmed about half of it. My final run added two coax and ten 12g wires, requiring all of the boot.









Hope this helps. Please respond with questions if needed.

 

Well then Rough Country or Putco (as comeone else mentioned) is probably your best bet. Pretty much every molle bed panel on the market, from what I've seen, will take over the OEM bed rail. Gonna have to give somewhere...or spend a shit load of money and have something custom fabricated.