Let’s see some subwoofer setups!

Maybe ill just tap into the head unit.

 

yep, just connect safely all remote wires you need together with the rem from HU and that will work

 

I went with the mono amp. 50% off for Black Friday though Best Buy and I went with an "Open Box - Excellent" condition for another $15 off. So now I have to pick out a sub. I'm not seeing too many good deals on 10" subs. The best deal I've found is Walmart (of all places) for a Polk 1042 SVC.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Polk-DB1...woofer/652287651?wl13=3786&selectedSellerId=0

It's a shallow mount 10" sub that can handle the 300W RMS output of the amp.

On the flip side of that, Best Buy has a JBL 12" sub that is rated to handle 250W RMS and up to 1000W peak. I'd rather a 10, but $29 for a sub that is normally priced $129 seems like a hard one to pass up. I plan on making a custom sealed box FWIW.

https://www.bestbuy.com/site/jbl-gx...4-ohm-subwoofer-black/6283643.p?skuId=6283643

Should I go for it? Says that it requires 6" mounting depth, which I'm thinking is doable with removing the back plastic storage bins.

What say you?

 

I am not sure if 6" would fit, but I also see that sub has a vent on the magnet, so you must have room between the magnet and the box or it may overheat.
Not sure if the 6" takes that in to account.

 

Thanks. I think I'm gonna hold out to see if any shallow mount 10s go on sale.

 

My setup in my 2010 Tacoma I just sold is in the image. It was an ok setup, but when I originally installed it, it was incredibly underwhelming…. For reference, I had stepped down from a 1x15” and 2x12” Kicker L7 setup in a 2004 Monte Carlo. I couldn’t tell if the SQ was any good because it was too loud haha.

I am looking at this thread for ideas on my new (to me) 2018. I’m debating between dual Memphis Mojo 6.5” vs a single 10” Kicker L7T. I’m leaning more toward the Memphis setup.

 

Just finished my 10" MB Quart Discus. Wanted to make as few modifications to the truck as possible. I probably would have been just fine with an 8".

 

This is what I like to see. How's it sound? I'm about to start on a custom box for the back of my truck and was planning on removing the plastic panel in the back, but maybe I don't have to....also planning on going with a single 10.

This probably isn't the right terminology, but I think 8s are too "punchy" and 12s are too "throaty"....10s strike the perfect balance between them where you get good bass but still get good punch.

 

Taking the plastic out provides quite a bit more room, also its 4 screws and goes back in very easily if you ever sell your truck. Just saying

 

Yeah, I'm planning on removing the plastic bins.

 

It sounds decent for what I have set up. I have spent a fair amount of time adjusting the amp and system to make it sound good. I think part of my issue with overall sound is I am running a stock head unit and my Alpine 4ch stereo amp is using speaker level inputs and I used a Line out converter for my Kicker amp for the sub. In all honesty if you want to keep the stock stereo (Which I do) the best thing it to probably run a multi-channel converter like the Audio Control and connect your amp(s) to that. I have had many different setups over the last 25 years all built and installed myself. This is not the best and not the worst. For me now it is plenty. I understand what you are saying about the 8 vs 10 vs 12. I have mostly had 12" subs but they were in either cars or SUV's. Working with a truck is different and this is my first time with one.

 

I'm running a Kenwood DDX3 head unit running to a Kenwood KAC-314 4channel amp that powers the JBL GX speakers in all 4 doors. I ran the RCA cables and remote turn on to where I will mount a KAC-511 mono amp to power the sub. All that's left is to run power and ground, pick a sub and build the box. The numbers are pointing me toward the Polk DB1042 SVC sub.

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-R7VFrhkUC8L/p_107DB1042S/Polk-Audio-DB-1042-SVC.html

Its a shallow mount 10" 4-ohm marine rated sub that can handle both the RMS and MAX W output of the amp that I have. It's about the only sub I've found that checks all those boxes (don't really care about the marine rating) for under $100. I'm pretty sure Polk is a good brand, but this sub happens to be sold in store at my local Walmart for about $30 less than Crutchfield. The fact that it is an in-store item at Walmart leaves me questioning the quality, but it checks all the boxes....

 

Its a 100 dollar sub lol or 70 dollar...… how good could it be. I am sure it will work though and get the job done. Its like the honda of subs and a better one like lets say a Memphis audio would be a Mercedes. Just better build quality

 

These are pretty much my thoughts as well. However, it's the only sub I've found that checks the boxes (10", SVC, shallow mount, 300W min RMS, 1000W min peak, affordable).

The question mark I have on my "check boxes" is the 1000W minimum peak. My amp is 300W RMS @ 4ohm and says 1000W x 1 MAX, but doesn't specify the ohms. I assume that is at 2 ohm and my actual peak would be something closer to 500W @ 4 ohm. BUT....that not being specified and I have found subs that have a 300W RMS and 1000W Peak handling capability, I feel better knowing that I don't have to worry about blowing it.

Perhaps I'll just save up a bit longer and get an Alpine (like this one:https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SWT10S4/Alpine-SWT-10S4.html?tp=111)

Actually, I like this one and it is about halfway between the two: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_500SW10D2/Alpine-S-W10D2.html?tp=111. Now I gotta figure out if the dual 2 ohm voice coils will like the power supplied from my 300W RMS 4 ohm amp.

 

Someone check my math.

That Alpine sub is 600W RMS (300W per coil) @ 2 ohm. My amp is 300W x1 @ 4 ohm (or 500@2 per the manual).

So if that sub is 600W RMS at 2 ohms, that would be about 300W at 4 ohm, right? So then that would be a good match for my amp? If so, that may be my answer.

 

The Alpine is a 300w RMS @2ohm PER VOICECOIL! Wiring it would net you either an 4 or 1ohm load. You can’t use only 1VC, you need to use 2. So, you would need to know wattage of the amp at 4and 1ohm, as well as if the amp is stable at 1ohm, or you risk burning up the amp.

Never consider the “MAX wattage” of an amp. That was a .5 second burst test tone measurement by the manufacturer to publish a higher number to make the amp look more powerful. Always look at the RMS numbers. As well, an amp can be tuned for lower to peak RMS for a certain ohm load. Check google for a “volts to watts to ohms calculator “ to find out settings.

 

Right, so add the two together and you get 600W RMS. At least I think that's still considered a 2 ohm load (300W @ 2ohm + 300W @ 2 ohm = 600W @ 2 ohm prior to wiring in either series or parallel). Once you wire the sub up to a 4 ohm load, wouldn't that essentially cut that wattage in half?

Since the amp is 300W RMS at 4 ohm, I would wire the sub to give a 4 ohm load. Am I hitting the nail on the head, or am I way off base?

I have only considered max because I want the sub to be able to handle any burst. As far as I'm concerned at this point, as you said, is just with RMS.

 

Correct. 300+300 each at 2ohm. But, once you wire it in parallel for example, total impedance rises to 4ohm. Power handling , however, doesn’t change. It’s still a 600W sub.

If you want to feed it 300W @ 4ohms, you are well within power ratings for the sub. Don’t worry about blowing the sub, unless you put the wrong tune in the amp, and feed the sub distortion. That’s the Google calculator I told you to look for. It will tell you the right voltage based on values you input.

I'll give a little explanation as to why there's different ohm subs. From my experience, and others that I've heard from, a 4ohm sub sounds "cleaner, more musical" than a sub wired for 1ohm. 1ohm is a little louder, but the amp has less control over dampening, or subwoofer movement. So it's louder, but not as clean sounding. Basic but a little insight. Decide how you want it to sound, to know how to wire it.

 

This is the part that I was missing. I assumed that since changing the impedance on the amp impacted the amount of power it was able to produce that the same would be true for the subwoofer.

I thought you wanted to be at or near the RMS of the sub for best performance. Will the 600W sub not be underpowered by a 300W amp?

 

It may be that the sub doesn’t reach full excursion, but it will live longer than one on the edge. For better performance, a 500w monoblock amp would be better.