Anything welding

You should be fine, tighten the drive rolls a little if needed, but make sure they slip if you stop/block the wire coming out of the gun

 

They will also get hot as hell. I unroll Them, which Is why I went with reels. It’s so much easier than manually looping them on the rungs. Haven’t had any problems.

 

2.5 months into welding school

12x 4hr days of actual MIG weld practice

Just picked up a new job last Thursday at a fabrication shop, and though they know my only experience is in school, I welded these up today -













Mind you, I've only ever welded with a Miller 255 (inverter based) with Bernard gun so dialing the settings on the CP-302 (transformer based) welder with Tweco gun was a challenge for me

 

This past Summer, I bought an Evolution 14" metal cutting saw. Don't remember exactly what I paid for it, but it was close to $350. To trade paper money for corners like this, no comparison!

I had been using a hand held band saw, and/or 4.5" wheel of death. Man, satisfying as hell to be able to have perfect corners.

 

I would like to see the miters before you weld.

Maintaining a 45* angle while welding is pretty tough. Most times the weld will pull the angle out of true.

I still have trouble with the metal pulling.

 

From my experience it's all the same size and you'll be fine. Different companies just mark it differently, Miller is the one I know of that sells 0.023 tips. I use 0.024 wire through 0.023 labelled tips on my multimatic 215 all the time with zero issues. It's funny because Miller tips are labelled 0.023 but even they only sell 0.024 wire.

 

Thanks for the input. Hobart is the same, .023 tips and. 024 wire, probably because they have the same holding co if I recall correctly.

I'm going to purchase the 23 tip and 24 wire and give it a shot. Combined total from cyberweld is $20 so if it doesn't work out, meh.

 

it'll work just fine. I’ve been doing it for years. Asked the guy at the welding shop the first time and he said it’s the same thing too. I’ve put a few 10lb spools of 0.024 through 0.023 tips.

miller sells consumables like tips and nozzles but they only sell Hobart wire. The new machines even come with Hobart wire.

 

I hear ya. There was literally no gap and the angle was what you see in the pic before I welded it. That saw makes perfect corners. Then, like you said all I gotta do is my part, which is not draw/warp anything.

That's 2" angle and I had it flat side down on my Klutch welding table. Clamped and tacked in 5-10 places, then flipped and welded the bottom (in pic).

 

New Crossmember worked out great!

 

I know, shameless plug for my items for sale, but they do pertain to this thread. They are one of the most useful tools to add to your welding kit.
https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/medium-size-fabrication-squares.747279/

 

those are awesome. I hope you don't mind me using that as my next "project" as I'm in the early learning phase of this. I'll post mine at some point and we can laugh (or cry) at how non-square they are. DIY bed stiffeners are also on my list so this should gear me up for that.

 

I can send you the DFX for them ifr you want.

 

thanks but I'm good. I'm going to stick with rulers and cutoff wheels during my apprenticeship before entertaining the need for DFX files

 

I saw the bumper you welded up; bed stiffeners will be an easy one for ya

 

Made a jig, cause I've got some 30 brackets to weld up that need to be square -



Laid some pieces out after having pictured it in my head



First pieces glued -



All done -



Because the cuts aren't perfect, I'm hoping this jig would help me keep everything square.

So far so good -

 

Seeking advice from the experts here... I am looking to pick up a plasma cutter this christmas, but only if I can get an adequate one with my budget. I'm seeking a low-quality but capable plasma cutter for a few project over the next couple of years, potentially including:

* modifying my bumpers, requiring puncture cuts into up to 1/8 steel, and severing up to 3/8" steel even if it's ugly.
* making a stainless steel battery box out of 14 ga or thinner sheet, wanting to get straight cuts by dragging the tip along a straightedge.
* making terrible art projects where I'll want to trace arbitrary shapes on thin sheet metal (freehand, so it would be easier if I could rest the nozzle on the metal.)
* cutting shapes from perforated or expanded metal, I'd want the kind of cutter that can run continuously over the gaps.

I have 220V and enough air compressor for the intended projects. I'm OK with buying a cheapo tool from China, I understand the value of buying brand-name but my expectations and budget don't justify it in this case. I will probably use it for a couple brief projects per year, and if it craps out, so be it.

I'm looking at this one, but am wondering if anyone can tell me that its specs are inadequate for my needs:

Reboot Plasma Cutter Non Touch 50 Amp CUT50DL 1/2" Clean Cut Air Plasma Pilot Arc 110/220V High Frequency Inverter Machine 3/5'' Max Cutting for Copper Alloy Mild Steel Aluminum

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XYPNQ8M

I would appreciate other recommendations in this price range, or other feedback such as that I simply need to wait until I can afford a better-spec'd unit. Thanks y'all.

 

I’ve had no issues with my everlast supercut 51p. Around 500 bucks. Uses standard consumables and zips through 1/4 and 3/8 like nothing.

 

I run a Miller Spectrum 675. It's a heavy duty unit. I've only ever used another Spectrum cutter.

I can't offer anything about the newer units.

I like using drag tips with straight edges. You can make amazing cuts.

 

https://primeweld.com/collections/plasma-cutters

Good prices. They have $50 off and can usually find other deals and coupons. Good customer service, too.