What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

@unstpible What do you think of those tail lights? They look great. Where'd you get yours?

 

They may give you more articulation but I'm not sure. For me, my cv's would bind before my LBJ's reached their articulation limit, so the lbj wasn't limiting me in terms of articulation. These are the fix for LBJ failures, as they are not LBJ's, they are uniballs. I think anonymous fab just says they won't stop lbj failures on his website for liability reasons.

 

If the design is to fix the failure then wouldn't you want a product that says it does just that. If you can't cover the liability of such then you know it doesn't do as intended.

 

Whoa! Sweet seat delete!

Do you have specs for your box that you can share?

 

A) Anyone who claims an item like one of these parts will "eliminate" failure is an idiot and is opening themselves up to major unnecessary liability. The fabricator can't know what type of conditions these will be used under. Even full on off-road racing components fail under the right conditions.

Even Total Chaos has this in their disclaimer QUOTE: "TOTAL CHAOS is not liable nor held responsible for any injury’s or death that can occur from off-road use or as the result of product failure."

B) Anonymous Fab is basically a 1 man show working out of his garage. It wouldn't be surprising in any way shape or form that he "wouldn't be able to cover the liability" of making an inane claim such as "this will eliminate failure of a component that is known for failure"... and is inherently a wear item that needs periodic maintenance AND replacement.

 

Nailed it. Thanks, seemed obvious but didn’t feel like explaining it.

 

So they do or don't eliminate "LBJ" failures?

 

A 1 inch uni-ball is going to be MUCH stronger than the stock ball joint. I believe the OEM ball joint stud would be about 1/4 inch thinner than the 1 inch uniball. (at the base of the stud where it meets the ball, where these things typically fail)

Also the design of a uniball makes it less likely to fail in the way the OEM ball joint fails because the ball joint is in a socket basically from the mid point of the bracket the ball joint is sitting in. The Uniball extends through the bracket (I'm using bracket for lack of a better term. maybe ball joint body is more accurate).

Also the uniball is easier to inspect, and you can replace the uniball without replacing the entire body, making it less likely the LBJ, as a whole, would fail due to lack of inspection etc.


In short. The uniball design is stronger, easier to inspect, easier and cheaper to replace the actual joint (uniball), than OEM.

 

Inspection
Replacement

That is what eliminares LBJ failures. I'd bet over 90% of the LBJ failures are due to pure neglect.... running them thousands of miles past the point they were already clapped out.

 

I'm talking about premature failures which is also common due to the imperfect design of the whole LCA/LBJ as a whole. I'm not trying to diss on the uniball LBJ as a product. I just here different reasons as to it's purpose.

 

You let a uniball go until the point it pulls through you will get the same result as a failed lbj. The factory bjs don't fail because they are weak. They are worn out well past there service life.

 

Are those gonna last longer than the heim joint things in CO’s?

I’m sure they’re gonna squeak worse

 

See, that's where I disagree.

I don't think you actually see that many "premature" failures. As I said, and I stand behind it... the VAST majority of LBJ failures are from total neglect.

The service life of the OEM LBJs is recommended at something like 65k miles. Then you have people with 200k miles and a failed LBJ, scratching their head and asking why it failed.

What we do to our trucks lowers the expected service life of the LBJ tremendously. That's where regular inspection and replacement comes in as an absolute must.

The uniball LBJ is a bit more costly up front, but after the initial investment, it's much cheaper, and easier to inspect, maintain, and replace the uniball, than to buy OEM complete ball joints every one or two years. That's where I see the benefit to the uniball units.

 

They are Anzo brand. I love them but it was a fight to get them to work at first. They are wired for a 99 tacoma not the 03/04
They can be found in a couple different styles on ebay and Amazon

 

I guess I better add it to the list

 

Not so much 'today' but last few days: Designed and 3D printed a 'switch panel' to hold an inexpensive LED temperature display where the ashtray should go. I am in Oregon and this time of year it is nice to know if it is near freezing. Pics to follow and I will share the stl file when I refine it a bit more. You can find the display via Amazon search for B01L1DLPWG. Now I need to decide where to put the thermistor....

 

Not sure that they are easier to replace. You still need to remove the 4 bolts, otr and stud bolt to remove the uni, no? At that point you're on you way to reinstalling a new lbj as opposed to heading to the bench to knock the uni out and press another in.

What is there to maintain on an OEM joint? Uni adds maintenance if anything.

Not sure how inspection gets much easier with the OEM style either, jack wheel off ground, put pry bar in place, pry and look for movement. This will be the same for the uni also.

Unless they last a handful of years I do not see any benefit to them. I also don't see any benefit to OEM over the cheaper Moogs that are going at least 3x longer than OEM was for me.

I do think its awesome people are out there still making things for these trucks and I hope they end up lasting quiet some time for those who choose to go this route.

 

Hi!

Thanks.

I do have some measurements. These are based on using 1/2" birch plywood.

The overall width (front panel) is 54" wide x 11 1/8" high. This allows use of the OEM floor cubbies and leaves a gap for the rear speaker and cab vent.

The sides are odd shaped due to the sloping seat floor (which is why I started with the front, then cut the sides to mate up). I used a cardboard template for the back edge since the back is a bit curvy. The rear edge is about 11 1/2" high.

Let me know if you need additional measurements.

 

In for wherever you run the probe thing.

I wanna get this one and run it somewhere
IS Icstation Digital Thermometer, Car Auto Temperature Gauge Sensor, DC 4-28V Fahrenheit Dual Display, Monitor with 2 NTC Waterproof Probes for Aquarium Vehicle Fish Tank

$11 IS Icstation Digital Thermometer, Car Auto Temperature Gauge Sensor, DC 4-28V Fahrenheit Dual Display, Monitor with 2 NTC Waterproof Probes for Aquarium Vehicle Fish Tank

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07WS11X45?_encoding=UTF8

 

Finally finished up installing the archive garage shock relocation kit. If I measured correctly I’m pulling about 11.5 inches of travel in the rear. Just waiting on my durobumps to come in the mail