What have you done to your Tacoma today? 1st Gen Edition

Idk how you feel about the clock if you have one but that could be a nice spot and keep it looking oem.

 

That’s smart,

gotta find a blank too I guess

where to run the outside probe though

 

My sentiment that they are cheaper and easier to replace is you can replace the Uniball (it's self)... you can't replace the ball joint on the LBJ assembly, you replace the entire item ball joint + frame with OEM (or Moog). (I suppose you could press a new ball joint into the body. But why, and where do you even find out what ball joint fits?)

The uni is easier to maintain... exactly because there is nothing to maintain on a ball joint, you can't really maintain it. You can visually inspect the uniballs, you cant really do that with ball joints.

The cost of replacing a set of uniballs has to be cheaper than replacing an entire (OEM) ball joint unit. If the uniballs last over a year, I can see how there would be cost savings over the course of a few years.

 

What size kings are you running? 2”? What about tire size and BS?

 

30$ for ebay panel
8$ dealer handle plastic recliner
came in oak, painted it as close as I could get it

 

Used the 1st Gen to do shopping for the 2 Toy Run / Food Drives we will be doing tomorrow and then Saturday.




This year is going to be very slim for some. If you can, please get involved. It's easy, and it's fun.

This is truely my favorite time of the year.

 

Did you put on quick connects or just leave yourself enough slack to easily replace them if needed? After having a bunch from my first set fail I am thinking about redoing the entire harness with quick connects. Got a link to the kit you used? Output is really nice.

Honestly I have seen about as many catastrophic failures with the ball joint itself as I have about the bolts backing out and then shearing. I always mark mine with a torque pen now and blue loctite for peace of mind and a quick inspection item.

 

FINALLY got my Bussmann and otrattw switches wired in. Hopefully the old girl is less flammable now. The old rats nest I had wired in was pretty bad

 

I thought about doing quick connects, but I figured they are going to be submerged often and subject to a lot of debris. So I decided to connect them solid with marine grade (with the glue shit inside) heat shrink. I did leave myself enough room to cut and splice if they go bad though.

Give me a second and I'll look them up and edit a link in here.

Here are the ones I used https://www.ebay.com/itm/284385574910

 

Got some body rust remediation done! Replaced the front bumper, headlights, turn signals, and windshield. This thing is coming along! Going to pick up the camper shell in a couple weeks!

 

Shocks are 2.0x12. Tire size is 285/70/17 and the bs is 3.5. I haven’t fully flexed it out but I don’t think I’ll be rubbing on the shocks

 

Got to use my heated mirrors today


Heated wipers moved up on the list

 

Sorry all 3 of us were on a trip ha

Anyways, if you ask for 3'' with 700lbs...that what you're going to get. So it'll be like 4'' empty.

Sadly leaf springs are hard to make work good in all situations(unloaded vs loaded), so you have to pick the one, and deal with the other.

If you DD it mostly, then I'd go bit light on the weight rating for the 12 nights a year you go camping(I have no idea how much you go, not a dig just a number) and enjoy your 353 days of nice ride empty.

The 3 of us that you tagged(Dan, Mike and I) tend to build for a rig. So we do the opposite and want it to work great on the trail fully loaded. But thats for a more dedicated rig setup.

just be warned? I guess? that you will GET what you ask for. So if you as for 3'' an 900lbs its gonna be 3" with 900lbs on the ass end. As in: it'll ride like shit with only 200lbs. You will NEED close to 900lbs to make it work good.





Other than that, they are awesome and I'd say last around 3-5 years depending on usage. (long if you don't mind some sag, or longer if you change up your setup and go lighter).

 

This is where I landed with them also.


I think you'll be lucky to get 10k out of them before the liners are gone and they have slack in them and will need replaced. For some, thats replacement 2-4x a year. They are just so low and get dunked in everything you drive through. The lower spherical bearings in our shocks already barely last 10-15k.


And it is the same amount of work to remove, if not more since after you do remove it you have to press in a new Uniball vs just putting a whole new LBJ in there as it is. As you pointed out.


I love the idea. But for a weekend warrior/overland/adventure truck. These are not the best choice IMO. If you have a dedicated rig that sees 20k a year at the most and you beat the shit out of it, they are great. This is the same line of thought as to why the SPC Upper control arms are "better". Sealed ball joint that lasts much longer. Plus other things but that is a big one.




PLUS this still does nothing to help with the fact that the 4 upside down little bolts that hold the LBJ on fail just as much as the ball joint itself. If not more. I've seen more bolt failures first hand then ball joint failures.



But be curious what you think of them long term @austinmtb I know you'll put em through the paces.

 

Wow, you made a post I agree with 100%.

I know 2nd gen guys with aftermarket uniball lowers and they're replacing them 2x a year, and they make a awful racket after one or two wheeling trips. Even shorter lifespan than lower spherical bearings due to location and mounting orientation.

 

HA!

Who woulda thought that

Yeah the LT guys go through them a lot too, desert guys a bit less due to climate but still a year or more thing.

 

Thanks for the feedback. Yea I know that with leafsprings you can't have the best of both worlds with loaded vs empty like that.
It's not my daily, so I'd rather spec it out for being more setup for camping and trips.
I'm not worried about what weight to spec, but just curious on the amount of lift that different people chose to try and best match the front.

I've heard specs from 2.5" to 3.5" thus far for people's 1st gens so just trying to get a frame of reference for what I should pick for mine.

 

That might be a bit big for the clock hole. As for the probe...

Yea, I am pretty sure I have used that gauge before in another project and it is too large to fit in the clock hole.

As for the sensor...I am probably overthinking it but I plan on putting it under the cab and I will probably print something to protect it from getting water and snow on it. But odds are good that I will go with whatever is easiest first and go from there if the readings are not accurate.

 

Hi all. Long time no see...



While installing retros I added 6mm x1.0 nylocks and wing nuts to the beam alignment screws so I can reach in and adjust them by hand while they are mounted.

 

war_machine_burro
Replaced my steelies on spacers with Pro Comp 32 Series Bandido, 16x8 Wheel with 6 on 5.5 Bolt Pattern - Flat Black - 7032-6883
Fit over my 199mm Toyota Tundra brake calipers. I have had Pro Comps before on my Tundra and was very happy. Used 106.1 mm to 108mm hub ring to make sure nothing vibrates.