Truck won’t turn over, it’s my fault and idk how to fix it.

Yes it cranks. Not sure if the crank necessarily means the starter works. But the cranks are all even when I turn the key for a while

 

Here’s a picture of where my probes were. I was trying to hit the prong where the arrow is located (which I believe is the reverse signal wire). The box outlined in red is what I believe could have shorted with.

 

Argghhhhhhhhhhh!!! So you have a crank/no-start condition, not a no-crank condition. Back to square one.

You put the key in the ignition and attempt to start as normal; what happens with:

-The tachometer? Does the needle flicker just a bit?
-The security light? Does it behave normally for your truck?
-Do all of the lights, door chime, etc work as normal?
-Does the truck try to catch at all?
-Perform an extended crank; do you smell fuel in the engine compartment or at the tail pipe?
-Do you have access to an automotive scan tool?

 

not sure how to bypass the solenoid. Case fuses are good and intact.

Yeah I’m aware

 

Tachometer does not flicker.

Lights and security lights work just fine.

Not sure what you mean if my truck tries to catch but all it does is just crank.

I don’t smell any gasoline. But after so many cranks, I know the fuel pump is working Bc I’m all out of gas now.

I’ll find access to a scan tool. But that’ll be over the weekend now.

 

Unless you were extremely low on fuel, I find it hard to believe you cranked the tank dry. The battery would go dead before that happened. And if somehow you did manage to drain the tank by cranking it that long. I’d be sure to check the crank case for fuel. And your cats definitely won’t be happy.

Is it possible you made contact with more than one pin when checking for power?

 

Does the check engine light come on when you turn the ignition on?

 

Where can I get a job that has a lunch break that lasts "a few hours?"

 

By "catch" I meant, do you hear any sputtering, or any sign of ignition at all.

There's NO way you could run out of gas unless you're cranking this thing for HOURS and you were almost empty; if that were the case, then your truck would smell like gasoline.

With your meter, conduct the following checks at the DLC:

Voltage (Key off and out) - Pin 16 (+) to Pin 4 (-)

Voltage - Pin 6 (+) to Pin 4 (-)

Voltage - Pin 14 (+) to Pin 4 (-)

Resistance (Key off/out) - Pin 6 to Pin 14

 

Not mine. The few hours part means.
I won’t be home for at least a few hours.

The lunch break part means, I on lunch break. And just now have time to respond.

But that’s going to be short. I’m head back out in the rain to finish.

 

Tacoma Mike has a great question because if the CEL is not coming on/flickering at attempted startup, it's NOT good news.

 

https://youtube.com/shorts/MRpbXdX_NH4?feature=share

 

I can't tell - the cluster is too blurry and the phone moves all over the place. I don't have access to my truck right now, but here's an image from the manual (which I keep on my computer). Mine is a 2013 4 banger, but it should be the same - someone else with the exact year/version should be able to chime in if not. It LOOKS like it's not - it LOOKS like the battery light to the right, then an empty space, then the door warning?

 

Let’s start with the simple and easy things first.
Do you have power to the 10A EFI No.2 fuse with the ignition On?
This is powered by the EFI relay, and the Engine Immobilizer.

 

dumb question...... did you plug it back in?

 

And even if you did, it might be worth taking it back apart and making sure none of the male pins got bent.

 

That looks to be the ID2 Connector in the drivers kick panel and the wire you were checking looks to be the red-white wire going to the Reverse Backup Lights.

Look at the IG1 Fuse very carefully. I think it is blown.

** Disclaimer: This is a guess based on what info we have so far.

 

The IG1 Fuse supplies these loads:

ABS (w/ VSC), TRAC, VSC, Auto LSD, Downhill Assist Control and
Hill–Start Assist Control
ABS (w/o VSC)
Accessory Meter
Air Conditioning
Back–Up Light
Charging
Combination Meter
Cruise Control (1GR–FE)
Cruise Control (2TR–FE)
Electronically Controlled Transmission and A/T Indicator (1GR–FE)
Electronically Controlled Transmission and A/T Indicator (2TR–FE)
Engine Control (1GR–FE)
Engine Control (2TR–FE)
Headlight
Multi Mode 4WD and Rear Differential Lock
Power Outlet (115)
Rear Differential Lock (2WD)
Seat Belt Warning
Shift Lock
SRS
Tire Pressure Warning System
Trailer Towing
Turn Signal and Hazard Warning Lights

 

Yeah I switched out the IG1 fuse among others just to finally check and it’s still not working. Sorry guys

Im scratching my head hard at this one too. Makes me second guess taking it to a shop. If I’ve spent this much time on it with the help of you guys, I can’t imagine how long the shop is going to take ($labor hours)

nonetheless, I’m still working on it.