Long Travel BS Thread

17 miles from my place in Garden Grove

 

Well finally had time to finish my fuel cell installation now just need to build my chase rack to put my drybreak fill in.

Then got my adv bedsides installed...and half my new tr beadlocks.

 

Just wondering if anybody can tell me if some 1.5" .120 tube is fine to space my king 2.0 bumps down to 1"?

Just got them mounted up, but want to shorten them before bolting everything on and I've never taken apart a bump before. Looks the same as shocks from what I can tell?

Also, what pressures are you guys running front and rear? Just want a good baseline starting point. I'm a hydrobump virgin

 

@WormSquirts quick reference here. People with a lot more experience than me will hopefully chime in.
https://www.crawlpedia.com/bump_stops.htm

Tuning Hydraulic Bump Stops
Bump stops are tuned by adjusting their internal nitrogen pressure using a nitrogen fill kit. Getting them set up correctly is a trial and error process and we find it works best to start with a pressure that is too high (350-400 psi) and slowly work your way down. With the bump stop pressurized, roll the o-ring on the shaft all the way up before going out for your first test run. You will notice that as your bump stops cycle, they will push the o-rings down to show you how much they have moved. Ultimately, when you are driving 95% all out, you want the bump stops to cycle almost all the way leaving about 1/4" left as insurance for those times when you hit something harder than you had expected.

 

Think he is talking about shortening the stroke of the bump. Shorter bump stroke/zone is nice for IFS up front since there isn’t a lot of shock travel to work with. Leaves more room outside the bump zone to tune with a bypass. Good info though.

 

What bending and flaring tools do you have for the stainless line. Looks good!

 

Honestly, if you’re not running bypasses I’m not sure I would space them down. You’re going to want a decent bump zone in my honest opinion.

 

I believe I used some 1.5” schedule 40 pvc when I shortened my rears. Whatever slipped over the shaft nicely. The pvc is plenty strong for that application and won’t scratch the shaft. As for pressure, I’m running 85psi in my rears and have yet to fully bottom out since reworking my geometry.

 

I spaced my fronts down to 1” as well. Using 1.5x.120 worked fine. And 200 psi. No bypasses yet

 

Ridgid 377 flare tool and the 408 bender, tools are spendy but work really well.

 

Thanks! I did read that link as well, but 300 psi seemed extremely high. I only have a big nitrogen bottle for my shop so was hoping to get a closer baseline before packing this big bottle out somewhere haha

Even just a 1" bump off the LCA will be probably 3" of travel at the wheel in the bump zone. I haven't sat it down at ride height with the bumps in yet, but I'm guessing I would be pretty much riding on them at 2".

Perfect. I have a tonne of cut off chunks of tube but no PVC, but that's good to know for sure. If I find some I'll use that. I'll maybe start at 110psi then and I can drop it down a little if necessary

Awesome info, thankyou!

 

I went with 80psi in my rear bumps based on what @snowsk8air2 recommended and have been happy. It's plush and handles well. I may try putting in a few more psi as I think I'm using almost all the travel more frequently than I'd like.

 

Got the bumps shortened down to 1" in the front with 200psi like @Bobotaco and put my rears to 90psi cuz I think I typically run a bit more weight in the back than @snowsk8air2 . Easy enough to change pressures later though. Stoked to get them shortened though!

 

Right on, let us know how that works out as I’m still trying to dial in front bump pressure as well. I really need to just get bypasses already

 

I think that’s what @Airdog and I did for our fronts. He made me spacers for them. I’m still using the 1 in bump stop to the fullest but I don’t notice it. Between that and the bypass, it feels pretty good.

 

Will do! I will get bypasses one day, but I don't know how much it matters for me where I live. Just don't have the terrain to make them mandatory.

It would be a shame not to use them all the way! Bottoming completely isn't a bad thing necessarily. I thing I need to put a cross brace over the engine pretty bad from some of the hits I've taken that guaranteed flex the whole frame inward

 

Posted my bypasses in the classifieds for anyone interested.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/lt-classifieds.471438/page-225#post-26627268

 

Is this why people opt for Super Bumps on an IFS? Or is it just for the obvious easier install? Ive got a lot to learn before I install my DK kit. I have 2.0 - 2" to go in there but it will be a lot of trial and error given my lack of experience.

 

Yea after reading what psi everyone else settled on, 350 to 400 must be a general starting point for a full size.
I put this little rig together a couple years ago, I'd loan it to you if I didnt live 3k miles away.

 

Thanks!! I do have a similar setup, it's just a full size bottle. I think after a couple time out I should be able to get it close. I could also use my compressor up to 150psi to tune, then just match the pressure with nitrogen when I get back