Rusty Bolts

Merry Christmas to all. My Taco is a 2010 V6. Engine bay bolt rust and even rust on hose clamps. Not from me, but whoever had it before. Connecticut I think. I'd like to start replacing them and I was in hopes someone could tell me the average size bolt and where to purchase without getting raped in price. Thanks in advance. Trying to take best care if the truck I can.

 

I don't know the answers to any of your questions, I just hope you don't get raped.

 

Probably better off first providing us pictures of the areas you're wanting to replace. I would think some of them you could remove and head to a local hardware/industrial supply store to have matched up. Me personally, I probably would just head over to parts.toyota.com to look them up and order (most Toyota panstock fasteners aren't too terrible on price).

Side note, I hope you've thought this through in the fact that you may end up creating much bigger problems/headaches by having some of these rusty bolts snap on you.

 

Many thanks. Yes I've thought about the danger of bolts breaking. I'd hit em first with a good product to help decrease the risk. I'll try to post some pics. I'm still learning.

 

With a couple tools, thread pitch gauge and calipers that preferably read in millimeters and inches, fractional inches as in 1/4” instead of .25”, you’ll easily be able to identify any bolt. The calipers sold at many places have a sticker instead of engraved lines, worse the sticker isn’t always stuck on correct, so zero will be 1-1.5 millimeters. Measure the diameter, thread pitch, then length. So when you go shopping, and you have it written down in that order, the guy at the hardware store will be confident you measured it right. So if you measure 8mm, 1.25 thread pitch, 20 mm long, it’s M8 1.25 x 20.

I usually also bring them with me so when they hand you a bolt, you can measure it to confirm they’re correct. It’s far less complicated than it sounds. If you have eyeballs you can do it.

Just because you found the box that says what you’re looking for doesn’t mean you found it. Stuff gets put away wrong often.

For your hose clamps, the calipers also work to measure the hose outer diameter. Measure where the hose is attached instead of somewhere in the middle, the hose barb pushes the hose out slightly.

Once you find a competent person at a hardware store, they’ll recognize you next time and remember you know how to measure a bolt. I found one at the big orange store, once. Of the hundreds of times I’ve been in there, once.

I’ll post pics later.

 

Food for thought, but keeping this thread updated as you go with pics and results (i.e. bolt came out easy VS bolt snapped) might be a good resource for others who are in the same boat as you and have been pondering whether to embark on this or not.

 

Hmm, the stars must've been aligned that day for you as I was just in there the other night and swear it's a breeding ground for smooth brains.

 

Smooth brain activity. 3 obviously new young employees with their spotless new vests standing shooting the crap blocking the entrance. I don’t go this time of year because a big portion of the parking lot is blocked off to sell Christmas trees. A huge empty area behind the store would be perfect for this.

 

Radio Bear thanks some great info and I'll try to keep you guys updated best I can. It's more of a cosmetic thing for me I guess. From a 94 4cyl with 359k miles to a 2010 Tacoma pretty big step for me. I hate a vehicle payment but what the heck. When something doesn't work or look right it bugs me. Think I'll try the hardware store route first.

 

I've been wrenching for decades. This sounds like a massive can of worms so hopefully OP is targeting only the easiest, most accessible bolts.

I'd invest in a couple cans of PB Blaster Penetrating spray. The new stuff comes in a bitchin spray can that allows flow control and it has a catalyst in it and seriously creeps into nuts & bolts. I've been spraying fasteners on my 24 y/o Ranger as I have all new lower and upper control arms with bushings and tie rod ends to replace in a week or 2. I've been hitting the fittings at least once a week in preparation.

 

One thing you're going to find with fasteners is that automotive grade fasteners have very different - and much more corrosion resistant - finishes than hardware store fasteners. If you manage to loosen and remove the OEM fasteners, but replace them with hardware store fasteners, you'll be shocked at how fast the new ones corrode.

 

this poor guy got raped , bye the last owner of his taco in Connecticut how sad i dont think that was very nice , i would call the police then get counseling , just my 2 cents

 

Sorry to hear that you had so many fasteners corrode. I spent many years in the metal finishing business though, so I'll stick by my statement that OEM automotive fasteners have far more corrosion resistant finishes than common hardware store fasteners. I'll put money on that one because I've seen the salt spray resistance test numbers. The fact that your OEM fasteners corroded does not mean that hardware store fasteners wouldn't corrode even more quickly - which they would. Trust me.

On a related note, you do know that Rustoleum Rust Reformer is not a finish coating right? Although it is intended to neutralize rust, it requires additional steps to actually add any actual corrosion protection.

 

Why replace them? They're just going to rust out all over again.

 

Naval Jelly works if you want to treat the rust and keep the OEM fasteners.

 

I spray fluid film under the hood as well as the frame.

 

Agree, unless OP goes SS. What's funny (but also sad) is how you even see this on some of the aftermarket auto parts where they're already rusting out a few weeks into service. Generic nuts & bolts from the local hardware store are one thing, but for purpose built auto parts to do this...my god. Never ceases to amaze me some of the junk that gets pumped out in the auto industry, especially the lack of corrosion protection.

Like the others have said, may want to consider treating the ones that are on there. But if you do decide to go forward with new fasteners be sure to keep them clean from road salt instead of letting it sit and accumulate over time. Also consider keeping them protected with some type of corrosion inhibitor (i.e. fluid film, etc.).

 

If it shows like I think it will, first pic is a thread pitch gauge. Each leaf has a number and teeth to put on the bolt threads. The teeth should fit the bolt threads exactly, unless the bolt is stretched.

Next is a caliper. Mine shows inch increments like a ruler instead of like a dial caliper.

The third picture is what walked past me when I went out to get the pictures. I probably wouldn’t have noticed if I didn’t have my dog with me, who went nuts, and luckily was on a leash.