2002 3.4L PreRunning Performance Tune / Chip Question

Absolutely, the pressure differential between pre- and post-compressor is very important to power, nowhere near as NA

 

Try this
https://urdusa.com/urd-maf-sensor-calibrator/

 

Timing is the problem with our ECUs, not fuel, and even the full FTC can't advance timing

 

(Takes Rippp)... my tribal decals and flames are atleast 15hp a piece

 

You need to add a "TRD Supercharged" decal- it's good for like 100 seat-of-the-pants HP.

 

it feels like pushing a loaded shopping cart with 3 wobby wheels

 

I needed to retard my timing because of my supercharger. I figured he just wanted fuel since he doesn’t have a supercharger and he wants to reprogram his ecu for an NA motor. Just giving him options.

 

Fuel <> power
ECU adjusts to 14.7 except under WOT where it's ~12.0. Sure, you could lean out to 13.5 if you really wanted to, but take my word for it, chasing horsepower in increments of 10 is a waste of time

 

I have a supercharger, Supra fuel injectors, urd ftc and a 2.2” pulley. I don’t know what part of that is 10 hp at a time.

 

The glaring fact that OP doesn't have a supercharger.

 

intake, headers, and a good 91oct tune can give some decent gains. just ask the old school mr2 guys that used to swap these engines. but yea. youd almost be in to the same amount of money as a supercharger

 

Yes but again, you need timing advance access, which means standalone ECU. The guy's doing those swaps aren't using Tacoma ECUs..

 

I hear if you put a magnet on your fuel line it adds like 30hp.

 

vf tuner just released software to fully tune 5vz ecus. no need for standalone.

 

Link?

 

x2

 

Just looked in their site and I didn't see it, unless I missed it. I remember a couple years ago he was looking to make a tune for the 01+ years, something about the earlier ecus he said was impossible to crack. But nothing ever came of any of it unless it's not on their site yet
All I see are 3.5, 4.0 and 5.7l options

 

Did a quick googles, and it looks like that's the 3.5L, not the 1st gen 3.4L...

so....

link?

 

At BEST, 15hp gains from one specific model (which isn't the 3.4L). And even then, that's a dyno under lab conditions, I bet the real world gains are maybe half that. Probably more if you put one of those magnet things on the fuel line, lol

All those things do is trick the motor (I mean "calibrate" it) to run richer. Which without timing, forced induction etc... hardly does anything except make your MPGs go down (which already suck).

Again, there is no magic pill that gives these motors a bunch of power. People spend an obscene amount of money to barely break 300hp. Hold me back, lol

 

Not sure how many times I can say the same things lol but you re-covered it

The calibrator is actually more useless than it sounds, in practice, since any changes you make get reverted by ECU adjustments to keep 14.7:1. Open loop, WOT fuel is actually too rich in some zones, and the ideal AFR for power is 13.5 so those tiny zones are the only place you'll make any power.

Anything besides FI is a fool's errand for power.