TRD/ Magnuson 4.0 Supercharger Tips, Tricks, and Mods

Page 1 has all the info you need my dude. You are right in line in boost where you need to be AND unless you meth charge it you do not need to be above anything north of 8 PSI at the risk of going outside of the blowers efficiency per the compressor map chart.

Robs got you straight with what he said as well.

 

Totally you may not need the meth setup as you said. Look into the CSF radiator and possibly E-Fan instead of the Clutch Fan. Drop down the Therm to 160 as well.

 

Thanks for your response. Unfortunately, page 1 does not have what i am looking for..

Page 1 lists the adiabatic ranges of the supercharger and recommends to stay in the 6-7.5psi ranges. But recommended does not translate to common psi ranges with underdrive pulleys/exhaust upgrades.

Also, the provided chart does not account for methanol injection, which will change air density from charge temp changes (as well as AFR) and it would create an entirely new chart by changing the constants.

Not trying to debate a generous helper, but its an important distinction..I appreciate your help.

I already installed the meth system installed in anticipation of hitting more than 8psi...which is the point of the post, as I expected 8-9 psi. I guess I need to go to a smaller pulley and belt!

I think ideal state would be to run a 2.6" pulley in summer and a 2.2-2.4 In winter...with a unique tune for each... if I want to get the most from it...or just be lazy, but waste the $500 meth system that's installed....which sucks.

Thanks again

 

Thanks man...do the electric fans provide more cooling? I thought I read in here somewhere that the mechanical fan published more cfm...but it was a single data point, so idk.

Have you had positive experiences with an E-Fan? ....certainly the radiator would be awesome...can't go wrong there.

I was going to use the meth more for the IAT for higher density charge and to keep the SC in adiabatic range ( as stated in other reply, I was aiming for 8-10 psi).

I also installed a 160 degree thermostat and would like to keep the engine cool as well as the intake charge....it stays at about 165 now, but its not 120 degrees outside yet, lol...that's a whole other story.

Thx

 

There are no common psi ranges based upon mods which is why I have not listed such a thing in the OP. Everyone's setup is different and will hit different boost ranges, sometimes even depending on the weather and overall temperature. There is no way I or anyone can account for all of the different mods available and list them all within a reasonably sized post you know what I mean? Based on your 6 psi output, that sounds right in line with what a fully opened up exhaust system with all cats deleted would flow with a pulley that size at sea level. I run 7.0- 7.5 without headers and with two cats in play on an otherwise fully opened up system.

Meth will always allow for higher boost ranges as it provides an artificial cooling source that the compressor map does not account for. Once you have that in place, which it sounds like you do, all bets are off as to what your boost ceiling is. Just make sure you are properly tuned for that additional cooling as it does count as a "fueling" source.

If you so desire to run with a smaller pulley like a 2.5 or 2.4 or whatever size you choose, just make sure the belt and the tensioner at up to par. I recommend the Gates RPM belt for max grip, and the Roush Tensioner. Given how much air you will be moving, make sure your exhaust is up to boot because it is a choke point. Either run a single piping setup post a very large Y (3" or even larger perhaps) or run a moderately sized (2.5") H or X pipe with equal sized piping to dual exhaust. It looks like you got LT headers so you are good pre Y style pipe. I don't remember what size the URD spec U exhaust is, but based on how much air you want to move you may need more flow out of the system if the setup is too small. If you are currently hitting 6 however you can try to run a 2.5 and that may be enough to bring you up 1- 1.5 psi.

Given you will be running meth, that is the most I can say without saying, you may just have to experiment and play with it because meth is a subject that is in knowledge depth for running boost. I think @Athlaos and maybe even @White lightning boosted may run it. They may be able to assist you in that arena.

If you have HP Tuners, I would recommend you over to Justin. He's very knowledgeable, and very timely. However, I know his recent accessibility has changed and he may refer you over to his helper given you would be a new tune if you do have it.

 

The mechanical fan provides only as much fixed CFM as you are capable of turning the engine to since it only moves as fast as the accessory drive it is attached to.

Running the GM Corvette ZR1 SPAL fan provides more CFM than the OE mech fan is capable of ever dreaming if I recall, but your charging system needs to be good for it (reliable) as well. I run one and just by switching to that easily freed me 10-20 HP on my last dyno over the previous session.

 

Footnote: Due to recent information I have been informed by I am no longer recommending the 51516XP oil filter by Wix and am recommending the non XP version of their same filter if you would like to run a larger XL version of the OE filter. Page 1 has been modified.

PN: 51516 (non XP)

 

What happened or what info? What’s the benefit to a larger filter?

 

More oil capacity.

The XP series oil filter is made for vehicles running synthetic oil (0-20 and the likes) and is made to last some 15,000 miles evidently. The media inside of it is some sort of fiberglass style element material, whereas the standard 51516 filter is made for vehicles running standard style oils. It uses a synthetic paper style element which allows for better filtration efficiency in comparison to the XP (which coincidentally does not even list the filtration efficiency).

All this, plus the filter costs cheaper. Win win.

 

Also, after remembering, forgetting, remembering, forgetting, and re- remembering, a "MAF" section has been added for those who want to run a MAF capable of larger flow reading. Thanks to the guys who brought it up. I cant remember who it was (see the common recurring theme here?), but it's there now, for your reference purposes.

 

Thanks...huge help.

I can't recall the URD Exhaust / y pipe diameter tonight, but the engine seems to be breathing really well right now... I think I am going to step down in pulley size and belt...as I paid for the QC pulley system for just that reason.

I have worked a bit with Justin and his new partner (boltripper) and I would like to continue to do so....but I really want a physical dyno base tune first (especially with meth).

I worked with one of the country's leading remote tuners for my Harley when I punched it out to a 2.2L and got a remote map....but I got quite a bit more out of it on the dyno tune. If I go local they will not know half as much as Justin about 2nd gen Tacos, but I can't shake my past experience with the dynojet...best of both worlds may be dyno base tune and then have Justin and team help polish engine/ tranny parameters.

Thanks for the response and the referrals to other experts.

 

Thanks, I will look up the ZR1 SPL fan....any mounting issues? I assume it's not bolt on, but at least same rough size?

It makes sense that alot of the bennefits of E-fan would be low rpm...which is alot of the time wheeling. I may have to update my alternator anyways, as I added a second battery for a whole bunch of off-road/camping goodies. Current V at idle is only 12.9-13.1....need to check it tomorrow at 2k rpm at the alternator power post...hopefully I am pushing 13.4+...it is reliable though and second battery will provide some capacity reserve for idle draw.

 

What is the criteria for AM MAF? ...its one of the only mods I didn't do, as I couldn't understand the threshold of the stock MAF relative to other upgrades.....if this is in that section then I can search that...but other threads were stated "if you want"....and idk if I want, lol.

 

There is a mod you can perform to get more output voltage but the mod is really only recommended to those running the higher voltages needed to sustain charging from the alternator when you are running AGM batteries. It's been a long time since I did it, but anyway, the mod entails replacing the ALT-S fuse in the fuse box to a Diode made by Ford or GM.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads...-booster-upgrade.604478/page-19#post-22174488

 

Eventually the MAF runs out of capable airflow reading and throws P010X codes (P0101, P0103) this usually starts to happen after you drop down below 2.5 or 2.4 pulleys. For more info on whats needed, the OP has it now. Just hit Ctrl-F on your web browser and punch in MAF and It'll take you to the subsection, which is a very small section, but its there now. Lol.

 

Fixed my post [again] ...its getting late, lol.

BTW...thanks for all you do. I have been on the forum since 2014 and have only had a couple dozen posts because of people like you....I can always find what I am looking for and never have to dig very deep. My current questions are a bit outside the box, so I am posting.

My entire SC build was based on page 1, including the little stuff like oil filler tubes and fuel pump pickup screens. You and the communities contributions are priceless. Thanks.

 

You wrote up your post so it showed up inside of mine, but I managed to see what you said. Haha.

No problem. My background is from the Muscle car/ import mod community and the lack of knowledge here (or at least that was posted about) without some sort of central knowledge base I found was severely lacking. Just here to help, and I'm glad I could be of help. Welcome to the boost club by the way.

 

It was @PhoS https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/tacoma-procharger.639892/page-18#post-25034106

 

Sweet, thank you!

 

What kind of payments did you have?