New England B.S. Thread

Good to hear, about the Yamahas, mine is a 6 years old Denon that didn't take an upgrade well, and the only way to control it is from my phone now and not the remote.
Not very shareable.
Be careful of what size TV you buy. I went from a 55 to a 65 and it did make it harder to watch.
There are recommendations out there for your eye distance from the screen and what size screen to get. You may want to look at those.
I wish I had downsized and gone with a better screen like an OLED.

 

The Left looks like a good place for a chicken Coop!

 

I went from 42 to 50 last year, LG as well. Lot of TV for the dollar, $300 for a LED TV 50" ain't bad. Fun part is I probably dropped another $50-75 for adapters since my other stuff is ancient plus I have a lot of gaming stuff.

I'd have to look but I have an ancient Yamaha, probably 1980s, in my garage. Can't even recall the model# but sounds killer.

My receiver is a 25 year old Pioneer..before Dolby Pro Logic, 2 or 4 speakers 200 watts total. Fills the room just fine and I rarely get to actually lay into it hard.

I remember long ago Circuit City (maybe other stores have a similar thing IDK) had a setup where you had lines on the floor and stood at the distance your TV would be from where you sat. I couldn't go bigger than 50" in my living room anyway because of the pocket door and window, nor could I put it on another wall. That and I can't wall mount anyways.

 

I have a Yamaha RX-777 in my garage. It drives two RCF Monitor 8s and sounds fantastic. It was also powering old Bose speakers under my canopy that didn't even belong outside, but I just took those down since my girlfriend bought me a couple proper Yamaha outdoor replacements for Christmas - can't remember the model, just know they have 6.5" drivers.

 

but did you get a warning?

 

I’ve had 4 front facing pods on my trucks since 2008, I pass every year and never received a warning.

 

Ordered up a new set of snows today. My current set is down below the 40% depth mark and have lost a majority of their studs. I stuck with the Nokian Hakkapeliitta LT3 studded, but went with a little wider tire this time, 265/75-16 versus the current 235/85-16. Same total height (within 0.1") so only 4 and I'll keep the 235 spare.

 

You just made me think to remember being 16 working at HotRock, AKA Firestone, doing the mine numbing thing of putting Studs into Tires.
Boy that was long ago...
Great luck with the new tires Emmon

 

Nothing at all. I asked the dude about them. All he said was he would have to look at the book.

Yeah, I’ve got that, and a whole crap ton of others.

 

I ordered an 85,000 mile 4-year factory warranty for this truck. I debated on it for months since I don't typically do warranties. I think the drivetrain in this truck is solid, but the electronics make me nervous. Spending this ($905) might save me a little in the end even if I don't use it since it'll be stuck in my mind that I should hold onto the truck long enough to ride out the warranty instead of trading it in 6 more months like I usually do.

 

If I ever buy new I think I’d go with as long of an extended factory warranty that I could get. The peace of mind knowing that any little thing is covered would be very nice. Also nice to know things are covered if your motor or transmission grenades just after the 3yr/36,000 or whatever it is expired

 

Meh, not a fan of warranties, I fix all the crap myself anyways, otherwise I end up spending days at the Stealership. I can google most issues now, diagnose myself and get the right parts to fix it the first time. Dealerships seem to rely on those stupid books too much and do the ‘guess and check’ method which ends up taking multiple trips to diagnose and fix the problem. I’m the exact opposite mindset and never buy the extended warranty because I never seem to actually use it. I can certainly see both sides of the argument though.

keep in mind though, 3 yr 36k is usually the bumper to bumper, 5 yr 60k is the power train.

 

The drivetrain is good to 5y/60k. If the other stuff was as well, I wouldn't have bothered, but it stops at 3y/36k and I'm at about 34k now.

I think the computer for the headunit (Ford calls it an APIM) has been a little funny from day one, but it hasn't bothered me enough to go to the dealer. If it takes a turn for the worse now, I'll be all set. Or any of the other fancy electronic stuff.

 

I typically like working on vehicles, but often times I find myself on my back in the driveway, without a lift or the proper tools, and quickly realize I am not a mechanic. If I had a garage or a flat driveway and the proper tools it could definitely be a different story. In a perfect world I would have a project truck/vehicle to wrench on that’s not my daily driver that I need to commute M-F

 

I'm okay with most things mechanical, it's the electronics I don't want to deal with. If one of these modules goes, I think I could technically order it and configure it myself with ForScan, but the modules themselves are often really expensive. Plus, they usually involve dash and interior disassembly which I'm terrible at.

Some of the stuff involves specialized tools too, like when they replaced the bad cameras they needed to lay out special calibration mats and perform a service procedure to align the cameras. Those mats are $1k.

It isn't something I usually do, but in this case I'll see if it was a good choice or if I don't use it.

 

I hear ya there, with all of the electronics in new vehicles that makes sense to me. Maybe spend 1k on a mat you’ll use once (plus other parts) or spend <1k and have someone else replace it (and other things that may go wrong)

 

I picked up a 10yr/100k mile warranty on my Tundra. Was only $950 for the factory bumper to bumper warranty extension through Toyota

 

I’m not rolling in piles of cash, but to me that would be $950 well spent knowing your truck is covered for 10yr/100k.

 

Random question for yall.
I've got a Caliraised tailgate mount which I put my CB antenna on, but that thing flexes quite a lot as I'm driving. Is there any way to either make it stronger, or is there another brand that makes an even sturdier one?
Worst case scenario, I would relocate the mount for the antenna somewhere else like on the bed rack or roof rack.

 

I'm looking to do a VHF/UHF or a GMRS radio and will probably mount the antenna on my bed stiffeners. Would that be an option?

Ragos might be stiffer not sure.