Long Travel BS Thread

I just instantly started drooling

 

ok that's cool!

 

Anyone running a fiberglass dash? I’m starting to think after 20 years in Arizona and Vegas summers, my dash isn’t good got come apart as easy as I hope. The McNeil oem or prizm both caught my eye and would look pretty good with the stock cluster etc.

 

New T1+ class Hilux for Dakar 2022. Changes from regular T1 include a suspension travel increase from 280mm/11" up to 350mm/13.78", 32" tires now up to 37", track width increase.

 

I'm looking at picking up JD Fab's lower arm pivot kit for my 2nd gen to pair with my front camburg LT. Hoping to improve the rubbing situation and most improve rubbing on the pinch weld and body mount. The extra clearance is a plus too.

Any personal experiences, tips or opinions to share for those familiar with it?

 

I wouldn’t hesitate to do it over again. The oem tabs are so flimsy. I haven't locked my alignment in yet with their through bolt lock design, but I have yet to knock it out of alignment. I used to knock alignments out every trip almost right away, even with cam tab gussets.

The install is not bad either. I cut all the old tabs and bump stops off( you can keep oem bumps with different preparation steps). The whole thing bolts in place using existing locations. Once it’s bolted in place, you weld it up. I had Ze from TacomaPros weld it up for me.

It would pair nice with the Camburg uniball lowers.

 

Cool, thanks.

Yeah I've actually been holding on to a Marlin HD frame / cam tab reinforcement kit, which was only $100, but after seeing this JD kit adjusts the geometry, I'm very interested despite the extra cost. I was going to start doing some tubbing since I still rub a lot with my 35s, but think this would be a good first step.

 

I sold my marlin reinformcents as well. I’m using their +4 kit and have rubbing issues with the inner fender towards the headlight and right above the tire at full bump. Waiting on their inner fenders to correct that.

 

I have the lower pivot kit on order and have the camburg kit as well. I am suspecting contact from the coilover lower spring seat from the tie ride. We'll see how far I can push the lower arm forward.

 

I'm telling myself I can cut/ tub well enough and save money vs their inner fenders, but those fenders are so nice, I really like what they've done.

 

I second what @RonRon23 mentioned. With that, you'll still have rubbing issues at full bump with 35s so you may be interested in the HC wheel wells too. The MC kit isn't bad and it offers reinforcement but if you can afford the additional costs the JD relocation is the more solid option in addition to offering better alignment numbers.

 

Won't solve you issue. You may get away from needing to tub with the relocation but you will still rub the wheel wells at full bump with 35s. Tubbing doesn't fix that unless you rework the fender too. Ask me how I know...

ESPECIALLY if you plan on doing hydros up front. I'm on stock bumps which limit my up travel a bit and still stuff the tire.

 

Did they maintain a functioning door on a race truck, even with all those door panel pieces?

 

Guess it just depends on the kit being used. I have the JD 2.25 and at full bump (metal on metal uniball contact meaning type of bump stop doesn’t matter) my 35 doesn’t contact the upper fender. Just a little bit behind the headlight but that was easy to do a little tubbing there.

Not saying the HC fenders aren’t worth it because they also strengthen the front end a lot, but it’s just a lot of cheddar to drop.

 

Pics to back up what I’m talking about. This is uniball metal contact and you can sorta make out the inner fender in the shadows. This is with a 3.5” back space wheel so maybe that comes into play because the tire just sticks out so far from the body lol

 

That's what's interesting. We have the same kit and I'm currently rubbing the inner fender at full stuff with OE bumps. I have a few inches of shaft left on the shock when I bump out but I didn't notate how much more I could get out of my upper uniball. Something I'll have to notate when I get the opportunity.

I've got 4.3" backspacing so that may play a slight roll.

 

Yeah when I cycled, I pulled bumps and coil off of the coilover and maxed out the upper uniball and cleared lock to lock. I’d already tubbed for 35s stock width so I just had to do a little more trimming up front behind the headlight since this is .875” forward as you know. I did have about 1.5” shaft remaining at uniball maxed out.

Edit: but my stock width tubbing didn’t involve touching the inner fenders except a small area behind the headlight. And the firewall obviously.

 

I think this just got added to the race truck list. My list was the spindle gussets and heim the steering but I keep smacking my alignment out up whack every trip and was hoping new alignment tabs would help.

 

I did as well but I either didn't pay attention to the upper uniball or didn't notate it at full bump. I can barely remember what I had for breakfast these days. lol

Sounds like something I'll have to do again and report back when I try my new spring rates.

 

I did the Tacotabs from Poly Performance, no issues since. I can't afford the JD set up.