2nd gen alternator upgrade

Looking into doing an alternator upgrade on my 06 DCLB and was wondering what everyone knew on the upgrade as far as what do I need to be looking into. I am looking also to do a group 27 northstar battery for the replacement of the stock battery.

 

What’s your goal? Big stereo, multiple lights, large power electrical items? A Northstar 27f can be charged with a stock 130A alt with an HKB voltage booster.

 

Well my main goal is nothing crazy on stereo just adding in a subwoofer and new door speakers I've already got multiple lights light bar roof and bumper and ditch lights so hows the voltage boosters? Haven't done alot of research on those

 

Voltage booster is strictly to pt

Voltage Booster is to strictly recharge an AGM battery its optimal value. AGM batteries have advantages over normal lead acid sealed batteries with greater capacity for the same size, and better tolerance for discharge recovery.

 

Lights - LED? Stereo goals are fine with battery and stock alt. Voltage booster is a diode that is inserted into the Alt. S fuse in the under hood fuse box. It will boost voltage by .5V, keeping the AGM battery happy.

 

So it takes it up to 15 volts?

 

14.5

 

When warm, at idle, the charging system operates at 13.8V. The booster brings it to 14.3-14.4. Charging an AGM like a Northstar, as stated on the battery should be between 14.4-14.8V.

 

If you have the towing package you don't need an alternator upgrade, what you need is a voltage booster for an AGM battery.

A bigger battery size doesn't need a bigger alternator, however AGM needs a voltage boost to charge properly.

https://www.tacomaworld.com/threads/the-northstar-agm-battery-voltage-booster-upgrade.604478/

All the info on the subject you could want detailed in that thread.

For what it's worth a higher amp alternator is more difficult to turn adding drag to the accessory belt.

 

That’s interesting. I’ll test mine again tomorrow with my meter but I’ve always had a charging voltage of about 14.5. Same thing with most every other car I’ve ever tested.

 

When is the last time you had the battery alarm sound due to excessive power draw? If you have not heard this alarm you are unlikely to need the upgrade you are describing. The Northstar battery upgrade with the voltage booster is a good idea to give you deep power reserves.

Seems very unlikely as that would cook a lead acid battery and cause the battery and vehicle to fail, so no OEM would charge a lead acid that high. If you note it is outside the lead acid battery charge specs printed right on the battery.

 

That answers all my questions so once I upgrade to the northstar I will get the voltage booster at the same time getting the battery and installing both at once. To keep the battery in good shape and making sure it doesn't drop in voltage. So as far as a dual batter setup goes would I be able to keep a regular starting battery for the engine and have the AGM for all accessories as far as lights stereo and electrical? Just curious or should I just upgrade the stock battery to the AGM and use the AGM for everything and do a fuse buss bar and circuit breaker setup from powertrays.

 

I’d recommend both batteries be AGM. If you’re boosting the charge voltage, you’ll kill a lead acid battery quick. A smaller starting AGM would work well.

 

^This is correct. In a dual battery setup, both batteries should be AGM or Lead Acid, not mixed.

 

It’s what my 95 has been at it it’s whole life. Same with my daughters Pontiac the wives focus and fusion. I’m no master Mechanic or anything like that don’t even to be any kind of mechanic but I’ve worked on my own stuff a long time and pretty much what everything I’ve ever worked on charges at. If it’s not snowing then I get off I’ll get out the meter and post a pic of the taco but it won’t be the first time and it charges at 14.5 to. I’m not trying to be difficult or anything just a little confused.

 

Cold start

 

Hate to quote myself, but the first sentence is key. When warm. Cold starts are 14.4-14.5V.

 

That 14.5 was after I had driven to work and was at idol in the parking lot.

 

I wouldn't trust the "voltmeter" on that little USB outlet thing very much

 

Take a multimeter, set it to DC, and when the truck is warm, check the voltage on the battery.