Frame rust, dealership shenans, and Saf-T-Cap install

Maybe it's just because you caught me before my coffee this morning, but I really have a hard time believing you know so much about my circumstances, preferences, and plans.

 

Or it could just be you. What's so hard with saying thanks but it's not something I'm interested in doing? People are just trying to help you out no reason to be a dick.

 

Here's what's currently up with the frame:

Wire wheel, zinc etch, and POR-15 from front cab mounts to rear spring mounts. Plating welded onto cab mounts on both sides:



Saf-T-Caps prepped and POR-15 inside and out as prep for welding. For some reason I didn't take a pic of them fully coated, but you get the idea I'm sure:


The manufacturer recommends cutting the bottom face off the frame before installing the Saf-T-Caps. Since the steel on mine was still pretty good, I decided to leave it in place. Fit was great even without cutting the frame.

Instead, after welding the full perimeter of the caps, I through-drilled the drainage hole in the bottom of the cap through the bottom of the frame, and welded a bead along the edge of the hole to allow drainage but keep anything from getting between the cap and the frame.

Since the cap and the frame are both POR-15'd, this should keep rust from building between the two.

(Photos coming later of installed Saf-T-Caps, I can't find them right now)

After install of the caps, the insides of the box frame sections were cleaned out with a chain flail and heavy coated with SEM cavity wax to protect them for at least this winter until I can POR in the spring/summer.

As part of installing the caps, I lifted the cab off the body to make room to weld the top edges.

While the thing was apart, body and rad mount bushings were replaced with Energy Suspension poly bushings from the full kit. No photos of the old (230k mile) factory bushings. They came out in gobs and pieces, and the truck rides so incredibly better with the new bushings that it's kind of hard to believe I didn't notice how bad it was before. 55mph feels like 35mph!

Also, Cali Raised trail sliders installed. It was required that I drill holes for the front mount bracket due to the Saf-T-Caps.

I located the holes by installing the sliders, then drilling through the brackets as a guide. The job was easy using a 1/4" aircraft bit for pilot holes and a 1/2" aircraft bit for sizing.

I did need to do a little fitting of the 1/2" holes with a small carbide burr and a Dremel for a clean fit. Paint and Amsoil HDMP applied liberally to exposed edges. Next time I work on the frame I will remove the sliders, then enlarge and weld the edges of the slider mount holes the same as the drainage hole mentioned above.

POR-15 on the inside faces of the slider brackets (and whatever half-cans of black rattlecan I had sitting around for a couple coats on the rest):

 

I used wool wax (similar to fluid film) to protect the frame over winter. How are you using the LIquid Wrench? I may need to add that to my anti-rust load out.

 

First off, sorry about all the trouble you are having. Maybe I missed it but can you share the dealership that is screwing you so we don’t go there, or at least DM me if relevant ( I am in NJ)

 

I just spray on and inside all of the critical areas. Here's what the inside of my boxed sections look like after 6 winters.

 

Hey man your trials and tribulations really suck big time.
You should of saved some of that cavity wax for what the dealer did to you

 

@DeepFriedTaco

 

haha I took a screenshot in your original post… I wonder if this would play nice with the wool wax or if I have to choose one.

Does it wash off easy, so far the wool wax is standing up to weather.

 

It goes on a little runny but thickens up over a couple of days. No it doesn't rinse off particularly easy.

 

wow. The original poster did a great job fixing a mess.
Me, I would find which law firm did the original lawsuit against Toyota and
make Toyota and the stealership pay and pay and pay. No fooling around.

 

OP here. Thanks. There really wasn't any money to be had except the money saved by taking it into my own hands and working quickly.

It would have come down to suing the dealership for their performance of the TSB. I couldn't have got a clean replacement of my truck for what would have been left after lawyers.

I just decided to move on and take care of it.

 

So when the dealership did the CRC on your truck did they spray it with that black tar like material?
They did my 2012 last year and all what I can see is that they applied white thick grease over the frame welding and joints and applied caps and plastic covers around the frame.

 

They quit doing the Noxudol coating shortly after I got mine done, because of the problems like mine.

 

My 2010 received the black tar in I believe 2018. Might have been 2019 but no later.

Noxudol is the black tar I presume..

 

Correct. I don't recall offhand which specific formulation, but mineral spirits and steel wool takes it off reasonably well.

 

Mine ended up rotting in April this year despite that application.

 

Sorry man about the whole situation. But you did a good job cleaning it and painting it.
What a mess. I don’t think Toyota are learning from it as I can already see rust on the 3rd gens frames.

 

Well, when I received the letter about the treatment. Initially, I didn’t want to take the truck to the dealer as I was already spraying it with fluid film every fall and it does not have rust. But it was mentioned in the letter that we have a deadline and if we don’t do the inspection and treatment it won’t covered in the future if the frame fails. So I was like good luck applying anything and I assumed that nothing is going to stick as mine was soaked with liquid film. And to my surprise, they only applied the greasy material on the joints and weldings.

 

I hadn't done anything prior, but if nothing else I wanted the coating b/c it extended the frame warranty..which it turns out I needed.