White Swan Disco Overland #landroveryo build

Stripped off the nasty peeling paint and shot some engine enamel on the valve covers while I had them out. Next up new filters for the injectors, coolant sensor, pcv hoses, spark plugs, plug wires, and more Idk I have a pile of stuff..

 

Looks familiar.

 

I don't have to go that far for a long while. With better care/maintenance than this thing has ever seen in the past.

 

Maintenance log: 202226 miles

• Valve Cover gaskets
• NGK (3764) BKR6EIX-11 Iridium IX Spark Plug
• Kingsborne IGN 790 8mm Spark Plug Wires
• TheInjectorShop new injector filters and seals
• New PCV hoses
• Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor Delphi TS10258
  
• Bypassed Throttle Body heater

• Cleaned Honda PCV mod
• Cleaned Throttle Body
• Cleaned caked on shit inside valve covers and rockers
• Flushed Crankcase with Berryman B12 as per instructions before changing oil
• Continued flush with new cheap 15w-40 diesel oil with Marvel Mystery Oil, run for a few hundred miles and change

Looks like the battery hasn't liked sitting being run low from whatever is still running in the background for months at a time. Trying to recoup it with my battery charger..

 

Yep, she's dead.. Let it run on the charger overnight, let it rest another overnight.. Go figure the warranty ended in July. Wop Wop.. The solar charger I got for TWSS will be handy to have for the next battery.

 

Those optional oil changes.... Keep up the progress!

 

Actually Advance said the battery was still under warranty and replaced it after letting it run on their charger overnight but only coming up to 200ca..

Got a new Drag Link, Tie rod, and steering stabilizer to fix the loose steering.



Turns out after some measuring to set the toe that theres something wrong with the rear axle.. So I got some new bushings on their way..

 

Also put new parking light bulbs(Philips 194 led) in the turn signal and headlight housings. Old v new

 

Prepping to fix the Thrust angle of the rear axle.. I assume the rubber bushings were factory. Putting in Terrafirma TF945 poly bushings. Harbor freight press made quick work of the rubber centers, the axle bushings had a fiber/plastic shell which came out easy. The chassis ends took a little more persuading from little Thor and eye gouger @Taco_life.

 

The axle end bushings went in smoothly, then I noticed the chassis end bushings have 2 different faces.. No instructions, no rover forum members care to respond(typical), not trying to pay international rates to call England.. So here's the response I got from emailing Terrafirma. Eddie(Terrafirma[Allmakes]) you didn't understand the assignment..

Me: This bushing is molded with 2 different ends, what is the proper orientation? One end has an inset for a washer, does this go to the inside or outside? TF1011 - RBX101730 Rear Radius Arm to Chassis bushes
Eddie(Terrafirma[Allmakes]): Thank you for your enquiry. There are 4 washers in the kit, I would suggest fitting a washer on either side of the bush as you install it onto the car. I hope this helps
Me: Is there an inside and outside face? *pics*
Eddie(Terrafirma[Allmakes]): No but I would fit the washer on the outside if there was no option.

 

Went from cupholder level German straight to American

 

Are those just 3d printed or?

Definately functional

 

Yep 3d printed in PLA+, not ideal for the heat in a car but very ideal for prototyping. They need something to help stabilize them on the inboard side and unfortunately that trim panel is aluminum so no magnets..
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5249552

 

203125 miles

After leaving some drips on my friends driveway I decided to tackle the next leaky thing, the front crank seal. Ordered some Corteco seals which shocking arrived the next day!
Took the pulley off, it's got a little groove on the snout. If the new seal doesn't seal it up I have a speedi-sleeve to put on it and an extra seal.
And finally made a tool to hold the pulley while I torque it back down to 200 ftlbs. Also made it double for the Tacoma too, I'll be doing that seal soon too.





3d printed a layout guide and went to @Blkvoodoo shop to use the drill press and plasma torch!

 

Getting rid of the slag and rough edge

 

#reference

The front driveshaft is RoversNorth PLD665:

Since that doesn't mean much for the centering ball, a quick google search says:
These are Jeep Style bolt/strap joint holders
DANA SPICER 211355X is a GREASEABLE centering yoke for use with 1310 ujoints.
https://www.danaaftermarket.com/spicer-automotive/automotive-driveshaft/components/part/double-cardan-cv-centering-yoke/211355X?partType=PART&catalog=PIMS_NA
DANA SPICER 211544X is a NON-GREASEABLE centering yoke for use with 1310 ujoints.
https://www.danaaftermarket.com/spicer-automotive/automotive-driveshaft/components/part/double-cardan-cv-centering-yoke/211544X?cat1=0&str=211544X&cp=0&catalog=PIMS_NA&partType=PART

Based on this LRforum thread, here are the right balls only https://landroverforums.com/forum/discovery-ii-18/centering-ball-kit-1310-front-driveshaft-51765/
Non-Greaseable, NEAPCO 7-0081NG, 404-0A Rockford
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p9...greaseable_double_cardan_ball_socket_rep.html
https://www.drivetrainamerica.com/404-0a-rockford-driveline-cv-ball-centering-kit-double-cardan/


Greaseable
https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p9...able_double_cardan_ball_socket_repair_ki.html

 

203345 Miles
Just finished fighting with the rear driveshaft ujoint.. Spicer says 5-3214x and 25-3214x both fit, nope.. While they are both 1300 series joints the gigantic grease fitting on the flat side of the cross does not clear the driveshaft or flange..

Spicer 5-4x is the correct joint but its been deemed obsolete.. Neapco, Duralast, PDQ 1-0005 fits (Made in China).

Also replaced the rotoflex coupler and rear pinion seal.



Now to make this less of a fight I want to convert the rear driveshaft flanges to 1310 series ujoints.. It looks like Spicer 2-2-459 companion flange and Spicer 2-82-58X 1310 1.375x16 yoke shaft would do it
https://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1534
http://www.driveshaftparts.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=1373
https://www.danaaftermarket.com/spi...LV&cat3=JT&cp=0&catalog=PIMS_NA&partType=PART

 

203395 Miles
New tires, new front wheel bearings... Still have this damn ticking noise.

 

203422 Miles
Finished up changing all the gear oil. Drained less than a quart out of the front.. Only got about 1.5qts back in(on a slope and its cold/raining). Both the front and rear diff had a decent amount of fine metal on the drain magnets, but there's no telling if those had EVER been cleaned off.

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pKIjZJCb_YA
https://youtu.be/8v4tkKdRuEw?t=336
https://youtu.be/3M2b_8ZCm3s