Warranty Claims;: Is this what I have to look forward to for 10 years/125k miles?

There's a sticky thread above that outlines one man trying to get a warranty claim using Magnuson Moss rules.
The case I alluded to was a friend of mine...
New Range Rover with 1200 miles. Electrical problem. They denied claim citing his phone charger did it. New module was $900. He chose to fight it citing they had to prove his charger was the culprit.


After 11 months of his SUV being quarantined (zero use) as the case made it's way through channels, he won his $900. It cost him north of $20K in lawyer fees and payments.
My point... You lose either way but one way is much less expensive even if it pisses you off more.
It's hard to celebrate winning a $900 judgement when it took $20K to achieve.

 

The victory must’ve had a value to your friend approximating the funds he spent…everyone has a different idea of what $20K would best be used for.

 

Your MS paint skills are spot on!
Now how do we get this on a tshirt?

 

I'm with you on this. It's an honest mistake to be made by many. Disconnecting the battery or pulling a fuse isn't a bad thing, but for a light swap it is a bit overkill. Nothing more than turning off the interior lights needed to be done. If wires were damaged or anything else of the like, reconnecting a battery or plugging in the fuse would've resulted in the same outcome.

 

Not exactly true. In most cases the refund will be applied to the principle to the lien holder. My crap dealership made me purchase the extended warranty and pre covered maintenance or they wouldnt sell me the truck, despite the paperwork saying I didnt have to. I wrote the company to avoid going back to the dealer and they sent the refunds for both to Toyota Financial.

 

Not sure what you mean. I ran a Toyota Service Department for a couple years. Tech's were paid only by wrench hours. Both warranty work and customer pay have wrench time they get for the most part, example if the book says it takes .6 of an hour and you take an hour to do it you still get paid the .6. Same if you do it in .2 you still get the .6 paid. However a ton of recall and warranty work pays WAY over the time allotment. I had techs begging for recalls. Tundra/sequoia frame sprays for example. Took no time to do and paid hours. Any advisor worth their salt knows how to get their tech paid well with warranty coverage. Example diag time, the warranty will pay for diagnostic time if you code it right when it gets sent to Toyota. The person however who takes the hit is the advisor. They get paid less for warranty vs customer pay work.

 

He has it to spend.

 

Disconnecting the battery would have prevented this. It seems like dome may be negative switched? He grounded a live circuit installing the bulb. This wouldn't have happened with the battery disconnected. This is on him 100%, not toyota, not some design defect.

 

Ahhhh so it’s the advisors who jerk us around then when at times it’s obvious warranty should cover but they try to make customers pay.

Customer states….Roof is leaking by third brake light……

Advisor advised customer….Due to aftermarket Husky floor mats roof leak not covered under warranty. Est cost of repair $900 + tax

I am exaggerating a bit here but those types of situations have been posted here.

 

Would a " marine battery " disconnect switch (or the style pictured) be a good idea to so as not to have to pull fuses or battery terminals?

 

what if they say i cannot cancel my warranty after i ask?

 

They can’t deny you canceling your extended warranty.

 

so call the local dealershit? or the one i purchased from?

 

Well, I owned the vehicle outright so they cut me a check directly. But yes, if you financed the extended warranty in with your car payment, you’ll still get the refund, it’ll just be applied to the principle amount that you owe on the loan instead of a direct check to you.

 

This is incredible in Paint. I've been in IT for 25 yrs and still can't make a decent diagram using mspaint. LOL.. Great Job!

 

Full disclosure, I started with the digital manual PDF image (found online) and then used black, white, and gray brushes to blot out the chin and labels. Pretty basic and sloppy...

 

Maybe things are done differently in your area, but around here, dealers only pay Techs 1/2 as much doing recall and warranty work then customer work! It's an hourly rate, but by the job! Probably Auto Corps since it's their money, don't allow as much time for a job, vs dealer charging custermers! Time is money!

 

I bought the extended warranty on my 2016 since it was the first year of the new model, and it just paid for itself when they found my timing cover leaking. Without the warranty, it would be probably $2000+ to fix at the dealer, but it is costing me $100 instead and they gave me no issues getting coverage approved for the repair.

 

You have a warranty and it still costs you something....?

 

Whoever the original warranty is through. You bought privately, meaning the warranty was transferred?

A new gasket on a timing cover is not even close to $2k and the labor for doing so should not have been either. The fact is that 10% actually benefit from these, meaning an entire engine rebuild or something serious where the cost of the parts far outweighs the cost of the warranty. Not the markup labor for a couple hundred dollar part - if that. 55% of people never use the warranty, and the rest of the 35% end up paying more for parts/labor than the warranty was. You are on your way to being a part of the 35% if not already. I've never seen an extended warranty cost more than $3-4k, but saying that $2k was worth the warranty for that one part? Not even close.