2nd gen Joying Head Unit Thread

I did the same with my truck, killed the battery. My 3yo daughter turned on my dome ligh without my knowledge. I took a break for the night and came out in the morning and the unit wasn't working. I was freaking out, I had it in pieces and was trying to figure what I did to cause this. Lol

 

Another awesome find! Installed my 9" yesterday and started playing around with it but was bummed I couldn't map any of my steering controls. Volume already worked fine, but song track buttons were reversed. Hope this works.

I've been through every page in this thread, but did anyone see info on adding a front camera like

$40 NATIKA Backup/Front View Camera,IP69K Waterproof Great Night Vision HD and Super Wide Angle Metal OEM Style Reverse Rear View Backup Camera for Cars Pickup Trucks SUVs RVs Vans (Black)

this that can be turned on with the head unit or a separate dash switch? Not sure it matters but I have a '13 with the rear camera in the mirror.

 

Weird my swc worked right out of the box

 

This is incredibly helpful. Where did you find this?

 

The panel key lights (the buttons on the left and right of the display) turn off when I turn off the headlights. Any way to keep them on all the time?

 

I don't remember hahaha. Either google search or a reddit thread

 

@adrenalinate did it work with the backup camera?

 

How did you remove the radio and vent dash assembly? Does that allow you to get to the four switches and cig lighters below that panel?

 

I wasn't hopeful, but connecting the "rear camera" RCAs didn't bring up the rear camera view while in reverse. This dude shows how to splice it in, but I'm guessing he's doing it on a 2014 or 2015. In the comments he says it'll work on a 2013 if it's the non-JBL. Not exactly sure why that matters but I am a 2013 WITH JBL. Video

 

Here you go...click here

 

Couple things that may have already been mentioned but might be helpful for new owners...

1. For steering wheel controls on my '13 with JBL, I had to leave CAN IN/CAN OUT attached, not CAN IN/KEY. To fix the song forward/back issue, I found an option to reverse previous and next in the Factory settings. I was also able to switch the temperature unit to F from C right below it.


2. AGAMA launcher is a nice interface for $3 (free version available). Lots of customization


3. Since the yellow factory clips were loose and easily popped off whenever I removed the head unit, I wrapped a thin layer of

$13 Gorilla Heavy Duty Double Sided Mounting Tape, Black Tape, 1" x 120" (Pack of 1) - Weatherproof for Indoor or Outdoor

Gorilla double-side mounting tape around each post of the dash kit before installing the clips. Made for a tighter fit into the dash and they no longer come off when removing the unit.

Still looking for info on how to display video from a front camera using the "REAR CAMERA IN" RCAs with a dash switch since I won't be using reverse as a tigger. Any info would be awesome!

 

I’m working with a 14 none jbl hoping the wolf or rca mod works if I bite.

 

I know how to do this using aftermarket cameras. Not sure about newer trucks that came with existing cameras. My truck is too old to have factory cameras or a can bus interface to the head unit. And no JBL either.

Anyway, It'll take me a few days to post photos and details, but I set up a manual camera switch in my dash that selects between 5 different cameras I installed around the truck, including one in the front skid that turned out to be super useful on my trip to Death Valley this week. It was nice not needing to climb out at each hill crest to see if I was about to crash into a boulder or fall off a hidden drop. Especially because it was raining more often than not.

However, be advised that the image quality with these RCA-connector cameras is pretty terrible. And in some lighting conditions, downright useless. Also, after only two days on the trail, one of my new cameras has already succumbed to water and mud. At $20 a pop, not a big deal, but I'll try harder to seal the next one with silicone. In its defense, I crashed it into very deep water many times. I just pulled up the carpet to dry.

In case I don't post my design soon enough to help, here's a crash course on what you need to do: The radio has a single RCA input for a video signal, and a single trigger wire that, when supplied with 12V power, will cause it to display the video signal on the screen. I believe that trigger wire is labelled "back," because normally you'd connect it to the reverse lights so it comes on when you're reversing. I agree with you, the automatic reverse camera is obnoxious, I prefer a manual switch. (Plus I have a separate high-def camera feed to my rear view "mirror," which is actually a full-time LCD screen instead of a mirror -- my bed contents block all rearward visibility.)

So what you want is a circuit that connects the desired camera signal to the RCA camera input plug on the wiring harness, and also sends 12V power to that camera, and finally connects 12V power to the "back" wire on the head unit. FYI: the camera video signal is the center pin of the RCA connector, usually the white wire in an aftermarket camera cable. The outer part of the RCA is signal ground, which you can simply connect to the outer RCA conductor on the head unit end. But don't use this conductor as the camera power ground -- connect the camera power ground to the chassis. Also: If you fail to connect a video signal while energizing the "back" wire, you'll get a black screen that says "no signal" or something similar. There are options in the settings, I forget where, but you can control whether and how much the volume decreases when displaying the camera video.

Last time around, with my prior android head unit, I came up with this complicated system of individual pushbuttons for each camera, using an arduino to deal with the logic and switch illumination. I scrapped it this time around because this turned out be a surprisingly terrible user interface -- I would have to look down at these little buttons and guide my stupid fat finger to the right one each time I wanted to switch on or off a camera. And I don't know if its the case with the Joying units, but my last head unit also wouldn't let you change the volume or do anything else when the video was on. It was super obnoxious -- especially for the reverse camera, which I had connected to the backup lights.

This time I used a rotary switch with a big knob, installed in the dash not far from my steering wheel. No fancy illumination and control logic necessary. I can reach this knob without looking, grasp it and click it to the right position by feel alone. It is remarkably better -- and simpler! But full disclosure, it was probably still a 10+ hour project, between designing the circuit board, soldering, connectorizing, and installing.

Hopefully you already found your answer, but basically, with the head unit removed, you just pull on the dash vent assembly and it pops out. But unfortunately to get to those lower buttons, you have to pull the center console and the lower dash covers. Which also requires removing the sill covers and kick panels. You can't access those buttons from above, at least on my truck.

 

According to Joying tech support, you have to wire the illumination wire to the acc wire. I was hoping for something in the settings. The one setting there is allows you to base the illumination on time (something like 6pm to 6am, I'm guessing) or the headlights.

I will say, their tech support has been pretty responsive over email.

 

Huge thanks for all this info along with offering to post your design. And nice job going the arduino route early on, but it does seem the rotary switch would be a easier option.

Just knowing that the back wire is my trigger vs just trying to use the "rear camera in" RCAs is a huge help.

I just ordered this camera to use as a dedicated switched front camera (mounted on grille for off-roading and tight garage parking lol):

$40 NATIKA Backup/Front View Camera,IP69K Waterproof Great Night Vision HD and Super Wide Angle Metal OEM Style Reverse Rear View Backup Camera for Cars Pickup Trucks SUVs RVs Vans (Black)

Natika I plan to wire it to this AOB Front Camera on-off switch . I've used their switches before but with higher amped accessories like an air compressor and lighting. Just need to figure out if I need to wire up a relay this time if I'm only looking for dash illumination.

Found this diagram buried in the product description that should work using the "back" wire as the trigger and wired to the AOB switch.

 

Another cool find...

Was hoping to get the Torque Pro app and my Wifi OBD2 adapter to work and after some poking around I figured it out.

1. Install Joying's Torque app from the OEM folder in File Manager (Torque Pro from Play Store won't work):


2. The go to Settings > Factory > turn on OBD


3. In Torque app, go to Settings > OBD2 Adapter Settings > Choose Connection > select Wifi.
4. Then go to main Wifi menu and connect to your OBD2 adapter. BAM!

Not sure if this will work with a bluetooth adapter since Joying has locked down some of its bluetooth capabilities.
This is the Amazon adapter I've been using for years with Dash Command on my iPhone.

 

Can you uninstall AGAMA? How easy is it to go back to the original launcher?

I found the yellow clips on Amazon, except they are white. But they work great.

$10 Rexka 30 pcs Switch Bezel Clip Compatible with Toyota Lexus 90467-10203 4Runner Camry Corolla Highlander Land Cruiser RAV4 Sienna Tundra CT200h GS350 GS450h IS250 LS460 etc

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07H87N1ZF?ie=UTF8

I also wished they shipped all the Tacoma units with a CANBUS adapter. I think that may be the only way to get the external temp.

 

It's really easy to uninstall any apps you download, including AGAMA. You can also easily switch between any launchers you've downloaded in the settings menu. Btw, having that list of passwords you shared the other day has been awesome. Thanks!

I've been assuming the red box is the CANBUS adapter?? If so, I have it, but my temp is always at 32F in the status bar. The temp on my AGAMA launcher seems more accurate, but I believe it's just local data, whereas the temp in my rearview mirror is external temp.

 

Check out my post above for more info, but here's the deal with switching launchers...

Once you download AGAMA, go to Settings>Device>Apps>Agama>Advanced>Home App>select Yes.
If you want to to back to the original launcher, go to Settings>General>scroll to the bottom and find Home Launcher Selection>choose com.android.launcher4.
You cannot reselect AGAMA here. You have to follow the first set of directions.

Hope this helps

 

I asked support about that, cause mine is always at 0*, and they said to download a weather app...I downloaded the one I've used for years but it still says 0 in the ho,e screen